I know its best to do both, but like most on here, im thinking on a budget. Which do you think would yield the biggest gains with my current mods in registry? I can pick up a stock head for ~35 at the yard, open up the ports myself, pick up some +1mm valves and have a shop machine for them. OR, i can pick up some stock cams for about the same price, have them reground (need to decide on specs for my build), and throw in some better valvesprings for high revs.
In each case I'm looking at about 500-600 depending on what I could recoup from sale of my stock parts. I'm thikning the head and larger valves would be more beneficial to my build (daily driver 4000-7000rpm powerband, but not a turd off the line either)
Thanks for reading
its all about flow.... port the head and get the valves.
01' Z24 5 speed
422whp/400wtq
T4 Turbocharged
Built LD9
HP Tuners
why not just get the head and the valves and then slowly start buying parts as you can afford them and then machine it? You would have basically a brand new head that flows a whole lot better and could yield more power. just my thoughts.
Bare eco head - ~35 after core
Machine work on head - ~300 estimated
Oversize valves 395.
OR
Eco camshafts - ~ 50 after core
Regrind (custom for more lift) - ~150 estimated
Fully built valvetrain (GMPP, required for high RPM operation) 650 from allecotec.com
Head gasket and ARP studs would go with both.
Basically, i want to start budgeting money for the solstice. But i didnt realize the head and cams were so cheap from the yard Doing the enitre head/cams would run well over 1k dollars, but doing one or the other i can keep it well under 1k dollars. Its just a matter of budgeting really. I was looking for input on which one is most worthwhile/ most productive.
i think you should do what you can now torwards the machine work, and get parts as you can, an have both...it'll take longer, but if you do a little each paycheck, or something like that, it won't seem as bad, and you won't be doing the same work twice...(taking it off, doing work to it, putting it back on...blah blah).
but otherwise, i would go with the first option.
I say port and valves now as to not have to pull the head once you get it on and working.
if you go with option A, you'll have to machine down the +1mm over valves to fit in the current valve seats... larger valve seats are expensive to put in ( x 16)
$300 should cover cleaning the head, decking it, disassembly/assembly, inspection, valve job, and maybe milling the intake/exhaust to port match it.
are staying with stock springs etc? which headgasket do you plan to use? got a budget for all the other parts you'll need ? (gaskets, etc)
with option B, depending on the valves you may be in the same boat with machine shop work, does the GMPP valvetrain actually make any more power?
might be a good idea to save up some more $ .. do it all right (or complete) the 1st time
14.82 @ 97 mph
It would be pointless to have all the work done to the head and not upgrade the valve train at the same time. Way too much extra work. I say get the cams and a junkyard head. Install the cams and slowly start working on the head, valves, and valve train on the side.
Guys i realize it would be better/ideal to work over the whole valvetrain and head. I was asking which is more benficial if i only do one or the other as described above. I have alread spent more on this car than i was initially planning to - it is a daily driver. I was budgeting in for head/valves OR cams/valvetrain not because of being able to buy everything all at once, but just because that's the end of what i want to spend on it, handicap or not. Both would increase flow, but which is MORE beneficial given the goals i described above. Sorry if the question was unclear. Thanks for reading
are you getting it tuned after?
if not, all of its pretty much out of the question in my opinion.
get some mild cams then get it tuned to maximize the mods and get the car performing the way you want. then call it a day.
i wasnt sure if it was clear or not, but im assuming your getting this stuff for the solstice?
Triflow 2.4L VVT
talk to Geoff at Colt Cams directly. you will get the best price on the cams for him. or, talk to LZM as they are a reseller of his products.
1997 Cavalier Z24
Bomz Short Ram Intake
Vibrant Cat-Back
KYB GR2 Struts
Goldline 1.75" Springs
RK Sport Upper Insert
RK Sport Lower Dogbone
Custom Tune by Shane @
innovativetuning@rogers.com
15.647 @ 88.02 MPH
No, its for the cavalier. I'm only considering it because junkyard cores are so cheap. The cavalier is tuned for its current mods, it and it will be retuned if head or cams are modded...
i would still honestly go with just the cams on the stock valvetrain. the head flows well enough that it shouldnt be the limiting factor.
1997 Cavalier Z24
Bomz Short Ram Intake
Vibrant Cat-Back
KYB GR2 Struts
Goldline 1.75" Springs
RK Sport Upper Insert
RK Sport Lower Dogbone
Custom Tune by Shane @
innovativetuning@rogers.com
15.647 @ 88.02 MPH
I am running the LZM TriFlow Cams..Stock head and valve train...Great power all the way from 3500 to 7000...Have had this set up for over a year now and 50 thousand km on it...Will be doing the head next...My car is a DD..
Out of the Two choices, Bump sticks would Net the most power.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
