Ok so i plan on swapping a new engine in with a turbo so i know i need to upgrade my brakes for sure, a rear disc swap but not sure what else is needed itll be around 400 whp so could anyone else tell me what i need to do so i don't wrap my self around a tree
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3364129
Don't forget suspension, and with that means upgrade EVERYTHING suspension wise on your J lol. Grab some 12" Wilwoods for the front brakes and you should be fine.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
No they wont. You wont wrap yourself around a tree if you arent stupid on the street. I knows theres at least on guy on here with 500+ hp and stock suspension besides being lowered.
Id say lower it with some good stuff (you dont need Tein. Just something like Pro-Kit on AGXs would do.) and do sway bars. Thatll give you a car with some decent control for the track. But the GA CAs and poly bushings will help with wheel hop on a launch.
fexican wrote:will the 12" wil woods fit under 14 in stockers? also when should i start to worry about buliding my trans (4 spd auto 01(2.2))
They probably won't fit. I think you need a 16" rim for it to fit? Someone else who knows more chime in please...
You don't need to get crazy and swap to different CA's and stuff if you don't want to. But good coil-overs and a decent set of sway bars and strut bars will do you just fine. When I first read this suspension was my primary concern as well.
"In Oldskool we trust"
He doesn't have to worry a lot about massive wheelhop, he's an auto
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
ok atleast im one the right page, and im just gonna go over board with tien ss and edfc cuz i have the extra cash and i like the way they ride. hmm so ga ca is kinda prefence since im auto =) might just do it since ill be carless for a few days lol. what would be another option for something in a big brake kit to find under 14's ?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3364129
At least do the POLY busings for your CA's. That will help, I have those in my car. I also have the Tein Basics and LOOVE them. If I ever part out my car, those bad boys are staying in the car.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
fexican wrote:ok atleast im one the right page, and im just gonna go over board with tien ss and edfc cuz i have the extra cash and i like the way they ride. hmm so ga ca is kinda prefence since im auto =) might just do it since ill be carless for a few days lol. what would be another option for something in a big brake kit to find under 14's ?
Big brakes wont fit under 14s. My stocks barely fit behind my stock 14s. Look through the holes in the steelies and youll see what I mean. Theres a kit that OEM makes that will fit behind an LSS wheel but as far as I know that is the only one. Youll have to go 17s or bigger for big brakes.
u asked about your transmission and i can't remember what the exact whp number is but i wouldn't put 400whp on an all stock tranny. u'll also need to look into a diff intake manifold.
Everyone forgets the chassis.
If the chassis is flexing like a rubber band, you can't get the power to the ground.
Front (Gm's vert bar with two firewall holes or 4 point strut bar) and rear (RKSport is the best with 4pt trunk cage setup based on this bar and caddy trunk bar) strut bars and I'd highly recommend TTR's K-brace as well.
Hit the junkyard for the caddy strut bar to make your trunk brace to close up the rear frame rails for added rigidity.
Once the chassis is set you can then concentrate on the brakes and suspension.
Most top tuners tweak the chassis first and then worry about the other things when it comes to their builds.
If you want to go one step further, seam weld or stitch weld the seams so you don't have to worry about a roll cage for extra stiffening of the chassis.
And there are rims with 16 inch size that will fit the Wilwood setup. Nexo's are one and I'm sure there are others so don't hesitate with using 16's if you know they're going to fit.
Good luck with it.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
Misnblu wrote:Everyone forgets the chassis.
If the chassis is flexing like a rubber band, you can't get the power to the ground.
Front (Gm's vert bar with two firewall holes or 4 point strut bar) and rear (RKSport is the best with 4pt trunk cage setup based on this bar and caddy trunk bar) strut bars and I'd highly recommend TTR's K-brace as well.
Hit the junkyard for the caddy strut bar to make your trunk brace to close up the rear frame rails for added rigidity.
Once the chassis is set you can then concentrate on the brakes and suspension.
Most top tuners tweak the chassis first and then worry about the other things when it comes to their builds.
If you want to go one step further, seam weld or stitch weld the seams so you don't have to worry about a roll cage for extra stiffening of the chassis.
And there are rims with 16 inch size that will fit the Wilwood setup. Nexo's are one and I'm sure there are others so don't hesitate with using 16's if you know they're going to fit.
Good luck with it.
the guy i was waiting for!
i already have front rear and trunk brace, cant do a k brace cuz im a 2200 =(. now would big brakes be amust or could i get around it with the rear swap and doing some form of better calipers(is there even any in a stock size?) and better pads?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3364129
Before I did the big brake upgrade on the 'blu, I had a pretty good setup which worked quite well.
Get some good rotors like the EBC's, the PowerSlot rotors or something like the Baers.
Once you have the rotors, get some good pads like the Hawks, EBC in either red or green, or I liked the Bendix Titanium series which any of these will outperform anything that the factory could conceive.
Get some stainless steel lines for the fronts at least. You can get these at Summit, Jegs, RKSport or have them custom done with the proper adapters.
Last, change your brake fluid to Dot4 which has a higher boil point than the stock Dot3.
If the caliper are the original calipers and are more than 5 years old, replace them with new or rebuilt units. Being new or rebuilt, you can paint them alot easier if you choose since there's no rust on them for you to have to remove.
Plus you'll not have to worry about them again for another 5 years and will provide some reliability too.
That's all you'll need to have some really good brakes that will hold under most power adders like turbo's or supercharging the car.
