is there a certain sequence to install this...... if so what are the consequences if i don't follow it????
If you need to ask this question, this is NOT something you are ready to do. If you don't get the bearings on there correct you'll burn them all up, toasting your motor.
Either pick up an engine build manual (just about any engine works), and start reading. If you don't feel comfortable after that, find a local friend who has done this kind of thing and have them watch over you.
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just make sure you get the oil pump gear back on around the crank gear and the oil pump gear, its easy to forget and once you have it all together and say OH CRAP... you'll see why.
and always tighten from the center caps on out in a sprialing fasion.
Z yaaaa, I must disagree.
There is a number one rule in engine rebuilding that was always one of tirst things I try and remember...
There is never an ALWAYS for ANY procedure when working inside a motor. There is a correct procedure for tightening sequence on the LD9 and I am pretty sure it is something like 60ft/lbs then another 90 degrees of rotation. As far as sequencing, (which bolt to tighten when) there is as many procedures as there are engines.
Just remember, There is never an ALWAYS, and if you dont have the proper procedure and specs laid out for you, well you shouldn't be in this deep anyway.
Oh and as for what will happen... you DO like buying an entire rotating assembly to put into your possibly salvagable block right?
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
I think all zyaaaa was saying is tighten from the center out you know of coarse there's going to be a torque spec.
well unfortionetly for me i spent 9 grand on my motor and had it for less than 24 hours on the road it started ticking and then now i think i spun another bearing or something and for sequence goes on the crank i did not start from the center and there was a guy there watching over me because it was my first time and i wanted to learn so now my bottom end is wrote! i believe so now i am looking for a new rotating assembly
so option A will a 2.3 Ho crank work and give it more hp/ i thought i read something about making it a 2.8 dont quote me on this
B i read about the w41 motor could i use that block and use my 2.4 head and cams and 2.4 header and @!#$ that i bought for my 2.4
i don't want to go 2.2 ecotec because i have alot of money in the 2.4 and i dont wanna take a loss can someone help me out here because if im going to spend some money here on bottom end please help me pick the best setup and strongest setup for the most hp
thanks in advance
how the hell did you spend $9000 on a 2.4 that YOU built?!
and alex, i do agree with what you said.. there are definatly differences in engines and everything, but i was talking purely for the 2.4. i meant you need to tighten the main caps down from the center and work your way out going in a spiral.
How did you spend 9 grand on an engine and not by a $15 Haynes manual that tells you how to put it all together? Or a case of beer for a friend to do it for you? Hope you get it all figured out.
Shawn M.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
A 2.4 crank in a 2.3 makes a 2.6. The 2.3 crank doesn't work in the 2.4, and even if it did, the "ho" crank certainly wouldn't give you any HP. Just because the parts came from a higher HP motor, doesn't mean it will make your HP any higher. I don't believe the "ho" crank was physically any different from the non-ho motors.
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well i did spend give or take 9 grand cams header head job port and polishing intake throttle body machine and polished crank clutch ect ect ok so the 2.3 crank wont work can i match a 2.4 to a w41 block
Z yaaaa. Its cool dude, I dont mean to call you out and you are right with the LD9. you do tighten them from the center out in a spiral fashion. Just thought you meant that most motors are like that in which case they most definatly are not. Alot of differant sequences out there that I did'nt know about till I started getting into them.
Kalyn, You spent ALOT of money already. Way too much in fact. Even for the mods listed (like a pretty pointless unless your going max effort build, crankshaft polish) You still probably have gotten that done for all of about 4 or 5 grand. MAYBE.
You really need to get all the specs for the entire motor with all the torque sequences and such. nothing worse then having to rip an entire motor down and replace parts when all you had to do was spend an extra five minutes running through a procedure.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
the thing is i did go thought procedure 2 times because i had someone there telling me how to do it and i followed what he told me to do and it was not sequence
No you did'nt....
If you did not tighten from the inside out in a spiral fashion (You should have gone around 3 times) Then you did not go by procedure.
CORRECT procedure for the LD9 is to get all bolts in, handtighten till all the caps are seated and bolts landed. Torque each one to 20ft/lbs using the spiral outward from center. THEN torque to I believe 60 ft/lbs (check me on that one) spiraling outward again. The LAST step is to use a degree gauge and turn each bolt an additional 90 degrees. Spiraling from the center yet again.
Basically each bolt should have be graced by a wrench 3 times before you even thought you might have been done. If you did'nt even spiral from center you did'nt follow procedure and more then likely you shifted a main bearing or thrust washer in the process, not to mention possibly scored a crank journal.
Buildin' n' Boostin for 08' - Alex Richards
