this is question is geared towards madjack, however if anyone wants to jump in and help that would be sweet. I need some upgrades and I sent madjack a pm explaining my situation and he din't quite know for sure what to do. LIsted below are some pictures of my rockers and I need some upgrated rockers IE: comps ect... the ones I have really is alright but I need to start building up the motor hence my turbo (if you look in the registry its out dated and looks way different that that. this is where I need to be due to finantial situations I would like to start with the rockers/pushrods. MadJack gave me some pointers but I dont' quite know if he/you seen what the 1990 2.2 ohv rockers look like.. basicly I'm hoping for an easy swap or something thats comparible to something thats more high performance...ok I'll stop rambeling on and on with the pics... btw. the engine has about 20K and I do an oil change once a year or about 1000 miles on average a year maybe a little less. thats why its so clearn on the inside.









**changes are here**

As I stated before, flat hydraulic and hydraulic roller cams use the same rocker arms, the difference comes in the pushrod length. Get the 10mm bottom / 3/8" top rocker arm studs and you can use any of the rocker arms listed in 2.2/2200 Rocker Arm List thread, for the '97 & older models (or any other rocker not listed for the SBC with the narrow body). If you plan on doing a cam regrind/swap, hold off on deciding what ratio to get till you decide on how much lift the cam you select will have. If you decide to stay with the stock cam, then the 1.6:1 ratio rockers will help a little.

You don't need the self-aligning rockers, just the narrow bodied rockers (used on the center bolt valve covers). You can use the self-aligning rockers, but you need to remove the guide plates, other wise the guides on the roller tips and the guide plates will be fighting each other, resulting in damage to the valve train. Remember, when using the guide plates and 1.6 rockers the guide plates need to be clearanced for the closer to the stud pushrod cup on the rocker.

The only difference with the upper valve train (above the pushrods) is the valve stem diameter, locks and retainers. They are all sized for the 8mm valve stem, the '94+ and "S" heads use a 7 mm valve stem and related parts.

thanks alot bro. I'm going to take this advice and run with it.


**changes are here**

we use sb rocker studs in our race motors, we just take a 3/8 tap and go into the hole and put an arp long thread stud in, it makes the top end completely adjustable no questions on pushrod length

Quote:

we just take a 3/8 tap and go into the hole and put an arp long thread stud in

You're talking iron heads? The head above uses a threaded stud with a 10mm thread and a shoulder which is almost 12mm IIRC. It's strong, but doesn't work with taller aftermarket roller rockers.

-->Slow

no, the same head he has. the aluminum heads we make it so we can adjust the top end.

stock studs

sb studs

The ARP and Crane studs I mention have the 10mm base, which screw directly into the 2.2L head and have the 3/8" top just like the SBC. No tapping the threads is required. They were originally made to fit the 60* V6s(2.8L, 3.1L3.4L, 3100, 3400, etc...), so SBC rocker could be used on them. The same thing applies here.

The '98 model year had either the 8mm or the 10mm stud holes. All the '99 + use the 8mm stud base. ARP makes a rocker stud with the 8mm base and the 3/8" tops, for use on the 8.1L BBC. Those are used to convert to use the SBC on the 2200s as applicable.

o wow, did not know about screw in studs, that will be so much easier haha

Well, I guess there's no problem with the 3/8 studs pulling out of the 10mm holes. They're loose enough that I probably wouldn't have tried it.

2.8, 3.1 engines originally had 10mm screw in studs and adjustable rockers. If you're racing with "no roller rocker" rules you can find those parts fairly cheap in junkyards up and down the east coast. The 3100 switched to roller fulcrum rockers with positive stop bolts instead of studs.

I've about given up on finding 10mm posi-lock rocker nuts. I'm probably going to end up using standard 10mm locknuts with spacers in order to use the LT4 rockers. And here I thought I'd be saving money by not using the 10mm to 3/8 conversion studs. <sigh>

-->Slow