What is the most power at the wheels that has been put out of a LN2(2200 or non-eco 2.2) engine? And best time slips at the 1/8th or 1/4 mile. Just curious to see what has been done.
13.1 sec in a 1/4 mile by byron years ago i can remember.
heres a post from a while back.... in bold are some answers you prob are lookin for...
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Re: LN2 build.....
Saturday, January 19, 2008 1:18 PM
JerseyJayLN2 (Scarab)
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Yeah, if you searched, you didn't do a very thorough one... there's threads about this right on the first page of this forum.... Notec gave you another very good thread to start with as well
If you want to go NA, remember that the keys to building power are portwork (probably the biggest chokepoint of the entire engine is the stock head), cam selection (second biggest choke), and compression.
Patriot Performance has a very reasonably priced CNC-ported 2200 head, but unfortunately they do not provide any valvetrain support for the LN2 like they do the Ecotec. The links in the post that Notec linked you to will help with that.
You also have the option of pulling your head, or purchasing a spare from the junkyard, and bringing it to a local machine shop to have it ported. Make sure however, that you ask around about shops and really shop around before you invest with one. Make sure they have a flowbench, or access to one, and make sure they are willing to give you the before and after flow sheet to verify that they've actually improved the flow of your head. While the Patriot piece gets pretty good flow numbers, I have a gut feeling that an experienced porter will be able to extract even more.
As Notec pointed out, you also have the option of attempting to port the head yourself. There are some obvious targets and impediments to flow that even amateurs like us can find and remove, and if you do a google search on "head porting" or "standard abrasives" you will find a few good writeups on what to look for. However, since the majority of us don't have a flow bench in our home garage, you may be limited to marginal gains since you can't actually verify that what you're doing is improving flow or not, or by how much. I'm not saying not to try it (hell, 2200 parts are cheap and plentiful), but you should be aware of these things before undertaking the operation.
One of the key's to unlocking power is to move your peak torque higher in the RPM band. This is accomplished through camshaft selection, and I won't pretend to be well versed enough on the topic to instruct you there. Keep an eye out for threads and posts by MadJack, as he is the reigning cam guru around these parts. Also keep in mind that more RPM means the need for a revised valvetrain, stiffer valvesprings, better rockers, possibly stiffer and/or different sized pushrods, and modified lifters (see SlowOleJ's LN2/LT1 lifter hybrids) to prevent valve float.
140whp is certainly attainable NA on this engine, and you most likely don't even have to touch the majority of the valvetrain to do it (not that it would hurt). Nitrous Nate made I believe 130whp and 143 lbs/ft of torque on a 10:1 compression, ported head build with a stock cam, stock sized valves, and stock valvetrain. A cam, depending on its configuration, can easily net 10-20 more hp, possibly more depending on how wild you're willing to go.
There are other examples of NA contenders, like Byron who ran deep into the 13's in an NA full drag sunfire. By backward calculating using his car's weight and trap speed, he was making in the somewhere between 170-190 wheel hp. Scrufdog (who's car now belongs to one of my fellow members of Jersey GM) was making 170ish whp NA as well. Both of those cars were before the advent of HPT, and Scrufs car at least, had quite a few things limiting it (like using a ported stock exhaust manifold). Both cars were also 3 speed automatics. Figure on 190-200 hp at the wheels had they been stick cars.
We've so far seen a stock LN2 bottom end hold up to 244 whp, and whisperings of even higher than that, turbocharged. The problem with predicting durability is that RPM is often more to blame on engine failure than power is. Now, 140 is probably well attainable within the realm of the stock rev limiter, but as you start to go higher than that things will fail faster if not properly squared away. Since you'll have the motor apart anyway, my advice to you is that if your budget allows, pick up forged pistons and rods as well, rather than shaving the block or head to attain a higher static compression ratio. Have the entire bottom end balanced by a machine shop before reassembly. Not only will you have a stronger, more reliable engine, but the forged parts will be lighter than stock and will help to free up even more power. If you're operating on a stricter budget, however, I am not saying that I believe Notec's suggestion to shave the head/block is unsafe or a bad idea, and it does certainly come cheaper than a fully built and balanced bottom end. My personal preference however is to build as well as possible as long as you can afford it.
