Just wondering what cam most people are using. I am looking for more of a mid to high rpm cam. I also am looking for something with a decent increase in lift.


2001 Chevy Cavalier (Sandrift Metallic) 8 OHV of raw fury!

Two words: Use Search!!!

Go beyond the "bolt-on".

i only know of the cams that jbp makes but i hear the thing to do is get a cam regrind to the specs you want.

Just call comp and get a regrind....jbp os overpriced. But there are limitations due to the factory valve train. If you do some searching on the forums you will find quite a bit of info from madjack, slowolej, scarab, funky bottoms, and a few others who have posted up some very good info on the ohv.

importperformanceparts.net has cams for 2.2s. stage 1 & 2 and a turbo cam

You need supporting mods, but a stage 2 would be decent if you have them.


look up 2.2 LN2 performance. Mad jack helped me out a lot in a few of them.

Hmm... first i've ever seen that site before, almost thought they were going to end up being eco cams... the second thought to come to mind was that they came from whomever does JBP's grinds... but they're different specs, at least comparing between IPP and JBP's sites. Interesting....

As far as regrinds go, I believe it was Madjack who's pointed out several times that small block chevy V8 profiles will work on the LN2 cam, so any regrinder can help you select a profile that will work for your particular setup. I'm sure he'll chime in shortly...




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importperformance sells cams ground by a company in CA... I think it's web cams or webb cams? They're using new blanks, too. Still a bit pricey for me, but I'd love to get some "real" specs on 'em.

-->Slow

Mad Jack when you get on here I would like to know what your using. I see those v8 roller rockers im getting those for sure. I want to know what you think for a cam and as well as springs.


2001 Chevy Cavalier (Sandrift Metallic) 8 OHV of raw fury!

GM Power wrote:Mad Jack when you get on here I would like to know what your using. I see those v8 roller rockers im getting those for sure. I want to know what you think for a cam and as well as springs.

Jack has something like a 208 duration, 292 lift cam (Crane grind). I also have a Crane grind, in 206/313. Jack usually suggests something like 212-214 duration though, with a little extra (~4*) on the exhaust, after having the 208.
Also, you have a 2200, so your head would require machining for aftermarket springs.




fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

Here I come to save the day.... MadJack is on the way!!

GM Power, the problem we've run into is the valve springs and their seats/installed height on the '98+ 2200s. The stock springs will only handle .470" lift at the valve and they don't like a whole lot of rpms. 6250 rpm (the rev limit on these motors) is pushing the limits with these springs at stock lift values 0f .432". Any more lift or heavier valve train or too fast of a ramp rate and the springs will start valve floating, which is not good, it breaks stuff.

Another problem is the retainer size, which is .95" OD, as opposed to most SBCs size of 1.25" OD and the locks are unique to this motor. The LSx valve springs use the same diameter retainers, but the springs need an installed height of 1.80", while the 2200's installed height is 1.60". Machining the spring seats is a possibility, but have a competent machine shop check to see if the seats can be machined that much or not. You can use the pre '98 2.2L valves, which have a longer valve stem, but you'll still need to machine the spring seats, but not nearly as much. I see no problem with the small amount that would be needed to be machined off. You will need to get some custom made push rods, because of the taller valve stems and you'll need to make a valve cover spacer, because of the lack of clearance for the taller valve train.

As you can see one change on the motor leads to other problems. We just haven't come up with a simple solution yet (including all those listed/posted above.)

My recommendation, go to a salvage yard and get a used head and camshaft. Take the head to a competent machine shop and have them pressure test it, clean it, surface it (about .025"), port and polish it and get a valve job done. Get the +1mm over-sized valves from CarCustoms.net, a MLS hhead gasketfrom Cometic (thinner than stock, to increase compression), a head bolt set (ARP has head studs) and a set of new stock replacement valve springs. Do a full roller rocker arm conversion, but get the 1.5:1 rockers, not the 1.6:1s (this is to keep the valve lifts within a reasonable range).

Now for the cam. Call Crane Cams and talk to their tech, tell them what you've got and let them know that you want you cam ggroundas follows. Intake lobes ground with lobe # HR-204/286 ground one degree advanced. Exhaust lobe # HR-214/301, ground one degree retarded. This will give you a cam with the following specs: 204* in / 214* ex, Valve lift of .429" on the intake and .452" on the exhaust, an intake canter line of 108* and a lobe separation angle of 112*.

With the ported head with the over-sized valves, increased compression (from the HG and surfaced head), a header and full exhaust, a 2.3L TB conversion and get it dyno tuned and you be quite surprised! You should get a torque peek around 4000 rpm and a horsepower peek around 6000 rpm with a broad flat torque curve. This setup will give you more peek torque and horsepower than an Ecotec conversion and the torque band would be much broader. You would have a much quicker car, that is very drivable. With a good high flowing, but quiet exhaust and you would have quite a sleeper!

Ok so I can use the stock pushrods if I replace the springs with stock ones, and get the LS1 rocker arms (1.5 Lift)? I am right now just using the stock valves, getting the 3 angle valve job on them. I am also debating on using my fel-pro head gasket or using the MLS head gasket from Cometic. They are shaving the head down .015". I also have a nitrous wet fogger system coming for $250 never used but installed! I have ARP head studs coming as well. If there is anything wrong with what I said above please correct it and I will get something different. MadJack, you are the Cavalier GOD!


