Well.... From a sad story or Mariusz(judgez24) z, comes some even sadder news, I recently purchased the bottom end of Mariusz to help my build out, A nice heat treated crank, knife edged, Eagle-H-Beam rods, Wiesco forged pistons, high flow oil pump, ARP Main studs, and a block with some decent work done to it, I thought to myself sweet !, AND I was glad to help out a great guy get something out of the tragedy that was this motor. Well.... the curse of JBP STRIKES yet again. All 3 pistons were demoed, the oil pump was wasted, and the block has become scrap . The only slavage parts being the rods, crank, and main studs. and parts of the oil pump. NOW I am not mad at judge, the CRANK alone was worth worth what I spent so I am in no way angry at him, In fact im still happy with my purchase and would do it again, I took a risk purchasing knowing JBP had done this, so I knew what I was getting into.


NOW lets get back to the story of this motor. The whole sad part about all of this started back when Judge had JBP take 8 months, and to much money later to build him what should have been a GREAT motor. I mean, a done up crank, arp hardware all AROUND, Clevite bearings, H-beam rods, forged pistons, a done head, a high flow oil pump, a block with some oil passage work done.... This is a motor built to take power properly... Well in theory it is.....
You see all of this becomes USELESS if the motor is improperly assembled. You can spend 4 million dollars on parts, and still have it fail because of a half assed assembly. ASSEMBLY IS 80 % of the build ! SO please, in the future remember this when you tackle your own motor build. Take the time, and take the extra care to make it right. DO it right.

Now, how did Mariusz/Judge's motor fail ? YEP you guessed it. Poor assembly. Now let me describe to you what myself and 4 licensed mechanics discovered with this built motor. (one being a MT, the other having been a motor re builder, and the last 2 being really well rounded mechanics). and.. MYSELF... for what ever that counts......

1. All the main studs were placed in without any thread lock. (loctite) of any kind. This allowed for small movement within crucial pieces of hardware.

2. The "JBP HIGH FLOW OIL PUMP"... This is a decent piece, and it will work.. IF its assembled properly ! The pump was improperly pieced together, The little weird hex drive thingy (best way I can describe it, part of the drive assembly which powers the pump i guess), has a washer behind it, for what ever reasons this was not properly assembled period. It wore into the piece beside itself and caused a reduction in the engine oiling capacity.(From our best guesses) Thus depriving # 4 cylinder of oil. and causing complete failure. The other 3 pistons as well were marginally scarred, but #4 was utterly destroyed.(being the farthest away) The outcome is a pump that is scrapped, and a block that is finished..... and a toasted bottom end. (The piece responsible is circled.) TO top this, the motor was full of what I can best described as "metallic grey car oil paint lol". ALL the left over oil in every nook and cranny were infested with little bits of metal, very very fine, but everywhere, in the stud threads, over the rods, every where... TALK about friction and bad wear......




3. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN !....... Nope not this motor, nothing was properly cleaned when this motor was built. at ALL, you could see that pieces were cleaned somewhat, (the block being acid dipped), and what not, BUT what good is this if you let it get contaminated during your building process ? This was yet again another contributing factor with this motor, and while it wasn't the immediate reason for its failure, it would have adversely effected the life span of the motor.

4. There were LOTS of other little tiny nits and bits to pick at, but what is the point ? these 3 points above are major mistakes. and caused this whole mess.

On with pics now.

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/3782/0000962copyux6.jpg

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/628/0000963copytp6.jpg

http://img509.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0000967copyfu8.jpg

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/6241/0000969copyrs5.jpg

http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/6393/0000970copyzv8.jpg







My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"

Also I posted this up first @ the JCO

http://www.j-body.com/community/showthread.php?t=18457



My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"

wow.... lol



LE61T PTE6262 Powered

Is that a JBP balanced shaft assembly? If so can you take some better pictures of it?



FU Tuning

will do when I get some time*



My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"

Short Hand wrote:
1. All the main studs were placed in without any thread lock. (loctite) of any kind. This allowed for small movement within crucial pieces of hardware.

