kind of stole this from a company offering this setup. the turbo sits behind the cat and therefore eliminates the need for special headers. i would need to modify my exhaust system, and get a turbo, wastegate, and an intercooler. not sure if this is a smart idea, or how much modification my car would need, any feedback?
its called a remote turbo set-up and many people hear have tossed around the idea, there is actually clip on youtube of a cavalier with it i think, i saw it a while back, u wouldnt need a special turbo manifold but u would still need a completely custom exhaust and there isnt a lot of space under the car as it is, u would also have to run two oil lines, and intercooler piping, assuming u would be using one. there are benefits to remote turbo set ups but they are a lot more complex than the conventional turbo setup. i would suggest doing research on how they actaually operate and the pros and cons to see if its actually worth it to try. it would be cool to see though
if it can't win a race it better win a show
it's the best way to complicate an application way past the problem of needing a new exhaust manifold. you need to find a way to mount the turbo without it hitting the ground, plumb it, get oil to and from it, etc. it's a waste of time, money, and effort.
87 Firebird
All stock...........lol.
I put a turbo on my corvette in the rear of the car. Completely NOT worth it. I had to buy a nascar grade gear oil pump just to get the oil back up to the motor. That, among other things, was a severe pain.
"In Oldskool we trust"
I was going to do this a while ago when I was building my exhaust system trust me I have been underneath the Sunfire tons of times and the only places to put a turbocharger is in place of the cat (not behind inplace of it) closer. There is a hump around the floor pan and its wide enough. Second is the factory mounting location of the muffler area. There is plenty of room to shove it up there and mounting would be easy and welding some bolts and drilling some holes. The last place is next to the washer fluid bottle and underneath the battery tray area.
Now lets talk about the reason your wanted to remote mount the turbo, save on having to buy a turbo manifold and downpipe right?
Stratch the locations all of them but the last!!
When you mount the turbos back that for you will still have to pipe the air flow back to the throttle body, and you can't fit both the exhaust pipes and the intake pipes underneath the car in the stock places. Plus like they said the oil pressure would be to low. Now plus the amount of dirt and crap flying around the underside would screw up the turbo air filter. So the cost of buying the extra piping and oil pumps would out do the cost of about $150 for the manifold.
Now like I said the last is still in the engine bay, I found out cuz I was trying to fit a monster T04 60trim turbo with a .96ar exhaust side.
Using the engine support you can mount it on top ( had alot of room even with this monster)
Just make sure you clock the turbo inlet so you have plenty of space for the filter.
Now the bread and butter of the set up!!
You can attach the exhaust side to the stoc headers if you purchase a few exhaust bends and have them welded together, takes about the same amount of pipes as a normal downpipe.
From there the turbo down pipe can be made to cross back over the stock locations and piped back as normal.
Remeber that oiling issue?
Well when I placed the monster turbo in for mock up I found out that the tranny/engine oil lines are RIGHT THERE GOING INTO THE RADIATOR!!! So a small T fitting and some oil line takes care of the need for extra power.
And the last issue would be the intake tubing, you could either run the tubing up and into the intake or just install a small intercooler into the wheel well area or just do a top-mount/front mount intercooler.
Trust me I have done alot of checking and double checking everything and if you don't want to pay for a turbo manifold do this route it is the easy way and will save some cash I'll take some pictures in the morning of how it fits in so you can see everything. Check back then!
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umods@live.com/ddiaz@umods.org
thanks! i switched to a cold air intake, and noticed i have tons of space in my engine bay, this makes sense, pics would be great, help alot. thanks!
thats a nice setup! how did you set up the oil to it? and is there alot of lag? thats my concern with a turbo farther down the exhaust
Mike Oag wrote:thats a nice setup! how did you set up the oil to it? and is there alot of lag? thats my concern with a turbo farther down the exhaust
It has a little lag, but its not that bad. I contribute most of it due to the facts is an auto. If she really wants to launch it, she can spray it out of the whole and then there is no lag. As for the oil, is comes out of the same spot it would if you were to hang a snail on the front, just the line is longer. After the drain, there is a pump with pushes it back to the pan.
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
There are numerous LN2 S-truck guys that would like to do what you've done... Please tell us the details!!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Nickelin Dimer wrote:There are numerous LN2 S-truck guys that would like to do what you've done... Please tell us the details!!
What details do you want?
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
jared methe wrote:no need for a intercooler the air going back up cools in the charge pipes.
That was the main appeal for me. Though after having it for awhile, I think I may add one anyway. QWK LN2, that is awesome man.
"In Oldskool we trust"
Ryan Pitt wrote:jared methe wrote:no need for a intercooler the air going back up cools in the charge pipes.
That was the main appeal for me. Though after having it for awhile, I think I may add one anyway. QWK LN2, that is awesome man.
Thanks.. The main reason we used a FMIC in hers is due to the auto causing routing issues. It causes a pressure drop, but we will never have high IAT temps!
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
OK here are some of the pics I took of the monster T04 60 turbocharger mocked up inside the engine bay like I said i would post.
You can view more of them at my photo bucket account.
Here is one to show how far apart it would be to install a downpipe for the hot side, its kinda of hard to see but look to the left and you will see the exhaust flange and to the right the exhaust
pipes.
And here is one to show how close it is to the stock oil line to the radiator.
See how close it is!!
