I'm thinking about buying an OBX Stainless Steel Racing Header off of ebay for my 99' 2.2 liter Cavy. Just was curious on the quality of OBX over the quality of pacesetter. It would cost about 170 after shipping and stuff. Good deal? Bad deal? Your thoughts plz.
get it it's a certified 20 HP increase and with and an intake you could be at 40 HP with those 2 mods alone.
I have the obx it's cool but you can tell it's not gonna last forever
40hp with a header and intake ?!?!!?
SIGN mE UP ! lol......... `rollseyes
My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"
I have had one for about 4.5 years now and its still holding up good, just had one crack but i caused it because i hit a bump. Other than that it has held up very well, not the greatest header in the world but it gets the job done. I will be re doing my exhaust, but this time im going with a pacesetter header. You should look into that one.
lol, i have the obx header w/ a CAI on the sunfire I just bought. If that combo adds 40hp I can only imagine how SLOW this car was before those mods...I cant see 40hp maybe 25 additonal horses. Anyways it seems like a good header, quality investment for the price the only thing i dont like is that there is no flexpipe so when Im sitting at a light the exhaust rattles on the body of the car.
1993 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
3.4L DOHC V6 4 Speed auto
My Sexy Baby...poor gas mileage
1998 Pontiac Sunfire
2200 OHV 4cyl 3 Speed auto
My Daily Beater...great gas mileage
yea my bud has a pacesetter ceramic coated on his 98 sunfire. He's had it for about 3 years now and it's done fine. I was just looking to see if the stainless steel made any difference from the ceramic coated one pacesetter has to offer because pacesetter was my first choice. I have intake and custom 2.25in catback so anything more to my exhaust should help with the power.
I have the OBX 4-1 Eco header.. things awesome.. holding up just fine for me.. ( IMO I dont think OBX has as many issues as pacesetters does)
yea that's what my bud says.
guys my flex pipe is about to go. are you saying with a long tube header i can eliminate the flex pipe? What are the downsides to this? Anyone have a flex pipe moved back with the long tube?
Thanks
I've got the 2.4L OBX header and haven't had any issues with it. However, If you're going to skip the flex pipe upgrade the mounts to urethane.
I have one in the classifieds, used, for sale cheap. Not stainless but I got it ceramic-coated black.
2001 Chevy Cavalier (Sandrift Metallic) 8 OHV of raw fury!
Luis Marroquin wrote:I have had one for about 4.5 years now and its still holding up good, just had one crack but i caused it because i hit a bump. Other than that it has held up very well, not the greatest header in the world but it gets the job done. I will be re doing my exhaust, but this time im going with a pacesetter header. You should look into that one.
you hit a bump and your header cracked???
OBX makes OK products, they wont perform as well as the higher prices origionals that they often are knocking off.
As far as the other question, the long tube pacesetter header removes the factory flex pipe, and has privision for flex via a ball/socket joint.
Some people have problems getting that to seal, but it is a very nice header in general. I had the armor coat.
20 hp?? its 4 banger 2.2 2200 . not a BBC. theyre actually pretty good espeically for the price
Working on obtainting an M-Class license... ?? Hint: 2 wheels.
John Benham wrote:Luis Marroquin wrote:I have had one for about 4.5 years now and its still holding up good, just had one crack but i caused it because i hit a bump. Other than that it has held up very well, not the greatest header in the world but it gets the job done. I will be re doing my exhaust, but this time im going with a pacesetter header. You should look into that one.
you hit a bump and your header cracked???
yup it sure did! i pulled into taco bell parking lot and they had a mountain of a speed bump, well i caught the end of the downpipe and kept on creeping because i didnt hear touch. Well the pressure on it cause stress to the Ball/socket joint and cause it to crack. I towed it home pulled it off and Mig welded the crack so no more leak!
Popular mod is to just eliminate the ball socket & weld a 6" collector in place, for sealing reasons. Then install a flex-tube after it.
If you get the stainless & have it cerami-coated, it'll last you forever. But, before you buy a stainless header, ask if the tubing is made of 304 or 409 stainless. The 304 is best, and the 409 is crap.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
I'm just getting the OBX 4-1, modding the collector to 3" and using my current mesh 3" flex pipe right there. It's a good size flex pipe so I'm not too worried about cracking a flange or anything, I just don't trust the ball/socket style. All the welds will be checked out too before I do the header wrap.
"Vroom."
"Yo I wouldn't race him, there's not even an interior in his car man."
"Vrooooooom PSSSSHHH!"
"Oh sh*t. F*ck that, dude..."
(And yes I realize this is an old thread, just giving my two cents. Someone else may have searched it too and have been looking for some insight.)
"Vroom."
"Yo I wouldn't race him, there's not even an interior in his car man."
"Vrooooooom PSSSSHHH!"
"Oh sh*t. F*ck that, dude..."
Does anyone have working A/C with this header? Or is A/C unheard of once a header comes into play? I have a standard Pacesetter on my 95' 2.2 and no A/C... collector is right in the way of the compressor. I'm about to do a rebuild and this would be the ideal header if this one doesn't sacrifice the A/C.