2. The "JBP HIGH FLOW OIL PUMP"... This is a decent piece, and it will work.. IF its assembled properly ! The pump was improperly pieced together, The little weird hex drive thingy (best way I can describe it, part of the drive assembly which powers the pump i guess), has a washer behind it, for what ever reasons this was not properly assembled period. It wore into the piece beside itself and caused a reduction in the engine oiling capacity.(From our best guesses) Thus depriving # 4 cylinder of oil. and causing complete failure. The other 3 pistons as well were marginally scarred, but #4 was utterly destroyed.(being the farthest away) The outcome is a pump that is scrapped, and a block that is finished..... and a toasted bottom end. (The piece responsible is circled.) TO top this, the motor was full of what I can best described as "metallic grey car oil paint lol". ALL the left over oil in every nook and cranny were infested with little bits of metal, very very fine, but everywhere, in the stud threads, over the rods, every where... TALK about friction and bad wear......

3. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN !....... Nope not this motor, nothing was properly cleaned when this motor was built. at ALL, you could see that pieces were cleaned somewhat, (the block being acid dipped), and what not, BUT what good is this if you let it get contaminated during your building process ? This was yet again another contributing factor with this motor, and while it wasn't the immediate reason for its failure, it would have adversely effected the life span of the motor.

As a professional engine builder and certified master tech myself, I would like to comment on the ideas you posted.
None of this moves the blame from JBP, but some of your info is incorrect.

1- There is no requirement to use loctite on the block end of the main studs. The lack of loctite had nothing to do with anything here, nor would it have caused a problem in the future.

2- I cannot decipher your description of the pump being assembled wrong, so I can't comment on it. But, there are issues with the rest of the statement that can be addressed,
#4 is not farther from the pump. Actually, it is exactly the same distance as #1 if you look at the oil passages.
Further, the scarring on your piston has nothing to so with the oil pump. The pump only feeds the bearings. The pistons are splash oiled by the spinning crank. The damage to the piston that is shown in the pics is caused by not enough clearance to the bore---- it was not bored big enough. The pistons tied to lock up in the bore when they got to temp.
The fine metal came from the pistons and cylinder walls.
"in the stud threads" is not likely to be. Maybe you are mistaking Moly lube for metal dust. Moly lube is silvery gray.

3- "CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN !....... " is correct and very important. In the past, it has been said to be an issue with JBP work, so you could be correct. But I cannot see how you could truly know that after the damage was done. There is no way to know what is new or old dirt.

sig not found

To me the 2.3 swap seems so much simpler. It just seems like a far better option to me.



FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!

Wade Jarvis wrote:To me the 2.3 swap seems so much simpler. It just seems like a far better option to me.

Simpler than what exactly?



FU Tuning

Simpler than the stock 2.4 oil pump and balance shaft setup.



FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!

protomec wrote:
"in the stud threads" is not likely to be. Maybe you are mistaking Moly lube for metal dust. Moly lube is silvery gray.

was def not moly. it had a metallic texture. MY descriptions are horrible, and my pictures are piss poor, so it is hard to really see .



My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"

Me re-thinks about ordering a few parts from them....

and also for protomec ^ the main studs were FINGER loose, and wobbly !, so something was wrong.



My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"

now im re-considering buy some of my hard-to-find parts from them


Built&Boosted moar
04 Cavalier Turbo r.i.p my baby
2nd place 2009 GM tuner bash qwick 8--holla

Short Hand wrote:and also for protomec ^ the main studs were FINGER loose, and wobbly !, so something was wrong.

I've never even heard of anyone using thread-lock on main studs, just moly lube or oil. I know I'd never do it...

Matt Tha G-MAN(broke eco) wrote:now im re-considering buy some of my hard-to-find parts from them

Parts are generally fine (unless it's for a 2200), just overpriced.





fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

wow sry to hear about your motor but hope it all works out





RIP JESSE GERARD.....Youll always be in my thoughts and prayers...

Short Hand wrote:and also for protomec ^ the main studs were FINGER loose, and wobbly !, so something was wrong.

You're right.
Lets rate the possibility that JBP just didn't torque them properly or at all.

sig not found

Short Hand wrote:and also for protomec ^ the main studs were FINGER loose, and wobbly !, so something was wrong.

were they loose with the nuts on them ?

or when the caps were pulled , were they loose ? its normal for studs to be put in finger tight , the studs dont pull on the threads tell you put the nut on and tighten them up


sucks to see all that happen

Wade Jarvis wrote:Simpler than the stock 2.4 oil pump and balance shaft setup.

Really? makes no sensoe to me how a stock oiling system is simpler than doing block work for a different oiling system.



FU Tuning