yippie, i got in my DB/LC-1 kit and my car is in for an alignment as i type this.
stop playing PS3 and work on your car!
wait....I should do that as well.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
lol
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
-MD- Enforcer wrote:stop playing PS3 and work on your car!
wait....I should do that as well.
hahahaha
i dont even have the PS3 to fall back on. i attribute my lack of progress to my complete and utter laziness.
oh wow, i'm not going to lie, i actually forgot about this thread lol!
Ok, well over this winter i had come to the conclusion that i wasn't going to finish the build untill the 2011 season and that just turbing the stock engine would suffice..... That was before i spun a rod bearing on my way home from work today lol.
I have also come to the crossroad of proceeding with using the 086 head, or just using the LD9 head and getting it hogged out to shyt for the HG2 cams.
Reasons:
1) I'm still worried about valve contact, AND, I would want to start with a brand new 086 head seeing as how the one i currently posses has been shaved down some.
2) I'm having second thoughts about the .075" thick headgasket.
3) LD9 heads are hella common.
So with that beeing said, my build may no longer be a hybrid
![](/global/images/emoticons/ac.gif)
.
Comments?
id say stick with the 2.3 head man... you already have the turbo header.
and we have yet to determine if even the largest LD9 head would flow well enough for HG2's...
![](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q289/fast97z24/zyasig5.jpg)
We all need somebody to believe in something...
z yaaaa wrote:id say stick with the 2.3 head man... you already have the turbo header.
and we have yet to determine if even the largest LD9 head would flow well enough for HG2's...
The turbo head is nothing i can't sell, especially since it's already ceramic coated and has a 44mm Vband flange welded on. And getting an Atomic header made up would be an easy solution....mind you, i would prefer bottom mount over top mount. (Like the ones in the GP)
and with a .075" thick headgasket, i'm alsmot garunteed to not be able to exceed 13psi without it blowing when i'm approaching 8,000 RPM.
Winter depression sucks, it made me not want to even LOOK at my pile of parts
Alright bitches, i'm back at it! I jsut bought a second 086 head and i'm ordering a second custom headgasket AND tomorrow i'm ordering a 3rd....yeah you read that right.....THIRD set of custom pistons. The specs are, .040" overbore 7.9:1 with valve pockets (just incase).
I'm not effin around anymore, i'm tired of second guessing myself!.....I'm goin for broke...
awesome!!!
definitely put up pics of these tiny ass slugs!
![](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q289/fast97z24/zyasig5.jpg)
We all need somebody to believe in something...
LOL at Brad.
I need to try and get @!#$ together for my 2.3. Not used to a piston that big for my car.
Hell yea what I like to hear! This thread is in need of some updates!
Shipping Update:
My New head is on back order form Odessa and won't ship out untill Next Monday which is the 29th of March, and i was told i should expect to see it on Friday April 2nd ( holy @!#$ these days are flying by) As soon as it gets here i'm taking it to either PR Performance in Toronto, or Forest & Forest Racing in Ayr, to be striped down, ported, polished, 3 angle valve job, have the new bronze valve guides installed, then the valves, springs ect ect.
My lifters, i just ordered from my local NAPA dealer that my company has a account with so i got an "ok" price on them (Still friggen pricey) I got them for $18.50 each but i don't have to pay any shipping and the total came to $296 Canadian.
Thrice . wrote:Shipping Update:
My New head is on back order form Odessa and won't ship out untill Next Monday which is the 29th of March, and i was told i should expect to see it on Friday April 2nd ( holy @!#$ these days are flying by) As soon as it gets here i'm taking it to either PR Performance in Toronto, or Forest & Forest Racing in Ayr, to be striped down, ported, polished, 3 angle valve job, have the new bronze valve guides installed, then the valves, springs ect ect.
My lifters, i just ordered from my local NAPA dealer that my company has a account with so i got an "ok" price on them (Still friggen pricey) I got them for $18.50 each but i don't have to pay any shipping and the total came to $296 Canadian.
