before i start looking the universal route, does anyone know of any product company that produces an exhaust piping kit in 2.5" with mandrel bends for the LD9/2000 Z24.
thanks!!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, June 14, 2010 7:40 AM
Custom tubes sells the 2.5 inch mandrel bent cat back with no muffler but you have to call or email and ask for it because its not listed on the site.
^^^ yep, that or atomic.
be sure to ask special for aluminum piping
180hp in 1989 or 145hp in 2002, you decide. >
is it a cat back or a resinator back? i only need the piping, i have the cat i want to use and im getting the resinator i want...
i also assume i could run a straight 2.5" pipe from the header to cat... correct?
I emailed willycustomtubes@comcast.net from Custom Tubes Inc about getting a 2.5" set up for my 01 2200 cav shipped to 28560. The total quoted for me was $150+$35 shipped. I was told the tubes come with hangers. Send him an email and ask.
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NCR-SCCA
kteller has a few different sizes listed...I think 2 1/4, 2 1/2 and 3 inch but would have to check the site to confirm that.
kteller??? huh?
and of course, kyle.. you've always got the option of rk sport, maganflow, and borla for 2.5" cat backs...
unsure on how large the megan racing and obx ones are... i think 2.25" though.
180hp in 1989 or 145hp in 2002, you decide. >
Check the link, hopefully this works
Link
hah what i need is a header back... and a y pipe for the cutout...
i'll email custom tubes, atomic, and kteller and see what they can do
Iperformance (Bill& Stan's) has a mandrel bent piping only kit.
Iperformance on eBay
or
Iperformance
thats a Stainless kit though. i have an aluminized cat-back with a magnaflow muffler from them. havent tried it out yet, but it looks pretty damn good. the price is a little steep though, for just piping. but the quality is definately there.
OEM also offers a mandrel bent cat-back in multiple piping sizes, with the option of no muffler. starts at around $200 in 2.5". although i dont know of anyone other than Mark from OEM who have used this kit on a J. a friend of mine owns a B13 sentra and purchased that kit from Mark. he has nothing but nice things to say about it.
OEM
CTI has a mandrel bent 2.5" kit i know many are very happy with, but they don't offer it on their website currently, i think you need to email them or something, but they still have the jig.
and then theres the Atomic kit which is all mandrel bends that are welded together and uses v bands instead of regular slip joints and clamps. they offer a pretty good deal of options. i know the few who have purchased are very happy and its a good quality kit.
Atomic
all of those are good options if you're looking to purchase something off the shelf. theres always the 'go to the muffler shop and have them bend you one' approach as well, which is probably cheapest, but quality depends on the place.
z yaaaa wrote:unsure on how large the megan racing and obx ones are... i think 2.25" though.
the Megan kit is 2.25" at the 3 bolt flange near the cat, but immediately after opens up to 2.5" all the way out. so if you're ditching the 3 bolt flange and using a 2.5" pipe from the cat to the cat-back it'd be good. can't speak for the OBX kit.
Jon D wrote:Iperformance (Bill& Stan's) has a mandrel bent piping only kit.
Iperformance on eBay
or Iperformance
thats a Stainless kit though. i have an aluminized cat-back with a magnaflow muffler from them. havent tried it out yet, but it looks pretty damn good. the price is a little steep though, for just piping. but the quality is definately there.
OEM also offers a mandrel bent cat-back in multiple piping sizes, with the option of no muffler. starts at around $200 in 2.5". although i dont know of anyone other than Mark from OEM who have used this kit on a J. a friend of mine owns a B13 sentra and purchased that kit from Mark. he has nothing but nice things to say about it.