This was pretty much my setup and I never had an issue with stopping power. I actually marveled at how good the near stock setup would be once you change out the components.
Redo your rear drums and buy new drums. They're cheap so do it.
New shoes and don't forget the new hardware that makes them work properly and you'll be set on some good performing brakes that not only looks good, are more reliable than stock, but will stop in pretty much any application including the emergency stops which happen from time to time.
Hope this helps and sorry for the book.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Ok now the for the rotors just new stockers? defiantly planed on swapin out rears for discs and going stainless braided all around =) and thank you for the book imma publish it =P
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3364129
Yup, new stockers but get something that's at least slotted, and aftermarket would be best. The companies that I mentioned I'm sure the everyone will vouch for.
On the tranny, they make an actual valve body kit that will makes your shifts firmer and provide less wear on the tranny too.
Also do the tcc solenoid mod that's out there so you'll never have the issues that some have had with the torque converter clutch solenoid locking up giving issues with stalling and other problems with shifting from 3-4. I've had this issue but resolved it the way I always do by making some modifications which worked.
Please make sure that you have some kind of tranny mounts like TTR had on their site some time ago and were quite popular also. You'll need this to keep things nice and tight for all the torque going to the wheels and not into chassis flex.
They also make some higher hp rated axles for the 4t40e tranny too and I believe Phantom Grip makes an LSD for the tranny too. You'll need this to get the power to both wheels instead of just burning the rubber on the other.
It depends on how much you want to spend and put into your ride but the cost is beneficial in the longevity of the ride when you start talking 400whp.
Look at the builds of cars like Skilz, Imphat, and SpeedRacerZ to see what they did to keep their cars from exploding etc. You can gain alot of information by just analyzing their builds and what they put into them.
I've got everyone of their builds in my computer for future use since at one time or another I was going for a turbo setup but am going M45 instead.
I've put 10K into my car and that hasn't even counted money for the engine build and tranny swap along with the tranny build too.
It costs to go fast and that's one of the reasons I've slowed down with the money for the 'blu since it's so expensive and the fact that I wanted something with rwd and a good chassis balance, hence the Porsche.
Again, good luck.
You're on the right track and remember that you don't have to have 400hp to the wheels to have fun with your ride.
If drag racing is all your going to do then that's fine but for the street, a good all around build is what's needed to daily drive, and have the most fun with the car for all things.
Damn, there's another book.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
Misnblu wrote:Everyone forgets the chassis.
If the chassis is flexing like a rubber band, you can't get the power to the ground.
Front (Gm's vert bar with two firewall holes or 4 point strut bar) and rear (RKSport is the best with 4pt trunk cage setup based on this bar and caddy trunk bar) strut bars and I'd highly recommend TTR's K-brace as well.
Hit the junkyard for the caddy strut bar to make your trunk brace to close up the rear frame rails for added rigidity.
Once the chassis is set you can then concentrate on the brakes and suspension.
Most top tuners tweak the chassis first and then worry about the other things when it comes to their builds.
If you want to go one step further, seam weld or stitch weld the seams so you don't have to worry about a roll cage for extra stiffening of the chassis.
And there are rims with 16 inch size that will fit the Wilwood setup. Nexo's are one and I'm sure there are others so don't hesitate with using 16's if you know they're going to fit.
Good luck with it.
Thanks!
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
Misnblu wrote:Yup, new stockers but get something that's at least slotted, and aftermarket would be best. The companies that I mentioned I'm sure the everyone will vouch for.
On the tranny, they make an actual valve body kit that will makes your shifts firmer and provide less wear on the tranny too.
Also do the tcc solenoid mod that's out there so you'll never have the issues that some have had with the torque converter clutch solenoid locking up giving issues with stalling and other problems with shifting from 3-4. I've had this issue but resolved it the way I always do by making some modifications which worked.
Please make sure that you have some kind of tranny mounts like TTR had on their site some time ago and were quite popular also. You'll need this to keep things nice and tight for all the torque going to the wheels and not into chassis flex.
They also make some higher hp rated axles for the 4t40e tranny too and I believe Phantom Grip makes an LSD for the tranny too. You'll need this to get the power to both wheels instead of just burning the rubber on the other.
It depends on how much you want to spend and put into your ride but the cost is beneficial in the longevity of the ride when you start talking 400whp.
Look at the builds of cars like Skilz, Imphat, and SpeedRacerZ to see what they did to keep their cars from exploding etc. You can gain alot of information by just analyzing their builds and what they put into them.
I've got everyone of their builds in my computer for future use since at one time or another I was going for a turbo setup but am going M45 instead.
I've put 10K into my car and that hasn't even counted money for the engine build and tranny swap along with the tranny build too.
It costs to go fast and that's one of the reasons I've slowed down with the money for the 'blu since it's so expensive and the fact that I wanted something with rwd and a good chassis balance, hence the Porsche.
Again, good luck.
You're on the right track and remember that you don't have to have 400hp to the wheels to have fun with your ride.
If drag racing is all your going to do then that's fine but for the street, a good all around build is what's needed to daily drive, and have the most fun with the car for all things.
Damn, there's another book.
Still carry them.
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
Misnblu wrote:Aaron, you know I always give credit where it's due.
Thanks.
Just noticed you have been here since 1999
I was late 1999 also... Long time!
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
Yeah, I don't know what it is with the Jbody but I'm still in love with it.
It isn't a perfect platform but you can sure tweak it out to it's max potential.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
