can anyone explain these ??
NARROW BAND OXYGEN SENSORS
ased to wide band ?? whats the difference .?
are these the type that are on our cars ???
99 2 Dr 2.2 5 Speed
ive put on a full aem CAI and a rather large cat and catback exhaust ...
ive picked up a piller and guage for a/f ratio to hel out the new addons and oil pressure guage as well ....
any help would be great
Narrow band only detects 14.7:1 AFR. Wideband can sense all AFR's
now which one is in our cars ??
or is it an option of both ?
All jbody cars come stock with a narrow band gauge. Most all cars come stock with narrow band gauge, infact I can't think of a car that comes stock with a wideband. The wideband will be much almost a needed part for tuning if you ever go boosted. However if all you plan to do is bolt ons than I would not worry about shelling out 300+ for a wideband.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
thanks ..... wasnt planning on buying one actually ...... picked up some piller guages and the air to fuel guage needs the narrow
besides if you're running rich under WOT
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
636 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
darestie wrote:Narrow band only detects 14.7:1 AFR. Wideband can sense all AFR's
Incorrect. They can see a range of AFR but the error grows wildly as you get too far away from 14.7. You should be able to see from about 14.1 to 15.3.
darestie wrote:Narrow band only detects 14.7:1 AFR. Wideband can sense all AFR's
FoMoCo
Audi
BMW
Benz
Very few GM
^^^^
Honda
Volvo
VeeDub
-->Slow
Yes VW, too!
Basically, it is just overkill to have a WB in car. They don't calibrate the car to be modified. Generally, you are going to have a tune before the AFR goes that far off.
You can find most AFRs with a narrowband sensor by using a math equation and swinging the AFR at a given rate even though it is only good for a NARROWBAND.
If you go over to www.tuneyourengine.com on their fourm they tell you that equation to follow to get the AFR out of the NB sensor. It is cheaper to use a NB but takes more computer time.
The WB works by pumping Free Oxygen in and out of a pump cell. This magnifies the reaction compared to a NB. Certain % of Free Oxygen give off a certain voltage. The module translates that into a AFR.
Because WB is only FREE OXYGEN and you have 5 important gasses in exhuast you have to be careful. Not everyhing you see on your WB is TRUE. Remember the WB sees free oxygen and not AFR.
Quote:
Basically, it is just overkill to have a WB in car. They don't calibrate the car to be modified. Generally, you are going to have a tune before the AFR goes that far off.
Agreed. A WB is not a mandatory part of tuning, but it sure can save bunches of time when a base cal is a long way from "right."
For the OP, the narrow band sensor is a cheap way to keep the air:fuel ratio close to the stoichiometric ratio, which is the ideal ratio required for the most air to react with the most fuel. Since the NB sensor is most accurate at this balanced AFR, the ecm / pcm will use a strategy of bouncing from a tiny bit too rich to a tiny bit too lean, crossing back and forth across this balance point, to keep the emissions at the lowest level.
Newer cars or cars programmed to use a WB sensor use different control strategy than the "Bang bang" rich-lean method used in NB systems. Part of the goal is to tickle maximum lean operation which conserves fuel but keeps emissions low. Another part of the goal is to maintain lean best power without fear of engine damage. GM is now confident enough in their tuning to keep an engine at stoich at WOT as many of the Ecotec J car owners have learned.
From a tuning perspective, street typically results in probably 70-95% of the driving experience happening under conditions which are not wide open throttle. Tuning can be accomplished during these times with the NB sensor, factory ecm, and datalogging software. You drive the car and monitor or log the "short term" and "long term" corrections which are a record of how much fuel the ecm is adding or removing to keep the engine at the magical "stoich." Then you get into the tuning software to increase or decrease fuel delivery to try and bring the corrections as close to zero as possible. If you're patient and persistent, you can often tune a car on the street using this method well enough that it can pass the typical state emissions test. The WB makes it easier to dial the AFR closer to best power (but without a dyno, how do you know you're at best power?). The most difficult area to tune for the amateur is cold startup. The WB is typically not effective due to insufficient heat, and you've only got a short window of time to get everything logged that you need to see.
BTW, I'd put EGT in the gauge pod. Even with an NA engine you can use it to monitor engine performance.
-->Slow
