My cavalier obsession started in 2001 when my sister bought 99 rs that had 8,000 miles on it by 2005 it had 143,xxx
Miles my sister couldn't keep up on the loan payment so she relinquish the title to my parents.
My dad drove it to work for about 6 months and decided that it wasn't time for a mid life crisis and give it to my older brother (FF 2008 my dad hit his mid life crisis he bought an F-150 and 3 horses).
My brother decided he would rather have my 89 subaru justy so when he gets out of job corp. Ill probably trade him cars.
I already have a 97 z24 so I am thrilled maby I can put one on each foot lol
The 2.2 l in the 99 rs has a rod knock
So now I am at the point of what have I got my self in to
Things my sister replaced before relinquishing the title
Rebuilt Tranny (first and reverse were gone)
Alternator (would not charge battery)
Thermostat (engine was over heating)
Exhaust (factory size she hit a rock in the middle of the road)
Issues we had when we got the car
Engine light was on:
Random cylinder misfire (engine stutter)
Cat (flashed a code)
Breaks grabbed and screeched
Things dad and I replaced/fixed when he got the car
Changed the engine oil (the oil was the viscosity of tar i am guessing she never changed it)
Ignition / Fuel parts
Plugs (were coated in carbon and way out of gap)
Coil packs (was missing on cylinder 1&3 replaced both coil packs)
Wires (was arcing off cylinder 3 to valve cover)
Injectors (were completely plugged)
Fuel tank (blobs of coagulated muck in the bottom of the tank)
Fuel pump/lines (just a precaution)
Fuel filter (when I replaced it weighed close to 5 lbs)
Suspension/ Breaking
Disc/drum (disc's had massive scratches and both disc's and drums were warped)
Break lines (have been completely flushed)
Break pads (were bare metal)
New wheel hubs in the rear (wobbled quite excessively)
4 brand new tires which if have on my z24 I am cheap and he's not using them
Cooling
Water pump (engine was overheating)
Coolant (was a light rustic color)
Cooling fan (was completely burnt up)
What kind of price range would I be looking at to rebuild the engine both the top end and the bottom?
I might have missed a few things that we replaced if you can think of any thing else that a person who didn't know how to maintain a vehicle would @#^& up please let me know
DAaaaaammmmnnnnnn......your sister needs a honda. ive seen at least a dozen with about a half pint of oil when i drained it out and they run fine.
tranny fluid? fittings on the tie rod ends? you've got a pretty good start.
Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.
im looking for some where around 250-300 hp all motor (later i would like to add a turbo)
sorry that was so long but i was trying to emphasise how badly taken care of this vehicle was when we got it
I am not really shure what else might be messed up so i would like to know what if any thing could be messed up so i can get a figure on a full engine rebuild.
My question is how deep will i have to dive in to rebuilding this engine.
2.2 vin t rebuild kit CCHP-02 $899 is there any thing else i would need?
Performance Cam (i have no idea what im looking for!)
performance crank shaft (i have no idea what im looking for!) im pretty shure the original is pretty chewed up
JBP crank and cam pros and cons?
what else would i need?
my sister just bought a brand new a brand new toyota tacoma so she takes to them for service every 2500 miles
The tranny was replaced 500 miles before she relinquishing the title and yes we checked all the fluids and flushed the radiator when we replaced the water pump
i think the only thing that wasn't completly ^%*$#! is the power steering pump and the the cv-axles
when we got the new tires (the steel belts were showing through on the old ones) we had les schwab check all the suspension thats how we found out that the wheel hubs in the rear were completely shot and the front disc's and rear drums were warped/ massively scratched
Okay Jimmy, how 'bout the struts? They sure don't last forever & are probably (over)due. As for the engine cost, well it's been said on this board many times (mostly by me) that the timing chain does need replacement by about 100,000mi or you'll be looking at disaster. And judging by the sound of your rods, I think it has already started. When the chain in mine leggo on the previous owner he had it replaced but the idiot wrench failed to remove the frags from the pan. These frags eventually found their way into the oiling system and got fed (in the following order due to oiling priority design) to the lifters & cam bearings, mains, then rods. I was able to replace the crank myself but the lifters & cam bearings were contaminated and continued to tick & knock like crazy. The damn thing sounded like a diesel and there was nothing I could do about it. Eventually they finally collaped and I wound up sending the truck off for a rebuilt engine. The engine was cheap but the transport nearly killed me ($3500.00 total). Hopefully this won't need to come anywhere near that for you: Before I swapped the crank, I bought a used engine from a '00 S-truck that had only ten miles on it. Yes, ten miles! Pulled the head just to check the cross-hatch to confirm it. The truck it was in fell off the transporter and was sold for parts. I picked-up the engine and auto transmission for a song, but found there were to many differences between it and my year to swap it easily into my app. So instead I went with a crank swap as you can probably figure at this point in the story. But the real point is this: I sold it to a buddy who thought of puttin' it in his '98 S-10, but wound-up gettin' into a bad wreck with it before he could do the work. Now it sits in his garage waiting for a buyer. That's where you may come in! He wants $150.00 for the engine alone, and you must come get it or no deal (Sorry, I don't do cross-country transit). It's along-block that fits all '98-up apps for the LN2 so it'll be a direct bolt-in. Sounds alot better than shelling-out $900.00 minimum for a rebuild, don't it? Whaddaya say?
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
It might actually cost me more to drive and pick it up im located in washington state so the drive alond might kill that idea (in my dads f1500) to IL it's like 1790 miles i would be looking at $850 just to drive over there plus several missed days of work @ $80 a day it would be cheaper just to rebuild it
Okay then... Next!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
The thing is i have done most to all of the work to the car my self (with the help of my dad and incompant older brother) so i would rether rebuild the engine.
I have built alot of lawn mower engines so i kinda know what im getting my self in to (ps thank's the guy who created the copper head gasket)
thank you Nickelin Dimer for all your input
Copper head gasket? that's only usable on engines that see no coolant (i.e.: air-cooled like lawn mower engines, and dragster engines with filled blocks)! Don't use copper head gaskets on the street, unless you'd like to retorque the head bolts every other day, or have coolant leaks. Use a Cometic MLS (Multi-layer Shim) gasket and you'll never have worries.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
i know what copper head gaskets are for i was referencing my lawn mower with about double the compression as a stock engine i was blowing head gaskets every 2 weeks or so
on this ill probably be using a Cometic Head Gasket it should last longer than stock and increase compression slightly
Okay, buh-bye!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
To OP:
if your looking for 250-300 hp from an LN2 then i would dish out the extra cash and go with the eagle rods as well, even though you might have trouble getting that much power all motor from the LN2 without spending ALOT of money going all motor or just building for boost. good luck on your build, and remember that repair manuals and ALLDATA are you friends.
what else would i need heres a couple of pictures
and oh yeah she opened the door and backed it in to a light poll and crumpled the driver side fender with the door. replaced door hinges, the fender and the ceil around the sunroof
can i use a boost cam with a non boosted car and just have it adjusted for advanced/retarded timing?