Well, i was supposed to be asleep an hour ago so that i can be back at work tonight, so I'm going to end this here. Good luck and hope that helps!
scruff did 13.9 @ 97 mph if i remember right....
http://cavy.scrufdog.com/mycav.html
sadly, theres not many people around anymore that actually set goals then achieve em, and shut people up on forums who sit around and say "YOU CANT DO THAAAAT" and have never bothered to try.
Well atleast there are still some out there. I like keeping it old school. Of coarse you can get easy power from the ohc motors but i like a challenge.
Where is Ryan and his 400+whp LN2?
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
Tinkles wrote:Where is Ryan and his 400+whp LN2?
I'm right here...... WHP is in my sig, and there is a dynosheet somewhere on here too.... As for track times, the car is not track legal so I have no clue....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
No door handles=doesnt pass saftey inspection
Well that sucks. maybe rig up a hide away door handle like they do licence plates lol.
MadJack wrote:The purpose of door handles is so the track safety personnel can open the door. If you have hide away door handles, how are the track safety crew going to know where they are at?
I doubt Ryan is willing to do this, but the best option for a smooth look and be legal at the track is a flush mount Beretta door handle.
I actually thought of doing something similar, but using the Viper GTS Openers. I'm pretty sure I could make it pass that way, but those things are very pricey! The way the handle/button is integrated into the lock assembly is pretty cool!
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
GTR handles
And part numbers in case anyone is interested, this is just the mechanism not the trim panel.
Left - 80607JF00D
Right - 80606JF00D
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, December 29, 2010 8:30 AM
I <3 JGM
I think bigfoot is blurry,
that's the problem. It's not the photographer's fault. Bigfoot is blurry. And that's extra
scary to me. There's a large, out-of-focus monster, roaming the countryside.
"Run! He's fuzzy!" "Get outta here!"
In Loving Memory of Phil Martin December 14 2005
The problem with both of those are they would require me to repaint the doors right where the Kandy is laid. If I had to repaint the Kandy, I would just repaint the whole car as matching Kandy (let alone Kandy that was sprayed over 6 years ago) would be more than a b!tch to match/blend.
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
or just come to a track that is a private rental and run the car because they will let you
no idea where you can do that or the exact date you can either
Funky Bottoms (Event) wrote:scruff did 13.9 @ 97 mph if i remember right.... http://cavy.scrufdog.com/mycav.html
sadly, theres not many people around anymore that actually set goals then achieve em, and shut people up on forums who sit around and say "YOU CANT DO THAAAAT" and have never bothered to try.
Anyone remember how exactly mode (4-cyl, 6-cyl...) he had the MSD 6A boxes setup in? I have one & I know I can get another for practically a "give-away" price, so this is an option to me since I doubt I'll ever really have the money for a DIS-2 to spare... and I can't wait to see what improvements I'd gain from duplicating Scruffy's setup, only with MSD HVC-II Blue coils.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
i would say jus bring it to quaker they pass just a bout anythng but the track just sold and has new onwers and idk what tech will be like this year lol
holy crap, all kindsa old schoolers in here.
Ryan, rent a track, get a slip, and post the fukker. If the track you rent is by me......well both get slips
to answer the origional question, there is a good top hp thread....as well as best 1/4 times thread in the racing forum that has this info for all the engines and models.
i know the hp one breaks it down into N/A, charger, and turbo categories.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, January 09, 2011 1:36 PM
stock door handle with a magnet on the back of it, now your track legal, unless the actually pull on it.
Dave De Stefano wrote:Spencer wrote:stock door handle with a magnet on the back of it, now your track legal, unless the actually pull on it.
hahahahahaha
That's great!! Thanks for the laugh. Why not Velcro?
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NCR-SCCA
cuz fuzzy squares left on your door are not stylin'