The rest of the pictures can be see at
http://s953.photobucket.com/albums/ae15/dazingaz/
http//www.umods.org/drift.html
umods@live.com/ddiaz@umods.org
thanks! i started scoping out spots to put it, and it is very close to the oil line, did you pipe in an intercooler? im thinking in front of the rad
I haven't installed it all the way yet.
I'm saving up for a welder and will do the pipes then.
But I plan on doing a top mount intercooler and a custom water spray/misted setup.
The system is going to be built in about a month or so, but I already made the sprayer using a oem wind sheild washer fluid pump and bottle from a donor Hyundai.
This turbo is huge! the exhaust ar is .96 and I want to find a smaller housing to spool a little faster.
Im doing something diffrent and dont want big boost numbers, I have done alot of research on my planned system and don't want to give away everything just yet.
Lets just say I need a boost guage to install before I say anything else!
http//www.umods.org/drift.html
umods@live.com/ddiaz@umods.org
well let me know how it all turns out, its looking great so far. ill take pics throughout the process and send them after
QWK LN2 (aka ImPhat0260) wrote:Nickelin Dimer wrote:There are numerous LN2 S-truck guys that would like to do what you've done... Please tell us the details!!
What details do you want?
Oh, you know... Like turbo sizing, return-pump used... all that fun detail-oriented stuff that maybe only a geek would appreciate! I mean, I wanna duplicate what you've done
so bad, then maybe share it with others in the same boat as me who'd want such a deal... for free!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
I was just discussing with a VW friend of mine at work today some possibilities with the remote turbo. I've done some checking around on this, and haven't seen it done yet, but if I'm right on the theory, it would work wonders and save a @!#$ ton on oil feed lines.
what about having a separate oil canister in the back of the car just for the oil for the turbo? it would have it's own pump and filtration system, as well as a way to properly drain it. could easily use a dip-stick set-up from a small single-cylinder engine (lawnmower/whatever). any thoughts on this?
JBO Stickers are back!!!! Click Me!!
Nickelin Dimer wrote:QWK LN2 (aka ImPhat0260) wrote:Nickelin Dimer wrote:There are numerous LN2 S-truck guys that would like to do what you've done... Please tell us the details!!
What details do you want?
Oh, you know... Like turbo sizing, return-pump used... all that fun detail-oriented stuff that maybe only a geek would appreciate! I mean, I wanna duplicate what you've done so bad, then maybe share it with others in the same boat as me who'd want such a deal... for free!
The turbo is a Garrett T3/T4 .57 trim with a .63 a/r .... The pump is a RB-Racing pump. Not the cheapest, but it is the best! Please note we have driven the car from STL to Ohio a few times, no issues at all. This is the key component to making all this work..... It is also the same pump that STS uses in their kits. (Thanks Pute!)
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
QWK LN2 (aka ImPhat0260) wrote:Nickelin Dimer wrote:QWK LN2 (aka ImPhat0260) wrote:Nickelin Dimer wrote:There are numerous LN2 S-truck guys that would like to do what you've done... Please tell us the details!!
What details do you want?
Oh, you know... Like turbo sizing, return-pump used... all that fun detail-oriented stuff that maybe only a geek would appreciate! I mean, I wanna duplicate what you've done so bad, then maybe share it with others in the same boat as me who'd want such a deal... for free!
The turbo is a Garrett T3/T4 .57 trim with a .63 a/r .... The pump is a RB-Racing pump. Not the cheapest, but it is the best! Please note we have driven the car from STL to Ohio a few times, no issues at all. This is the key component to making all this work..... It is also the same pump that STS uses in their kits. (Thanks Pute!)
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm
Thank you! Now to get my buddy, who's currently heaping to build
two different turbo cars, to lend me a hand.
Hey, what did ya use for feed pipes?
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
I have planned and did the math for away on my project and some remember the wed wacker idea thats why I have the huge turbo, was going to is the housing to make a electric unit the spools up at idle and delivers boost till around 3-4k rpms when the engine should take over on the amount of air pulled in. Problem was with the amount of electric current needed to spool high enough for power. I made a pully system to spin on gear and in turn spin a gear 5 times the size of it. Was going to use a primary radiator fan motor from my donor Excel for the spooling. But when I got down to ripping everything apart, I was looking over the turbo and its in perfect shape, big as hell but perfect shape. I got it for a steal $80 buck for it and some extra pipes/clamps and blow off valve(OEM type unit).Just couldn't bring myself to chop up a good unit.
So what was going through my head now was put it up for sale for double the price and wait to see if someone takes it, make back twice the cash. In the mean time I'm getting part together to build a kinda of sleeper turbo kit.
Leaving out the major players for now, but the basics intercooler/sprayer, fuel mods, ignition mods, oil lines, gauges,etc. When the time comes and I got everything I will eitheruse this one and do high rpm boost ap that get great MPG and only boost when I downshift and WOT, or do a normal turbo ap, with boost coming in using a T3 super 60 unit (thats what I really want to use!)
Its up to the fates now I just really want to get a boost gauge and see if this monster makes any boost on this engine first, before I really get going on the rest of the math. Did a test mock up and installed it without the rest of the exhuast installed rev'ed her up and I could feel a good amount of air coming out the charger around 4K rpms.
Once I get my hands on a boost gauge I'll throw together some PVC pipes laying around and see if she boost!
Check back for the updates
http//www.umods.org/drift.html
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