Anyone using the ZZP 78lb valve springs? Also is it possible to swap the valve springs without pulling the head? I have the cam install tool.

Yes, two people here ran them and both had one snap on them. I would go supertech instead, much more reliable.

Yes you can do valve springs without pulling the head, you can use compressed air to hold up the valves while you are removing the springs. Pull spark plug and use a compression tester air line hooked up to an air compressor.

You don't need the cam tool, timing an ecotec is dead easy, but it does make the job that much easier.

Alright thanks was deciding between the supertech and those knew the supertech were good just didn't remember reading about anyone using the zzp ones. Might have to go to a friends for this install since I don't have an air compressor and really don't feel like pulling the head.

I saw some thread mentioned that there is a tool to allow you to replace the springs with out worrying about the valve falling anyone know anything about that?

ok I have gotten ahold of the cam install tool and the valve spring compressor that was a GM tool for the ecotec so I should be able to swap springs with the head on. Any tips or pointers from anyone who has done this before? I am sure my friend and I can figure it out but a general idea would be much appreciated mostly on the valve springs I have a good write up on the cams using the tool.

Dont drop a keeper and alittle grease can help keep them in control.




its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa

When you did it was it using the GM valve spring compressor with the head still on the block?

I havent done them yet. I was just going to, but decided that i'd just install them on my spare head after it gets ported and i'll just step up to a larger supercharger for a power gain this summer.




its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa

ahh alright maybe someone will chime in who has done it with the engine still in the car.

As mentioned, stay away from the zzp springs, ESPECIALLY if you are running higher lift cams. The supertech 78lb kit will handle all of our typical off the shelf grinds and higher rpm needs.

The problem you may run into occurs if you are not using compressed air to keep the valves closed. Without compressed air, all that holds the valve in place is the valve stem seal. So, if that is worn, it may just fall in the cylinder. Then you are stuck pulling the head. I attempted to change valve stem seals with the head on the block and it was a waste of time without compressed air.

yellow cavy (s/c L61) wrote:ok I have gotten ahold of the cam install tool and the valve spring compressor that was a GM tool for the ecotec so I should be able to swap springs with the head on.

Would you be so kind as to post the part number for that GM tool, and maybe also a pic?

We also recommend and use the Supertech springs. Great company, excellent engineering, wonderful attention to detail.



Bill Hahn Jr.
Hahn RaceCraft

World's Quickest and Fastest Street J-Bodies
Turbocharging GM FWD's since 1988
www.turbosystem.com

Yea I am definitely going with the supertechs. I have access to an air compressor just not at my house so I guess I will go to my parents or a friends for this install.

KENT MOORE J-43655 is the cam tool

KENT MOORE J-43649 is the valve spring tool

I don't have any pics I could take some when I get home, but if you search the internet for those parts you should see some pictures from ebay/etc. Or you can look them up on the kent moore site.

I did my springs without removing the head, mind you the motor was out of the car at the time to do the balance shaft delete.

I just turned the motor to TDC of whatever cylinder I was swaping the springs on, then I had my buddy use a set of long needle nose plyers to grab the stem through the port and hold it up when I put the new one on.

Worked like a champ! The valve only drops maybe a 1/4 inch or so if the piston is all the way up.

It does require removing the intake manifold and exhaust manifold however but it is 100% fail proof, plus it was actually a bit faster than having to run the air.


FYI if you are using compressed air, MAKE SURE the motor is at either TDC or BDC, we did my buddies motor using compressed air and the cam tool and the PSI of compressed air required to hold the valve up ended up turning the motor over and snapping one of the tabs off the cam tool. (we didn't have the motor at TDC or BDC cause we are idiots...lol)

^^^ live and learn eh dave LOL

i modified an OHC valve spring tool (looks like a gun kinda) to compress the springs, used it on newts car aswell. cost 30$ from a local tool store.

i agree with whats been said about zzp springs. i bought a set and one snapped 500km into use. left my car stuck out of town for 3 weeks while they shipped me a new one. luckily (i have no idea how...) but my motor didnt grenade and i was able to just replace the spring and carry on. when i replaced it, i didnt use compressed air either, i simply brought the effected cylinder to TDC and changed the spring. while at TDC the valve can only drop about 1/8 of an inch. air works good tho to keep em up and tight




14.04 @ 101 ALLMOTOR

found a pic of the tool i bought...i removed the lower "grip". the remaning one would attach under the bosses surrounding the spark plug tower in the head. then just compress the spring. worked like a charm.






14.04 @ 101 ALLMOTOR

Wow, its nice I ran across this because I was going to drop some loot on the ZZP's... That fricking sucks, I knew the price was to good to be true


had a blown ecotec swapped 2000 cavy, now just an 02 Grand Am, and a 74 BMW 2002...