I emailed ARP about the head studs that Car Customs pieces together regarding the torque specs and this is what I got in reply:
Matthew,
I have no idea what studs you have. I need to know the length of the
studs end to end, the diameter across the threads and what is stamped on
the top of the stud OR a stud part number. Get me that information and
I can get you a torque spec.
Regards,
Alan Nichols
Sales & Technical
Now I'm doing this to make 100% sure I torque the studs to what they recommend...I don't want to have to tear it all apart again. So if anyone has the specs on our head studs I'll reply to their email and then I will have a little piece of mind.
its 75 pounds (in three increments, this is important) IF (and please do, it makes a world of difference) you use their moly lube.
its 85 pounds (again in three increments) if you use straight up oil on the threads.
but for the of GOD make sure you use SOMETHING on the threads, if not they WILL back off. ive seen it happen....
Never used the lube, never backed off. Regardless 75lb in stepup increments.
FU Tuning
^^ really? did you use ANYTHING?
i used the ARP lube when i did mine......well worth it
RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...
im pretty sure the moly lube is very important for a proper tq reading
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R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
Is it the same as assembly lube?
Zs Z wrote:Is it the same as assembly lube?
hmm, maybe the stuff with graphite in it??? definitely not that lithium white stuff im pretty sure...
thats a good question.
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:its 75 pounds (in three increments, this is important) IF (and please do, it makes a world of difference) you use their moly lube.
its 85 pounds (again in three increments) if you use straight up oil on the threads.
but for the of GOD make sure you use SOMETHING on the threads, if not they WILL back off. ive seen it happen....
So as long as I use some kind of lubricant I will be ok? Don't necessarily have to use the ARP lube? So I am assuming the 3 increments you would go 25 ft/lbs on all of them, and then another 25 ft/bs and so on.
ARP moly lube is the only thing to use, don't use oil because it isn't consistent. My local engine builder told me that ARP moly lube has no real substitute.
I've read about inconsistent torque values on ARP's fasteners varying as much as 15 ft/lbs while using oil as a lube, and their moly lube maintaining as close as 2 ft/lbs. All test were done on breakaway torque readings.
long story short, USE ARP MOLY LUBE AND NOTHING ELSE for their fasteners. You can get the stuff from jegs or summit individually, last time I checked it wasn't all that expensive.
^ agreed.
john idk how your's never backed out but pauls did here recently and BAD. the head gasket never blew, no idea how but when he went back in to check the studs some of them were clear down to 20 foot pounds.
mathew... yup, 25's. id wait an hour between increments but thats just me. unsure on exactly how long you are supposed to wait.
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:^ agreed.
john idk how your's never backed out but pauls did here recently and BAD. the head gasket never blew, no idea how but when he went back in to check the studs some of them were clear down to 20 foot pounds.
mathew... yup, 25's. id wait an hour between increments but thats just me. unsure on exactly how long you are supposed to wait.
Never did, and do not see how it would. Using the washers they sent I do not see how things will loosen up.
FU Tuning
lol well like always you seem to be the exception to the rule
and hey im not saying it didnt happen to you man. im glad it worked for ya.
the extreme heat cycling of the aluminum can allow them to back off and and you should at least use motor oil and call them to get the correct specs. the lube/oil is used to get accurate torque readings. when you dont use oil/lube you get torque readings from the friction of the metals and not the real torque of the stud.
and when using only motor oil it probably seems high because there is more friction using the oil than using the lube they're supposed to send, so they compensate for the friction by having you torque them to a higher setting.
straight from the horse's mouth...
www.arp-bolts.com wrote:Always lubricate the fasteners prior to applying torque to ensure accurate readings.
i'm sure ARP knows what they're saying, and i'd trust them. might as well do it to their specs and not have to worry about over/under tightening.
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:lol well like always you seem to be the exception to the rule and hey im not saying it didnt happen to you man. im glad it worked for ya.
the extreme heat cycling of the aluminum can allow them to back off and and you should at least use motor oil and call them to get the correct specs. the lube/oil is used to get accurate torque readings. when you dont use oil/lube you get torque readings from the friction of the metals and not the real torque of the stud.
and when using only motor oil it probably seems high because there is more friction using the oil than using the lube they're supposed to send, so they compensate for the friction by having you torque them to a higher setting.
straight from the horse's mouth...
www.arp-bolts.com wrote:Always lubricate the fasteners prior to applying torque to ensure accurate readings.
i'm sure ARP knows what they're saying, and i'd trust them. might as well do it to their specs and not have to worry about over/under tightening.
Back when I did it, we did it per ARP. I order the studs directly from them and used the specs they told us to use. Of course this was back in 03.
FU Tuning
Well hoping I can get get some moly lube from the local shop that built my motor if not I will use a decent oil...thanks for the info guys. I can't wait to get them torqued properly so I can run the car hard again.
As I mentioned in PM's, 85ftlb. Glad Brad mentioned 3 encriments because I forgot about that.
Also, ARP SHOULD of sent you some ARP lube with the studs, did they not?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
The motor was assembled two years ago and I don't think I got any leftovers back. But I'm thinking they may have some in stock as they are an engine shop. I'm gonna call tomorrow and see if they have any.
Well I guess they have some moly lube so I am going to pick some up. I'm assuming to just do the OEM torque pattern on the studs? I've been driving the car for a few days and its working fine out of boost (hit boost a few times and no issues as well) but not sure if I should get a new head gasket or not. The fact that the car is not leaking now makes me thing the gasket is ok or else it would still be smoking.
