So i want to get a catback set up but i dont know where to start. I found the Pacesetter catback system that is very very cheap in price but in my searching on here about it i see that maybe its cheap in quality too? or no? otherwise i would buy magnaflow pieces and put together my own setup.
how does the pacesetter exhaust sound? anyone have it?
what should i do...budget = 300.
thanks guys.
i have it, with the header aswell. sounds good, is raw steel not SS but it has held up fine for me. do yourself a favor and wait till you can get header, high-flow cat and cat-back. specifically sound is surprisingly deep.
no experience with pacesetter, i did read some old posts way back when i was researching and not many ppl were fans of it.
$250 = 2.5" piping (http://customtubesinc.com)
$50 = super turbo or ultra flow muffler
$30 = 22"+ thrush glasspack resonator/cherry bomb
...then you just need a header and high flow cat.
Is 2.5 the way to go? stock is what 2.25?
if for now i was able to grab some parts like such as:
Magnaflow high flow cat $90
Thrush Glasspack $30
The Custom bent tubes $250~
And any muffler i like then?? like a cheap one? lol
what is the purpose of the glasspack? isnt it a muffler too? im a bit lost on that one...
explanation requested.
Other than that here is the
Pacesetter catback.
as my other option would there be anything i could just add to that one to make it better? and does Stainless Steel really matter since the Pacesetter is not? I live in Georgia so salt is a non issue. would throwing a high flow cat along with that make it better?
i can see im just throwing words around now... fill me in. (and yes headers will come soon after this catback.)
Ok, you seem like a good guy so il explain it as best i can.
Stock pipe is 2.25 yes, for N/A (non-boosted) you will want to go up to 2.5. If you were boosting 2.75+ but thats a whole other topic. Also most aftermarket parts are 2.5 and up.
When your are upgrading your exhaust you really need to think ahead a little bit. Is there anything wrong with your current exhaust system? ie damage? or are you just looking to upgrade? If that is the case, then I would suggest waiting till you can afford to swap out everything from your engine back all at once. ie; Header, Cat, pipes, resonator (if you chose to add one, i will talk about that in a sec), muffler and tip.
In the end you may spend less, and will definatly save time (and more money if you are paying a garage to install)
As headers go you have a couple options;
For brands, there are a couple, do a search to make your choice, i personally am using the pacesetter 4-1 NON armor coated ones. Again your choice, the armor coated will last longer and look nicer, and ,may (negligible in my opinion) reduce underhood temp slightly, but the regular raw steel ones work fine for me,
second, you will want to add a high-flow cat, and this part anything really will work fine, just get one made of the same materials and size of the parts you choose, they are essentially all the same.
Note: now would be the perfect time to add a wideband o2 sensor bung. While you have everything off the car it would be nothing to have another bung welded on, this way youi can just plug it and down the road when you decide to purchase a wideband, its already there.
Resonator: This is a completely optional part, what it does is lower the register of your exhaust, making it a little deeper, i found with my setup it was deep enough for me, and i didnt put one in, but if you chose to, it just gives you a deeper tone. again for me i saw the price as something i didnt need to spend.
Muffler: This one is again pretty much up your your preference, pick one you think sounds nice, and is the right size and material. and a tip you like.
Pipes; simple choices... size, material, and construction. The construction will either be mandrel bent, which is the best for air flow but is also the most expensive and unless you have a local shop measure and make it specifically for you, you may have fitment issues with the mass produced ones. Crush bent is the next option, which is still a good choice, slightly less air flow, a little less cost, but otherwise the same as Mandrel. The third option is pieced together and welded pipes. I dont recommend it, it has the worst air-flow, although it is less expensive. But in the end, for the actual cost of it relative to the other parts, just get the good stuff and you wont end up wanting to change it out later.
Any other questions or anything i missed let me know and il get back to you
thanks alot!
so it sounds to me like i should just start purchasing the pieces i need and once i have them all get them put on.
would anyone recommend Atomic Fabs?
http://www.atomicfabrications.com/Item.aspx?ItemID=5004
how is the price for what im getting here?
what sounds like a better set up for me to begin with:
1) 2.5" mild piping, Megan N1 SS muffler with a stock cat bolt up = $392 after shipping
2) 2.5" mild piping, Megan N1 SS muffler, Magnaflow cat = $487 after shipping
3) 2.5" mild piping, Megan N1 SS muffler, magnaflow cat, resonator = $542 after shipping
#2 and 3 may be 50 bucks additional if i have to deselect "stock cat bolt up" idk
Chris Carr wrote:Ok, you seem like a good guy so il explain it as best i can.
