Definately not the ideal solution, but I guess it works.....
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
It doesn't look very precise and you'd have to increase timing by a set amount for your entire rpm band. I can see that being bad in the upper rpms.
all well and good, but through datalogging you'd find that very rarely is advancing or retarding timing in a totally linear fashion effective. Thats why its referred to as a "timing CURVE". Better to put the $50 in the piggybank for HPT.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
This would work for a standalone that required a external trigger... maybe.
Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:all well and good, but through datalogging you'd find that very rarely is advancing or retarding timing in a totally linear fashion effective. Thats why its referred to as a "timing CURVE". Better to put the $50 in the piggybank for HPT.
I agree 100%, but thought it was a neat idea nevertheless.
Wrench Monkey wrote:This would work for a standalone that required a external trigger... maybe.
A standalone doesn't know whether the trigger is casted to the crank or remote mounted. I think you meant like in the case of the EAGLE cranks for L61 owners that don't have the reloctor ring cast into the crank? If so, then yes, an external trigger wheel would benefit them by allowing them to use a standalone or even the stock pcm (standard GM 6x with sync notch).
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
i HAVE the original trigger wheel made...those are very nice effective wheel..come in handy in special occasions..like with my stroker when the cps needed relocated..it helps make a solution..i believe hes the one selling the stud kit for the cam carriers
Oh @!#$... I just saw that it was nukkinfuttz, lol. I definately didn't pay any attention to the seller at all when I posted this.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
This idea is not the way to go for voltage-generating crank-trigger systems (like on the LN2) that won't recognize the signal pattern coming from it. Best just get an experienced guy with a HPTuner, dyno & a laptop that knows how much total signal strengh coming from the knock sensor means dangerous amounts of spark advance to curve it for you.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
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This idea is not the way to go for voltage-generating crank-trigger systems (like on the LN2) that won't recognize the signal pattern coming from it.
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This would work perfectly with an LN2 providing it could be attached to the crank. There are situations where a bolt on wheel is an acceptable means to adjust timing quickly (race engine at the track on race day) or to provide a crank signal when none would normally exist. In the case of 88-95 Q4's, I would probably choose to purchase tuning equipment and possibly switch to an ecm supported by Tunercat / TunerPro to allow adjustment of timing and fuel where needed before choosing this solution. One downside is that changing the reference angle also changes cranking spark timing which could cause a hard start.
BTW, looks nice and reasonably priced.
-->Slow
