I would like to achieve around 225 Hp and around the same with torque. I have a 95 2.2L and i was wondering which mods should i add to achieve this goal other than a boosting.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

Well I believe you'd be the first to accomplish such a goal without nitrous or boost...

that kind of whp would take a pretty good build even with boost. that's around 125% over stock.



87 Firebird
All stock...........lol.

Well lets say about 175 to 200Hp what would i be looking at for mods.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

you can get it with the list i showed in the other forum but it will not be streetable nor practical

If certain parts found in the build Bob mentioned are used, with exceptions made for fuel-delivery & ignition (Like goin' with injection & DIS, and using a Hogan intake manifold) it could be possible. The beauty of Multi-point EFI (Especially sequential) is it helps a relatively wild cam live on the street. The only hang-up you'll find in your case is the OBD-1.5, which uses a OBD-I computer but has a OBD-II ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link). This menas you'll need to send the PROM (Programable Read-Only Memory) chip off to someone to get it reprogramed with a proper tune. Your best bet if you choose to go down this road is to swap-in a OBD-II system, so you'll have the advantage of flash-memory programing for tuning, which will allow changes made on the spot with a HP-Tuner or similair software if you have a laptop.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Well i just really wanted a parts list and bob you havn't told me before.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

i posted in another forums, here it goes

now remeber this is all in a pro 4 stock car that is only run between 4000-6500 rpm

we take a stock crank and shave the counter weights as well as the crank sensor ring off it, the drops about 6 lbs off the crank

custom made flywheel, steel 10 lbs... not allowed to run aluminum

underdrive front pulley

no accessories, just water pump is driven off of belt

eagle rods, recut and balanced to reduce weight, about 55 grams per rod

custom ross racing flat top pistons, drilled for light weight .040 over bore

custom port and polished head

custom ground race cam, not streetable, 2200 rpm idle, idle could prob be tunred down to 1200-1500 but it shakes the car so much it scares ya haha

stock lifters, pushrods, rockers...not allowed to run rollers

custom made intake, made for weber 32/36 carbeurators... again not allowed to run fuel injectino

custom lengthened 1984 2.0 distributor

no computer control or electronics

4-1 race header

full 3 inch wide open exhaust

and we put down low 200's torque and hp on a dyno jet


the way we machine the crank there is no crank sensor trigger(because we run carb and distributor) and that is a 4 lb weight which is going to help with torque and how fast it spins up i can get you some part numbers on these pieces if you need them, i know ross will make the pistons if you give them the part number they are about 650 a set with rings. the eagle rods need the bushing bored out in the small end because the eagle has a .800 bushing(like a stock cav wrist pin) and ross' smallest pin is .830 so that has to be done. you could gain a little more than me by running a roller cam lifters and rockers the injection could also be tuned in to turn more reliable than the carb. if you wanted a carb'd manifold built we could do that for ya too haha. you could save some money by running an aluminum flywheel as teh steel we had fab'd up cost us $800 and the aluminum is cheaper. and if you are spending this much on the build have a custom header with like 1 3/4 or 2 inch primaries (the one we have is only 1 1/2 primaries) any opther questions just ask

Well yes i would like some pistions. but also where could i get my crank shaved? and yes i will be running roller cam lifters and rockers

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

we had a local shop cut it, if you are running fuel injections you cant cut the crank trigger off unless you add an aftermarket crank trigger/ignition system. but you can get a auto engine machine shop to knife edge the counter weights, make sure it is rebalanced whenever it is modified though

Well no im not running injections so what should i do i dont think any shop in my town would know how to do it.

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

What do you think and under drive pulley set, full exhaust 2.25", port&polished head, sport cam, forged pistons, steel alloy connection rods, lighter fly wheel, and a clutch. performance wise what would i be looking at for power?

It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

160-180 with the right tuning