I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possiable to use a link seperator to seperate the chain links. it would make my life so much easier.
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how hard is it loosen the tensioner and pop the chain off tdc and new chain that's it. not to bad i would say just do it the proper normal way.
It's a pain, but how many times do you really change a timing chain?
I cant see the colored links anymore. Plus it would hurt to have a new chain.
does anyone know the sepreration between the links? I wouldnt have to chain it then.
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Jcavi wrote:I cant see the colored links anymore. Plus it would hurt to have a new chain.
does anyone know the sepreration between the links? I wouldnt have to chain it then.
if your replacing it the new one should have makrs already, if your not replacing it and just removing and reinstalling take some touth up paint and paint the tooth of the gear and the 2 rollers on the chain that are touching it... do that on both cams and the crank and you can't possible @!#$ it up unless your blind.
....?
I cant see the colored links on the old chain, and I dont know where the cam gears and the crank gears link up to the chain. theres no color left really.
mabye Ill get better results this way.
1. can a chain link seperator be used on our automotive timing chains?
2. does anyone know the sepertation of the chain. it should be like color 10 color 60 color 50
thanks
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I don't see taking the chain itself apart to get it off benefits in any way?
even if you don't touch anythign on the gears and just remove the chain that still doesn't help becasue if the slack in the chain isn't in the right spot your timing will be off anyway.
Your beating a dead horse with these timing threads, if its that much of a problem just go buy a new chain which will still have marks and throw it on
I think were having a serious miscomuincation.
Youve taken the chain off an eco head right? then you know that getting it off the non adjustable guide (the black one on the oppisite side of the adjustable guide that the tensioner bolt rides on.) is the worlds biggest PITA to remove. To take that out you have to remove that bolt thats up against the frame rail, and the cut off tool trick doesnt work I dont care what anyone says.
If I can remove the link then the chain can just come out. I can remove the link on the new chain put it in reset the link, then match up the links, and time the car.
I really have no Idea what your talking about with the slack in the chain.
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something like this..
link separator Im going to check a bike store wensday.
The biggest thing I can see being a problem is the integrity of the chain. if once removed will it decrease strength. I really doubt it though.
could you imainge how easy this would make chain swaps.
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I never had any issues getting the chain off/out.
Quote:
The biggest thing I can see being a problem is the integrity of the chain. if once removed will it decrease strength.
you got it.
besides if you break the chain with a link separator, where you gonna get a master link from?
the chain is not meant to be separated this way.
just change the way its supposed to be changed.. could of had it done by now.
you guys didnt have a problem getting that black guide off? I cant get to the bolt on the side of my head to save my life. its weged against the frame rail, and even if you do get the bolt loose it tightens up agaisnt the rail before it comes out of the hole. is the fact that its an auto make a difference. I @!#$ you guys not I tryed for HOURS trying to get to that bolt in the end I ended up separting the head just to get to it.
didnt anyone run into the clearence thing?
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the thing youre looking for the hydraulic tensioner nut is on the back of the head, no? use a crescent wrench man, or jack the motor up a little to get the timing chain cover off, then let it down to work on it in the wheel well.
Although I must be honest I am not 100% sure where you're getting stuck
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
Since all you eco guys troll our 2.2l ohv threads...
Buy an OHV...
But in all seriousness cutting the chain is a much bigger task. Where are you going to get the master link from as well? (I think someone already asked that?) I'td be a much easier job to just do it the normal way.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=284296&t=281846#284296
Darkstars basically walks with you and holds your hand in this post...read it and love it.
Also for spacing issues do what I did worked great.
Jack the car up remove the passanger tire. Then using another jack, jack up the motor and remove both motor mounts. With the motor still jacked up carefully lower the car exposing the cover to both the wheel well and clearing the engine bay... Exposing every thing, the tensioner and the 10mm Hex bolt to expose the 10 mm bolt holding the black guide in. Its simple just relax, stop over thinking. I am actually studding the head and swapping the head gasket so I used darkstars steps to remove the timing set up then common sense for the head.
Im perfectly fine crossing the street , and I dont need anyone to hold my hand
. I just like to be careful.
Im assuming you havent gone for the studding yet?
Ive thought this threw and I have acutally used that meathod before, but its not about getting the motor up enough to get to the hex bolt, its about getting it up enough to get the upper motor mount off of the motor. so you can get to the bolt. and I havent been able to get it that high. I think I might be able to lower the motor down instead.
any thoughts?
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this has to be ebcause it's an auto
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
can someone wih a manual snap a pic of the bolt im interested to see if there really is a difference.
are you guys able to get to it with out removing the whole mount.
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which bolt? the tensioner on the back of the head or the actual bolt you need to use a 10mm hex key to remove?
no just the hex bolt I cant get to it with out pulling the head the damn motor mount is to big.
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