OEM
CTI has a mandrel bent 2.5" kit i know many are very happy with, but they don't offer it on their website currently, i think you need to email them or something, but they still have the jig.
and then theres the Atomic kit which is all mandrel bends that are welded together and uses v bands instead of regular slip joints and clamps. they offer a pretty good deal of options. i know the few who have purchased are very happy and its a good quality kit. Atomic
all of those are good options if you're looking to purchase something off the shelf. theres always the 'go to the muffler shop and have them bend you one' approach as well, which is probably cheapest, but quality depends on the place.
z yaaaa wrote:unsure on how large the megan racing and obx ones are... i think 2.25" though.
the Megan kit is 2.25" at the 3 bolt flange near the cat, but immediately after opens up to 2.5" all the way out. so if you're ditching the 3 bolt flange and using a 2.5" pipe from the cat to the cat-back it'd be good. can't speak for the OBX kit.
i like the atomic option... they seem to have everything i need... the question is, does mild = aluminized?
no kyle, you dont want 'aluminized' you want straight up ALUMINUM.
180hp in 1989 or 145hp in 2002, you decide. >
im pretty sure my welder said he can only weld aluminized ... maybe aluminum... he told me to stay away from stainless steel
I have SS on my car right now, and in my opinion, not doing it when i up to 3". I paid a good chunk for a perfect fitting exhaust and love every bit of it. But looking at when I drive my car in the year is going to make me get mild steel next time around. then so it wont rust ill take a rag, cover it in anti-sieze and then rub that all over the exhaust. Works PERFECT and looks just as good.
plus if its good enough for my dads $40K show car, good enough for me...
My header when I had it...
Kteller is an exhaust shop popular in the DIY Honda world. They make many pre-bent exhaust kits that are of good quality for good prices. They are worth checking out.
Did you say that manifold is covered in anti-seize?
When you call CTI the 150+35 quote is what I got, and it was mild steel that lasted a Chicago winter, and I removed it for an Atomic Fabs header back 2.5 Stainless with vbands....
i think imma go with the atomic kit, it looks like they an option for the exhaust cutout..
i would ceramic coat all the pipes, but thinking about it, im in south east VA, and it almost never snows here... so i shouldn't worry about rusting...
really anti-sieze? how often u re applying it?
yes the HEADER is coated in anti'sieze... regualr silver anti'sieze. you can see where i got it on the hoses and where i didnt get it all the way on the right side of it. just a simple terry cloth, gloves, anti'sieze and some time and it looks like that. if you read on it the temp resistance is really high so it works perfectly. and I barely had to re-apply it, maybe once or maybe twice a year tops.
speedline, antisieze it after you put it on and it wont rust.
my header is gonna look like this... thats gonna take forever if i have to paint it on with the small brush.... =P
Hey guys, I dont want to talk too much about what we offer, as we're not paying sponsors (not sure if its cool or not)
but there is a difference in aluminized steel, aluminum steel and stainless. Aluminized is a non carbon or 'mild' steel mixed in which a anti-rust material to make it 'better'.
Aluminized steel is steel that has been hot-dip coated both sides with aluminum-silicon alloy. This process assures a tight metallurgical bond between the steel sheet and its aluminum coating, producing a material with a unique combination of properties possessed neither by steel nor by aluminum alone. Aluminized steel shows a better behavior against corrosion and keeps the properties of the base material steel for temperature lower than 800 °C.
Stainless we all know what that is and its better then Aluminized but many basic welders can not weld stainless; so its harder and sometimes more expensive in labor. T304 IMO is better then 409 steel and there is a sound difference with stainless vs aluminized to me. Stainless handles the tone better; 409 I've noticed over time will show some wear quicker in the long haul vs T304.
Aluminum is going to be lighter then the others, its harder to weld of course and requires a little more skill then a noobie with a mig and steel.
If i can help you any more, please email me directly sales@kteller.com; id be more then happy to speak with anyone. I wont be on here too much as this isnt a board we frequent but did come across.
Thanks
Mike K
KTeller Inc.
mike- how much do you think you could do a j-body all aluminum 3" mandrel bent catback?
180hp in 1989 or 145hp in 2002, you decide. >
Speedline02 (GME Chat!!) wrote: my header is gonna look like this... thats gonna take forever if i have to paint it on with the small brush.... =P
thats why i took the brush, scooped a big scoop then put it on the rag and rubbed it all on. worked awesome.
Does anyone know if flexible exhaust tubing would work for a temporary fix until I pass smog?
