was just thinking to myself while i'm here at work bored as crap.

if i wanted to swap the 2.4L ecotec from SS cobolt to a 2000 cavalier, are the motormounts similar or would you have to make new ones?
would the cv joints/axels from the 2.4tranny match up to the hub allready on the 2000cav?
i searched around a little online but couldnt really find any thing.

was just wondering any answers would help

thanks.

everything you would want to know can be found with a search.

Sort answer, a cav ECU wont run the engine, its ALOT of work

I figured so.
i'm just bored at work and was wondering how difficult it would be.

The swap wont be easy or cheap. Plus you would only gain 30ish hp. Not worth it for a N/A build.

use a 2.2 eco over the 2.4 eco...having owned both of them...i perfer the 2.2


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Primer Counts as Custom Paint Right?
BTW: This is my Sig.

Not worth the measly 20hp gain.



Lets Get this New Forum Going!! We need some Q4/TC Gurus

Well if i did it. it wouldnt only be for the hp gain....
I MYSELF have never seen one in a cavalier. and think that it would be unique.

2ca0va0lier0 wrote:Well if i did it. it wouldnt only be for the hp gain....
I MYSELF have never seen one in a cavalier. and think that it would be unique.

the 2.4 looks exactly the same as a 2.2


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my carDomain updated 8/2/08 Boosted at B-day!

You could save yourself a lot of cutting/splicing by swaping ALL electronics from the cobalt (harness sensors, guages). I wouldn't do it for the stock vs stock gains. What you get with the 2.4 eco is a bottom end that can stand up to at least 350hp, as seen on several solstice 2.4 turbo set ups.

My opinion: It would only really be worth it if your getting a donor car for cheap or nothing.

not worth 30hp? I was @!#$ting bricks when I swapped from the OHV to the eco.

now imagine going from one eco to the next and getting the same result.

there's more than a few problems about the 2.4 short block swap tho.. the ignition being the big one, and would necessitate a stand alone ecu.
But torque and horsepower go way up, 170hp and like 165tq or so.

very sneaky upgrade too since on the outside it looks identical to the L61.

a 2.4 block coupled with headwork, cams, and some basic boltons could yield quite a powerful all-motor punch.

the LE5 also works with the F23 without any problems, and uses the same flywheel and clutch.

The only thing I'm worried about is the pistons are 88mm in diameter, and the head is slightly smaller, so you'd have a lip around the combustion chamber (increasing compression) which is good for n/a, but I'm not sure how it would effect detonation resistance, having a sharp ring like that around the chamber.

Also, the LE5's rod ratio isn't great for high revving from my calculations.. so it may be good for mid range torque and power, but up high it may fall flat (7500rpm or so)


but if the only reason you want to do the swap is to be different, I'd look elsewhere.

I was thinking it would be more worth while if your boosting it. You get the stronger bottom end.

Why does everyone think you NEED a standalone? Why not run the entire cobalt ECM and associated electonics. So you'll have to rig the cobalt guages, but it should work if you have a complete donor car.

Again, if your running the cobalt ss ECM, you get a more boost friendly tuning OS - (MAP/MAF/RPM instead of TPS/RPM)

It all depends on the price you can source the parts for.

Personally i see swapping the entire cobalt electonics to be a bigger PITA than running a standalone. Plus you get the added benifit of not having any restictions for tuning.

I already tell everyone i talk to about this, so what the hell. A LE5/L61 swap is planned for my cav. Going off of PJ's rod ratio thread, the LE5 sucks for high RPMS. So turbocharging it would not be ideal, but i do see a supercharger working nicely.
Im doing it for the lower rod ratio(im not a high rpm kinda guy) and the extra displacement.

It is not going to be a cheap swap(standalone, rods, pistons, machined head, and M62 just to list the minunum). So it wont be done soon, but hopefully started next year.




P.S. Yes my friends uncle's father has the shop to swap it in and im gettin a government grant to fund it.

oldskool wrote:I was thinking it would be more worth while if your boosting it. You get the stronger bottom end.

Why does everyone think you NEED a standalone? Why not run the entire cobalt ECM and associated electonics. So you'll have to rig the cobalt guages, but it should work if you have a complete donor car.

Again, if your running the cobalt ss ECM, you get a more boost friendly tuning OS - (MAP/MAF/RPM instead of TPS/RPM)

It all depends on the price you can source the parts for.

because you're still stuck within the restrictions of a factory ecu.

also, the serial communication for the gauges and bcm is different, so you lose everything you would if you went stand alone anyway.

stand alone is simpler and more cost effective IMO. especially for low budge MS systems that are more than capable of doing the job.
much easier to install that too, and the tuning possibilities are endless. My particular stand alone supports up to 44psi of boost, and can run alpha-n, speed density, or a blend of the two (i can program it anyway I want).

DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:

oldskool wrote:I was thinking it would be more worth while if your boosting it. You get the stronger bottom end.

Why does everyone think you NEED a standalone? Why not run the entire cobalt ECM and associated electonics. So you'll have to rig the cobalt guages, but it should work if you have a complete donor car.

Again, if your running the cobalt ss ECM, you get a more boost friendly tuning OS - (MAP/MAF/RPM instead of TPS/RPM)

It all depends on the price you can source the parts for.

because you're still stuck within the restrictions of a factory ecu.

also, the serial communication for the gauges and bcm is different, so you lose everything you would if you went stand alone anyway.

stand alone is simpler and more cost effective IMO. especially for low budge MS systems that are more than capable of doing the job.
much easier to install that too, and the tuning possibilities are endless. My particular stand alone supports up to 44psi of boost, and can run alpha-n, speed density, or a blend of the two (i can program it anyway I want).

That's why i mentioned the caveat of using everything from a donor car, including guages; of course a manual trans to manual trans swap would be easist to avoid electonics of the transmission. Stand alone would be MOST effective, but the cobalt electronics swap would be emmissions "compliant", and potentially cheaper and easier if a donor car is available.

What I really want to see is a hybrid LNF/LE5 in a solstice or cobalt/cavalier. It would require the LNF PCM from respective FWD or RWD platform, use the LE5 bottom end with forged pistions with direct injection provisions, the LNF top end, and a GT3076r. Say hello to a reliable 400hp with ~3000rpm boost threshold