okay so i changed my head gasket about 3 weeks ago
i used a stock gasket and some shim thing becouse they cut so much off the head or some bs
any way what do you no! i have a cracked head now so im ordering a new one for 350 and i was just wanting to go with that cometic gasket or w/e
i no theres different thicknesses what one should i get with a brand new head?
any info, links or any thing
thx
i have a 98 2200 2.2l cavalier

and what do arp studs do

If it is actually a new head, get the regular Fel-Pro Head Gasket Kit # HS9170PT1 and head bolt set # ES72170. Install the head to the torque as I've posted previously.

The shim is nothing unusual and has been done successfully for many years. The most typical problem is people often cheap out and re-use the old head bolts. This is a big no-no! The head bolts are torque-to-yield, in-other-words, they need to stretch a certain amount, which can only be done with new bolts, old bolts are already stretched. It also helps to thoroughly clean the threads in the block and the pad where the bolts heads seat, apply a molly based assembly lube on the threads and under the bolt heads, for smooth and consistent torque.

The major reasons for HG failure is poor/lack of cooling system preventative maintenance. Changing and flushing the coolant at regular intervals, Chaining the hoses, thermostat or water pump as needed and keeping-up with the coolant level. Also be sure to bleed all the air out of the system anytime the system has been opened for any reason.

In'04 my Ex tried to run away with the car and the thermostat stuck and the car overheated. Instead of properly fixing it, she had the mechanic punch out the thermostat, instead of replacing it (cheeping out to save $6). A couple days later it blew the HG, because of inconsistent cooling, warping the head. That car had 197k miles without a major problem, up to that point, aside from the timing chain. (BTW, will be doing the '82 1.8L roller chain conversion, when I change the cam [hotter regrind] and head [more aggressive P&P] before this spring.)

If you are getting a cometic in hopes of giving you a little more power, get the thinner one, it will slightly boost your compression ratio.

other than that, I agree with what madjack said 100%

Don't get the thinner Cometic HG, unless you have the adjustable (aftermarket) rocker arms, otherwise you could damage the lifters. Besides, the head and block need a certain roughness level for proper sealing with MLS or Copper (need O-rings also) HGs.

MadJack wrote:Don't get the thinner Cometic HG, unless you have the adjustable (aftermarket) rocker arms, otherwise you could damage the lifters. Besides, the head and block need a certain roughness level for proper sealing with MLS or Copper (need O-rings also) HGs.

I didnt think the small amount of thickness difference between stock and the N/A cometic would be enough to cause any lifter damage, but you are 100532097839871% correct on the surface finish RN52 I believe is what is required.

okay thx
that didnt answer my question tho
i bought new head bolts
i bought all that stuff last time by felpro
but i wanna go with a cometic gasket so what would i use then
and what do the arp studs do again?
thx for the input mad jack

I know TTR carries the Cometic MLS HG in 0.030" or 0.074". One is thicker and the other is thinner than the stock's 0.055" HG. Like I said, unless you have the aftermarket roller rocker arm conversion, I'd stick to the Fel-Pro or GM HG. If you do have aftermarket roller rocker arms, then go with the 0.030" thick gasket. Just remember the gasket requires a finer finish than a composite gasket (Fel-Pro or GM).

The ARP head studs are a bit stronger than the regular head bolts and torque much more consistently, for a better sealing HG. They can be reused, unlike the head bolts. Prefered for boost and higher compression levels.

okay thx man
means alot

hmmm, see i learned something.

yeah!!!