Dyno, first pull 167 WHP 172 FtLb Torque -- pulled in third gear
second pull 151 WHP 162 FtLb Torque --- pulled in fourth gear
third pull 153 WHP 163 FtLb Torque --- pulled in fourth gear
the car has only been tuned for fuel trim to get the car running and driveable... so im basically still on a base tune
HP Seemed to level off at 5100 RPM
Governor kicked in at 5800 RPM
hp dropped only slightly from 5100 - 5800 RPM
at idle, ignition timing can bounce between 0 degrees and 21 degrees
long term fuel trim is at -20.3 %
Wideband reads around 14.7 AFR normal, 10.8 AFR at WOT under 2500 RPM and 12.2 AFR above 2500 RPM
I still need to:
* Fix knock sensor CIRCUIT phantom code that appears every few days
* Fix Fontana spacer so that the HO Mani seats the head correctly (its a little lower than it should)
* wire up the cutout
* Get fully tuned
Theorys so far: (but will remain theories until full tune)
-Theory of why HP leveled off at 5100 RPM: The gasket match porting of the head is not enough porting for the .430 .222 cams i have
-The intake mani transition issue could be also playing in to that with the cams
Any other suggestions
what to expect when your expecting? a swift kick in the ass.
get her tuned!
Underdog Racing
Fix the KS and get a good tune. I bet the KS issue is playing with the computer a lot.
damn.
weren't you hoping for 200+?
yeah ... but there are issues...
i think i am going to pull up the electrical schematic for the ECM and replace the knock sensor wires from there to the sensor, since i think it would be more hell to tear the harness apart and find the shorted wire...
pm me the link for said ECM schematic!
Underdog Racing
brad: im going to start with alldata... as long as i know colors of wires from ecm to sensor, i should be good
if all data is no good, i'll go next door to chevrolet and ask for the electrical shop manual
Yeah,
Tune,
And REALLY make sure those ports with your HO mani are lined up right.
As good as the spacers are, they do lengthen the runners, and add and extra 'gap' (from the spacer to the HO mani).
I've had issues with different spacers that have come and gone.
So, check to make sure everything is nice and tight.
-M
(there is a nice HO mani for sale in the classifieds)
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
how would the length of runners affect... like whats the difference between longer and stock?
i have the fontana spacer on now, i also have an OEM spacer here... its a lot thinner and the ports need to be ported out a bit to work... but would shorten the amount i'm adding to the runner...
also Clyde is a freakin genious... 4th gear + 5800 RPM = 107 MPH = governor... that answers why on the dyno i limit at 5800 and on the road it hits 6500 and then slowly climbs (still trying to figure that out in the tune, it bounces off the governor and climbs
Runner length and diameter are critical to engine tuning. In its simplest form, the intake manifold is a Helmholtz resonator. For the same harmonic pulse for a higher rpm requires a shorter runner length. However, an extra 1/2" length onto the HO manifold isn't going to do much to flatten out the powerband at 5100 rpm. The issue is either in the transition flange or more than likely the tune.
I have no signiture
wow it sounds really weak on the dyno.... get a tune!
Underdog Racing
Speedline (No more) (GME Chat) wrote:
Wideband reads around 14.7 AFR normal, 10.8 AFR at WOT under 2500 RPM and 12.2 AFR above 2500 RPM
I still need to:
* Fix knock sensor CIRCUIT phantom code that appears every few days
* Fix Fontana spacer so that the HO Mani seats the head correctly (its a little lower than it should)
* wire up the cutout
* Get fully tuned
Theorys so far: (but will remain theories until full tune)
-Theory of why HP leveled off at 5100 RPM: The gasket match porting of the head is not enough porting for the .430 .222 cams i have
-The intake mani transition issue could be also playing in to that with the cams
Any other suggestions
Nuff said. She's too rich. Get you knock sensor issues straightened out and lean her to 13.0-13.5:1 and make sure she's not knocking.
All this time before the dyno how come she wasnt fully tuned then?
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
I thought you were dyno tuning it not just running it
This thing needs tuning bad.
I <3 JGM
I think bigfoot is blurry,
that's the problem. It's not the photographer's fault. Bigfoot is blurry. And that's extra
scary to me. There's a large, out-of-focus monster, roaming the countryside.
"Run! He's fuzzy!" "Get outta here!"
In Loving Memory of Phil Martin December 14 2005
the bigger the mods and extraordinary things done to the motor the more tuning it needs!
i cant believe it even runs with those .430's.
Underdog Racing
z yaaaa wrote:the bigger the mods and extraordinary things done to the motor the more tuning it needs!
i cant believe it even runs with those .430's.
I believe he got a rough tune to get it streetable.
I agree with what was said above...lean it out some. My engine was a dog until i raised the afr to 12.8. Im still going to see how it reacts to leaner conditions. I know your engine has 200 plus whp in it once the issues are worked out.
If I had a flow sheet for the head I could tell you almost exactly how much power it should make.
Get it properly tuned and then see what it makes tho....sounds like it might just need some more tuning.
TUNE THAT BITCH!.....and lean her out.
I agree it does sound kinda weak in the higher RPM's.
Here was my last dyno run, for reference. Just disregard the downshift to 2nd when I mashed the gas. I hit the speed limiter at 5800.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
z yaaaa wrote:the bigger the mods and extraordinary things done to the motor the more tuning it needs!
i cant believe it even runs with those .430's.
Stock GMPP S/C ran okay with those cams.
It sounded amazing at 7500 RPM as well.
well this east coast rain storm thing delayed me from fixing the knock issue...
i assume the symbol before the connector to the knock sensor is shielded wire, correct?
Also... another thing i noticed is that when the car is cold, and im at a stoplight, sometimes the car feels like its misfiring, and the the Wideband reads lean past max (shows ----)... When its doing this, at low RPMs the car wants to jerk while its moving in gear... if i accelerate, it launches on me and usually spins tires.. (so i have to quickly shift in to second/third) to keep traction and not take off...
ideas?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, September 30, 2010 4:22 PM
- Attachments
- knock.gif (10k)
now... teach me how to see what i am looking at. i is noob.
Underdog Racing
The loop symbol is either a shield wire or it's to represent a tight coupling between the two wires (i.e. twisted pair, coax, etc).
I have no signiture
z yaaaa wrote:now... teach me how to see what i am looking at. i is noob.
You are looking at the KS signal circuit.
PCM connector C1 (blue)
pin 32-low reference (ground)
pin 34-KS signal
Pin 32 (circuit 1716) has a gray 0.35mm wire
Pin 34 (circuit 496) has a dark blue 0.35mm wire
Both wires go through pass through P100 (no clue where this is)
At connector ??? circuit 496 becomes circuit 345 with a white 0.5mm wire (pin A on connector)
At connector ??? circuit 1716 becomes circuit 345 with a red 0.5mm wire (pin B on connector)