Stock pipe is 2.25 yes, for N/A (non-boosted) you will want to go up to 2.5. If you were boosting 2.75+ but thats a whole other topic. Also most aftermarket parts are 2.5 and up.
Stock is 1 7/8"(same size as the primarys on my header lol), 2.25" is what all aftermarket prefabbed cat-backs are. Also Fox has proven himself to be a douche, but you have soo much misinformation i have to chime in.
The general break down for sizes are:
2.25" - Most N/A apps
2.5" - Low boost apps(aprox. 250ish whp)
3" - High boost, high horsepower, crazy builds.
Chris Carr wrote:
When your are upgrading your exhaust you really need to think ahead a little bit. Is there anything wrong with your current exhaust system? ie damage? or are you just looking to upgrade? If that is the case, then I would suggest waiting till you can afford to swap out everything from your engine back all at once. ie; Header, Cat, pipes, resonator (if you chose to add one, i will talk about that in a sec), muffler and tip.
In the end you may spend less, and will definatly save time (and more money if you are paying a garage to install)
If the OP goes with a prefabbed system he, it wont cost him anymore buy doing the cat-back 1st and the header(no S, we only have one!!!!!!!!) and cat later. Reason: He is still going to have to go to an exhaust shop to have a "mid pipe" fabbed since no one makes them for us.
Chris Carr wrote:
As headers go you have a couple options;
For brands, there are a couple, do a search to make your choice, i personally am using the pacesetter 4-1 NON armor coated ones. Again your choice, the armor coated will last longer and look nicer, and ,may (negligible in my opinion) reduce underhood temp slightly, but the regular raw steel ones work fine for me,
second, you will want to add a high-flow cat, and this part anything really will work fine, just get one made of the same materials and size of the parts you choose, they are essentially all the same.
Armor coated is the way to go, no matter where you live raw steel headers/exhaust will rust. Also get a quality cat(magnaflow is a good choice), it'll suck to have to replace it every year or so.
Chris Carr wrote:
Note: now would be the perfect time to add a wideband o2 sensor bung. While you have everything off the car it would be nothing to have another bung welded on, this way youi can just plug it and down the road when you decide to purchase a wideband, its already there.
Only smart thing you have said.
Chris Carr wrote:
Resonator: This is a completely optional part, what it does is lower the register of your exhaust, making it a little deeper, i found with my setup it was deep enough for me, and i didnt put one in, but if you chose to, it just gives you a deeper tone. again for me i saw the price as something i didnt need to spend.
They also kill rasp which is the natural enemy of a *good* sounding 4 cylinder exhaust and bigger usually means better.
Chris Carr wrote:
Muffler: This one is again pretty much up your your preference, pick one you think sounds nice, and is the right size and material. and a tip you like.
Chambered mufflers usually give a better sound than straight threw, but sacrifice flow. You wont notice a difference in power between them unless your are making crazy power.
Chris Carr wrote:
Pipes; simple choices... size, material, and construction. The construction will either be mandrel bent, which is the best for air flow but is also the most expensive and unless you have a local shop measure and make it specifically for you, you may have fitment issues with the mass produced ones. Crush bent is the next option, which is still a good choice, slightly less air flow, a little less cost, but otherwise the same as Mandrel. The third option is pieced together and welded pipes. I dont recommend it, it has the worst air-flow, although it is less expensive. But in the end, for the actual cost of it relative to the other parts, just get the good stuff and you wont end up wanting to change it out later.
My whole exhaust is welded together from smaller pipes and the welds provide NO restriction at all. It is actually the best option because the exhaust can be tailored to fit your car perfectly. See the restrictive welds?
I had a pacesetter cat-back(no header) on my 96 LN2 cav and it did sound decent, but the fitment sucked and i wasnt planning on it lasting. The over axle mount wasnt long enough and the pipe rattled against my trailing arm mount.
I spent an ass load on the exhaust for my 03 and is currently complete overkill for my current S/C set-up, but my outlook was this: I'd rather spend alot at once and never have to touch it again than spending less and having to "fix" it every other year.
My advice is to buy the individual parts, take it to an exhaust shop, and have them do it all in 304 stainless. It will cost more, but you wont have to touch the exhaust again.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Thursday, February 04, 2010 6:09 PM
219whp - I <3 whine
never heard of that company, i would suggest getting ahold of Aaron from TurboTech they have alot of options and parts, good prices, and he is a known and reliable source to the org.
oh and side note since i cant edit, if your getting SS parts gets SS piping etc., you want to match materials.
