Hello all,
I'm researching the possibility of upgrading my alternator and improving the electricals in my cavy (2002 2.2L SFi non-eco) now, i have come across the Powermaster Alternators, and i need to know your opinion about it. Now, i'm not running any ear-bleeding sound system....heck i don even have power windows! lol ...i'm all for the performance, but i will ad a "simple" sound set up with an amp and a sub (not too crazy thou)
I already have an optima red battery and Hyper ground systems cables...so your comments are greatly appreciated.
thanks.
**fresh**
Usally higher power alternators loose voltage at idle, for example my 200 amp excessive amperage will idle at 12.3 volts with nothing on but as soon as you hit the gas its pinned at 14.4. i say do the big 3 and keep your stocker
Yeah. I guess you are right. Besides it is cheaper. LOL.
Thanks dude.
**fresh**
Quick Question...how many amps does the stock alternator produces??
**fresh**
i believe its either 105 or 110 amps.
my 180 amp custom built alternator barely charges at idle, we metered it once and at idle it puts out 11.73 volts. but i do have an underdrive crank pulley as well. so thats why it sucks so bad. but yes, ive noticed that once you get her up into the higher rpms it really starts to come alive.
z yaaaa wrote:i believe its either 105 or 110 amps.
but yes, ive noticed that once you get her up into the higher rpms it really starts to come alive.
So, if I put in about 180 amp alternator I should see an increase in top end? I like that.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
it wont nessacarly drop idle voltage... Only if you order it wrong.. I purchased a 200amp from motorcityreman about two years ago for my beretta i ordered it with the smallest pully option. Sure enough they installed the wrong pully and your right it didnt charge for anything at idle... I called bitched a little and two days later the smaller pully showed up at my door installed it and voila! It ran at 13.7 volts idle and 14.4 at about 1200 rpms. so if you do go with a biger alt make sure you get a small pully....
Got the MRZ performance lightweight pulley, I guess that is not sufficient? Should spin faster, however not sure if it will charge. Where do you get a smaller pulley?
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
2 Dual 12 inch Kicker L7's in Kicker box with 2600 RMS (continous) amp OoooooH YEAH! I bought an alternator through springhillautoelectric.com back in the day, I believe it is a 220 or 240 amp alternator for the 2.4 LD9. Still have alternator dont really need it.... anyone need one!?????? Made my car lighter and now only have a freakin tweeter lol. Them damn L7's pounded hard as hell. The L7 retail priced at 500 freakin bucks for the 2008 models when they came out... Electronics is a BUNCH of bull crap the parts are easily cheap, yet turned around and SOLD for a crazy amount of price. Easily said 150 decibels with the L7's!...... My ears ring..... Tinnitus.
I know this thread is insanely old, but I'll bite, stock output is a claimed 105A though it hardly puts that out even at max output. generally the best you would see from a BRAND NEW alt is 95-99A. Currently I have a 160A one in my car that idles at 13.2V and at 14.6 at 2,000RPM. this is honestly the most anyone would really need on ANY set-up if it's done correctly.
JBO Stickers are back!!!! Click Me!!
Okay... Here's a couple of articles to look at:
The Powermaster Option
The AD-244 Option
Read both of these articles
carefully &
fully! And click on any links you find & read them
entirely just the same way.
When you're done, you'll truly have enough knowledge to make a wise decision.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
98grandamld9 wrote:2 Dual 12 inch Kicker L7's in Kicker box with 2600 RMS (continous) amp OoooooH YEAH! I bought an alternator through springhillautoelectric.com back in the day, I believe it is a 220 or 240 amp alternator for the 2.4 LD9. Still have alternator dont really need it.... anyone need one!?????? Made my car lighter and now only have a freakin tweeter lol. Them damn L7's pounded hard as hell. The L7 retail priced at 500 freakin bucks for the 2008 models when they came out... Electronics is a BUNCH of bull crap the parts are easily cheap, yet turned around and SOLD for a crazy amount of price. Easily said 150 decibels with the L7's!...... My ears ring..... Tinnitus.
I suppose I could use it... If it's price is reasonable compared to something new with less output. (Read the articles I posted links to above!)
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
To the OP: BTW, in-case you're wondering, the mounting points on alternator case for the LN2 & the LS-series of V-8s are the same... Only the stator windings &multi-wire plug's "clocking" is different. I've heard different arguments (Yes & no) of loosening the rear half of the case [without removing it] & repositioning it, but I'll let you do the research & decide.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
if it's any consolation , i got my alternator from iraggi and ebay store over a yr ago for 2.4 ld9 modified, for a massive stereo sytem, it is 320amp, at idle it's 14.7 volts at 180 amps, at 2500rpm's it maxes out at 318amps and voltage is at 15, but i also have a stinger voltage regulator that connects to altenator with digital display that can be place very neatly in car and you can also adjust voltage, i usually keep it at 14.5 now during the hot month's and during cold weather i'll drop it a bit more... cold weather the voltage gets a bit higher due to lower temps.. dont know if they have it available for 2.2 noneco..
iraggi alternators make sum good alts, i have a 320 amp for my ld92.4 cost me 479.00 i got it cause i needed it for my massive stereo system 4 1200rms planet ausio amps pushing 2 planet audio bigbang 15's walled off, 2 massive military hummer deep cycle batts, stinger 50 farad cap dbl o gauge thru out, altenator puts out 14.7 volts at idle and 180 amps, maxes out at 318 amps at 2500 rpm's and voltage goes to 15, i also have a stinger voltage regulator thats adjustable to 16 volts but i have it set at 14.7, it has a digital display that can be mounted in car, so far so good no problems with electrics at all, lights brighter, better volyage all the way around and its really helps with my 161.5 legal spl..outlaw spl 164.9...iraggi alternators can be found on ebay store...
Take your total wattag that you will be using from your car accesories and your amp. Wattage. And divide that by 14.4 . That will give you the amps that your alt should be pushing. So if your car and your amp total wattage is 2880 watts divide 2880 by 14.4 and youll need a 200 amp alt. And they have 200 amp alts on ebay for pretty decent prices
^Just because they're of decent prices, it doesn't mean they're decent units. I mean, c'mon... Did you fully read all the links that were posted on the topic? A lot of these "decently priced" high-output alternators are lacking in one component or another (Double-wound stator, rectifier...) that would make them truly good units, but instead they're "cheesed-out" upon & end-up producing even less amperage at idle--Where I'm sure it matters most for you sound-system guys--than the stock unit did, resulting in a "under-volt" condition that drains the battery(s)... And that's what we're trying to avoid by this upgrade.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Yes they are good quality. I had one in my car for about three years before my new earrthquake. Phd 3000 Finnaly turned it into jelly. I ran that amp at .75 ohm, so its rms wattage was higher then its normal output at 4 ohms. It was painfully loud. I have no reason to have anything that loud in my car.