2001 Chevy Cavalier (Sandrift Metallic) 8 OHV of raw fury!

GM Power wrote:Ok so I can use the stock pushrods if I replace the springs with stock ones, and get the LS1 rocker arms (1.5 Lift)? I am right now just using the stock valves, getting the 3 angle valve job on them. I am also debating on using my fel-pro head gasket or using the MLS head gasket from Cometic. They are shaving the head down .015". I also have a nitrous wet fogger system coming for $250 never used but installed! I have ARP head studs coming as well. If there is anything wrong with what I said above please correct it and I will get something different. MadJack, you are the Cavalier GOD!

I would get aftermarket pushrods just to help with lift and valve bounce.
No, not LS1 rocker arms, read Jack's rocker thread.
You understand a 3-angle valve job doesn't actually consist of touching the valves, right?
I would shave the block .020 and use a Fel-pro gasket.




fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

I read the part numbers, must have mistook them for LS1's.


2001 Chevy Cavalier (Sandrift Metallic) 8 OHV of raw fury!

MadJack wrote: You can use the pre '98 2.2L valves, which have a longer valve stem, but you'll still need to machine the spring seats, but not nearly as much.

Ok, this just goes to show how much all of these numbers and measurements make my brain hurt when it comes to valvetrain, but the only difference between the pre-98 valves and the 98+ valves is length? I thought they were a different OD as well... I really need to do a better job documenting this stuff in my Word files, apparently my brain can't hold it all. So if the LS1 uses the same size retainer, does that mean that LS1 locks would work, or are their valve stems a different OD than the LN2 valves?




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Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:

MadJack wrote: You can use the pre '98 2.2L valves, which have a longer valve stem, but you'll still need to machine the spring seats, but not nearly as much.

Ok, this just goes to show how much all of these numbers and measurements make my brain hurt when it comes to valvetrain, but the only difference between the pre-98 valves and the 98+ valves is length? I thought they were a different OD as well... I really need to do a better job documenting this stuff in my Word files, apparently my brain can't hold it all. So if the LS1 uses the same size retainer, does that mean that LS1 locks would work, or are their valve stems a different OD than the LN2 valves?

Same valve face diameter on all 94+ valves (maybe earlier as well, but I wouldn't know).
LS1 uses different stem diameters, and possibly a different lock angle, so all we get from them are their beehive springs.
The trick with 97- valves in a 98+ head is that the relative valve stem heights are not the same between intake and exhaust, so you need to machine different amounts off of the intake and exhaust spring seats. This would also require different length pushrods between intake and exhaust (technically, but fudging is always a possibility here with adjustable rockers). I've heard someone has machined the 0.200" off successfully, which allows the stock 2200 valves and makes life a lot easier than swapping valves.




fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

Well, was randomly reviewing my files (that i was supposed to send out to a bunch of people and never did... SORRY GUYS! Working on setting up a wiki or maybe just a cheap geocities site to post them on so I don't have to be constantly sending them through email) and came across this:

Quote:

I needed a good cam. I did some research and calling and got Dema Elgin's number. He's the founder of Elgin Cams. He cuts cams for NHRA, SCCA, IHRA, NASCAR, and more. We discussed my needs and options and we came up with my cam. These are the specs - .423" lift @ valve; 272 duration both lobes; 110 degree lobe centerline; 52 degrees overlap; installed straight up. After I blew the rings out of the motor, I sent the cam out to California to be touched up since metal went through the motor. The cam was returned and I put it back in with the pistons. She runs great now.

-Scrufdog

For the new and/or uninitiated, Scruf was making 174whp NA on a 3 spd auto setup. He hasn't really been around in quite some time, so a lot of people don't know of him. Keep in mind, these cam specs aren't really "mild" so if you have to deal with strict emissions testing, or haven't ponied up for HPTuners yet, I'd use something more along the lines of what MadJack has suggested. Also, Scruf was running 10:1 compression.




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^^^ Those are awesome numbers for a N/A 2.2 Back in the mid 80s GM was getting 250hp out of N/A Iron Dukes (2.5l) The 2.5 is basically a SMB cut in half, which means the connecting rods, push rods and pistons are compatible.


___________________________________________________________________

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Actually the Iron duke was derived from the Pontiac V-8, which in a sense was cut in half longways to make a slanted I-4 at first. Later versions like that which were found in the Chevy Nova for many years were of a more "upright" design that incorporated a "cross-flow" head design through '78. The following year it went to a more "wedge" design that continued until the engine's discontinuation at the end of the '93 model year. Yes, there were special H.O. versions suposedly built for the Fiero but those used GMPP catalog parts that up'd the displacement to 2.7L for use in the Indy Pace Car for '85. I personally have found a fork-lift parts supplier who has recipocating assembly parts & long-blocks of this engine that give the Duke a longer stroke to bring it to 181ci (3.0L. Sorry, I can't recall what company that was and I've since lost touch with the friend who told me about them.). B.E., I think you might be thinking of Smokey Yunick's famous "Hot Vapor" engine that was a draw-through carburated turbo Duke that used a special fuel atomization-vaporization piece that took coolant that was super-heated by the turbo's turbine housing and fed through said part located in the inlet tract beneath the carb to vaporize the fuel drawn in by the turbo so it would reduce puddling and permit better fuel/air charge delivery & economy. "How much difference did this do?" you ask? It made 250hp and got 50mpg in the 2350lb 5-spd Fiero it was in. I've been wondering what kind of mileage it could've gotten had TBI had been used instead, but I digress. Anyway those Iron Duke hot parts are still found in the GMPP catalog which include a 4-bbl carb manifold if anyone is interested. Sorry if I seemed to jack this thread, but I felt that what I mentioned should be known. Please don't ban me...

Go beyond the "bolt-on".