This is Adam's(Atomic) 304 Stainless Steel, 3", resonated, catless system with a magnaflow muffler(straight threw).
Only pics of it installed:
This is the "resonator" that he uses. It does nothing for killing rasp.
Fitment is good, but you can get better if he had your car.
Quote:
2) 2.5" mild piping, Megan N1 SS muffler, Magnaflow cat = $487 after shipping
That is your best option, but i would spend the extra for the 304 stainless, buy your own resonator, and take it to an exhaust shop to have the res installed and connect the header to his piping.
219whp - I <3 whine
Thanks Tinkle dick, but hows about next time you dont even presume to know me. lol why dont you immature kids leave things be on the org? seriously bro...what in this post enticed you to be a douche? pot calling the kettle black. nice job. The past is the past. live in the now.
but yea, i guess the glasspack would be cheap to get and would be better than his...
i appreciate your advice...
it seems as though i may just buy some parts for now...build up everything i need and what not...
would headers be an ok place to start? work my way down and back???
Ok, so ya ive got a fair bit of (unintentional) misinformation going on there, and thank you for pointing it out, a good flame once and a while is expected on the org. I just wanted to add that the size issue, i completely just brain lapsed there lol, its been a lonnnnng time since ive been on the org, but still no excuse. although i did find some of your "corrections" to be more opinions than fact. Which is fine, i give my opinion alot aswell. (also would like to make the point that im not trying to start a 5 page flame war lol)
That said i have a question for your.
I happened to be checkin out your profile and ended up looking at pics of your S\C build, and other stuff and was wondering, that eco gauge face, did you make that? If so, i think that it fing nice and will have to try that sometime, if you bought it, do you mind telling where?
Fox-02 Ecotec- wrote:Thanks Tinkle dick, but hows about next time you dont even presume to know me. lol why dont you immature kids leave things be on the org? seriously bro...what in this post enticed you to be a douche? pot calling the kettle black. nice job. The past is the past. live in the now.
but yea, i guess the glasspack would be cheap to get and would be better than his...
i appreciate your advice...
it seems as though i may just buy some parts for now...build up everything i need and what not...
would headers be an ok place to start? work my way down and back???
I have read most of your "flame threads" that is where i got my presumption. That and you were in the running for DBOTY.
For where to start, it doesnt matter. Adam's system(with the cat option) will put it maybe 3-4" away from where it needs to be depending on what header(we only have one) you chose. RD Fabs offers a version of the header i have with 1.5" primaries and a 2.5" collector. Only problem is that i believe they might need a J-body to mock up a 2.5" down pipe and i would imagine that you would have the same install issues that we did because the thing is so long.
I bought Adam's exhaust 1st then went to RD Fabs for the header and install.
Chris Carr wrote:
That said i have a question for your.
I happened to be checkin out your profile and ended up looking at pics of your S\C build, and other stuff and was wondering, that eco gauge face, did you make that? If so, i think that it fing nice and will have to try that sometime, if you bought it, do you mind telling where?
I bought it off Alex at BlackCatCustoms.com. He can do just about any gauge face you want. Mine is actually very simple compared to some others he made. The "specs" of it are: 140mph conversion, blue LEDS, ECOtec background, and he removed the shift light. It is also 100% plug and play, just unplug your stock one and plug in the BCC. I didnt even have to do the passlock relearn.
219whp - I <3 whine
cool, i like the simple design you have, i saw "Ecotec" in the center and I was like.....I want one lol.
So it the whole custom console then? I was assuming it was just a cutout or something with different LED's, I like that better, no fing around trying to pull it apart just swap it out, il have to check them out, thx
sounds like i have alot to think about before purchasing parts...
Tinkles...so considering i will be buying parts and not immediately installing a complete set up...where do you suggest i start?
Headers? or the front...
or the back? lol
a lot of this is YOUR choice but..
start getting little stuff: high flow cat, resonator, muffler (vibrant is also nice).
look around for a used header: armor-coated pacesetter 4-1 (top end power) or rk sport 4-2-1 (mid-range).
go 2.5" and maybe even a flex pipe to go between your downpipe & cat.
What about the Tsudo 4-2-1 headers? i think i may go with that first...and work my way back...that or the rk sport....