Forgot to add, they'll be here next Tuesday (March 30th)
Im foresee BIG numbers, don't give up!
GMR has got nothing on this
DOHC_tuner wrote:Im foresee BIG numbers, don't give up!
No BIG numbers this year. This summer is all about getting the engine BUILT and IN the car and broken in.
Next year i already have planned out. The order goes like this:
#1-Beefing up the fuel system (bigger lines, Racetronix fuel pump, Areomotive AFPR)
#2-Bullseye Power S362 6 bolt T3 Specs:
Compressor: Inducer - 62mm; Exducer - 84.6mm Trim: 54
Turbine: Inducer - 76.3mm; Exducer - 67.6mm; A/R: .7
#3-@!#$ my pants punching the gas pedal
i am especially fond of plan #3.
![](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q289/fast97z24/zyasig5.jpg)
We all need somebody to believe in something...
So the lifters came in....I'm a bit upset about them.
The ratio is :
7-lightweight to 9-@!#$ty paper weights
boo-urns on me! It appears the difference is by where they were manufactured. Mexico = lightweight, China = heavy.
Now i get to go see if i can return 9 of these @!#$ ers and get some more light weight ones!
you can, man. no worries. ive had to do it and so have many others.
![](http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q289/fast97z24/zyasig5.jpg)
We all need somebody to believe in something...
Everything is going well I see,keep going man.
Couple things I noticed... I dont think PR performance is still around. I bought a lot of stuff from that guys old race Sunfire and he now works at Toyota, he said he closed his shop down. Unless there is another PR performance. If you need an engine to put in your car for now, I have one in my garage, let me know.
Also, coupld u post pics of the reverse bleeder you made? I need one badly.
gtpsunfire wrote:Everything is going well I see,keep going man.
Couple things I noticed... I dont think PR performance is still around. I bought a lot of stuff from that guys old race Sunfire and he now works at Toyota, he said he closed his shop down. Unless there is another PR performance. If you need an engine to put in your car for now, I have one in my garage, let me know.
Also, coupld u post pics of the reverse bleeder you made? I need one badly.
I don't need a new engine for now, thanks though! I'm bummin rides to work off of my dad (family owned business) so i'm good untill the engine's built.
I can post a picture of what i used to reverse bleed the clutch tomorrow seeing as i'm going up to the shop to help my dad out on the stang. He ordered a double universal joint for his steering colum because for the last year there's been a slight bind in the current single universal joint due from the angle the colum must reach the steering rack.
Also, i got my head infrom clearwater.... all i can say is "LOL" at the sizing of the exhaust ports!...you'll all see tomorrow, i'll post pictures of that as well.
Ok, pictures of the head, and what i used to reverse bleed the clutch system.
For reverse bleeding the clutch, it's just a simple mini oiling can that i bought from Part Source (Auto Zone) and the hose i believe is 1/8th or 3/16th. I can't quite remember, sorry. The person at Part Source should be able to just match up the hose to the spout on the can, which happened to be the perfect size of the bleeder screw on the clutch line
![](/global/images/emoticons/ab.gif)
I think it was $12 or $18 total for the oilcan and 1 foot of line.
***NOTE**** When reverse bleeding the clutch line, make sure the can is FULL of clutch fluid, and that you EMPTY your clutch master cylinder, or you'll spill @!#$ EVERYWHERE!
ALSO
Pump the oil can at a reasonable rate so you DON'T creat air bubbles as you pump, or you'll just have to do this all over again. This particular oil can has a ball and spring in the pickup so when you release the pump handle, fluid stays IN the pick up and you won't get air in the line, allowing you to re-fill the can if you run out of fluid.
Hope that helps Darren. Hey, did you ever find those videos of Chris' car running? His old thread that got locked 3 years ago had the videos from your photobucket, but i can't view them without your username and password for some reason. Weird.