Is it easier to pull the subframe and lift the car or seperate the tranny from the motor and pull it out with a cherry picker?
------------------------------------------------------------
For me I say undo all the coolent lines and AC lines. Then undo the main harness and just pull everything out together after the axels are taken out unless you want to just pull the motor out. It gets tight but the flywheel bolts are easier to do out of the engine bay.
Its much easier to pull out the top as mentioned above. you can pull the whole tyranny and motor out the top in one piece, just disconnect the axles.
___________________________________________________________________
Mitsu TD06-20g |3" Downpipe w/ Cutout | 61mm Bored TB |
HP Tuners | Innovate WB02 | Spec Stage 3 | TurboTech Upper | Full Addco Sways | Sportlines & Yellows |
pop out the axles, unhook all the lines and get an engine leveler.
You have to tilt the engine towards the driver side to get it out with the trans.
-Chris
depends if your auto or standerd... i have pulled lots of these engines now and with a standerd trany unbolt the engine/trany mounts and lower the engine to the ground and set it on something soft like a few layers of thick cardboard or something then use your picker and hook it up to the front of the car (i went threw the shock mounts and down the the K memember on either side and used the picker to lift the front end up and then i just slide the engine out ... very easy
if its an auto, disconect the engine and trany and the engine just pulls up out of the top easy...
if you lived near me id say bring it by and id have you drive in friday night and have you leaving saturday night with the new engine in
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
if your not gonna do anything to the tranny (which you should install an LSD and mounts) then just split the engine/tranny and take just the engine out. you dont even need to take the axels out if you leave the tranny.
pull it out from up top. we had to have to take the timing chain cover off in order for it to slide out of the trans enough to pull out.
12.5@116 2.0 60ft
question for you..what you doing with the mounting brackets on the engine?(left upper)
hmmm, i always thought it be easier to drop the engine from the bottom. learn something new everyday
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
99redz24 wrote:hmmm, i always thought it be easier to drop the engine from the bottom. learn something new everyday
how would dropping the entire subframe be easier then just taking off the hood and pulling it from the top?
John H helped me get my motor out, I did just the motor out the top, took me abouit 15 minutes to get it out after I had the all the liens and sensors unhooked and tranny unbolted
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
z yaaaa wrote:if your not gonna do anything to the tranny (which you should install an LSD and mounts) then just split the engine/tranny and take just the engine out. you dont even need to take the axels out if you leave the tranny.
Yea I might as well, this is gonna get pricey though haha
might as well go all out while I'm at it though.
------------------------------------------------------------
When I did mine I removed the hood and pulled both the engine and transmission together out the top. That was very easy. Getting it in was more of a challenge since the transmission got caught on evrything. If you pull it out the top you will want to angle it so the engine is tipped up higher than the transmission.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Instead of disconnecting the AC lines wouldnt it just be easier to seperate the AC compressor from the motor so I wont have to have my AC recharged?
------------------------------------------------------------
^^^^ Yup, just disconnect the compressor from the block. I find it easier to pull the engine from the top.
Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132
cavmania wrote:Instead of disconnecting the AC lines wouldnt it just be easier to seperate the AC compressor from the motor so I wont have to have my AC recharged?
Good call thats the reason my A/C hasn't been hooked up for over a year now, not that I ever used it.
___________________________________________________________________
Mitsu TD06-20g |3" Downpipe w/ Cutout | 61mm Bored TB |
HP Tuners | Innovate WB02 | Spec Stage 3 | TurboTech Upper | Full Addco Sways | Sportlines & Yellows |
cavmania wrote:Instead of disconnecting the AC lines wouldnt it just be easier to seperate the AC compressor from the motor so I wont have to have my AC recharged?
That is how I did mine.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Wade Jarvis wrote:cavmania wrote:Instead of disconnecting the AC lines wouldnt it just be easier to seperate the AC compressor from the motor so I wont have to have my AC recharged?
That is how I did mine.
seems a little smarter to save $$
------------------------------------------------------------
listening very closely to this thread....
on the compressor deal, yeah just unbolt it from the block. however it might become a pain later when your putting the engine back in as it will just be 'there' lol, try and strap it down and out of the way. same goes with the power steering and all the other ish you dont need to be removing.
At the Ford dealership i used to work at all the Techs dropped the motors and trannys out the bottom. Anyway i would remove the tranny with the motor anyway u do it, you will have alot more room to remove and reinstall the tranny to the motor. I know it was alot easier when i did the motor in my Grand Prix. Thats my 2 pennies.
You ask why?, I ask why not?
03' Base Coupe Cavy
ECOTEC, 5-speed
2001-2002 Z/24 Trunk Conversion
+ Smaller Things
