Besides weight reduction how does this N/A setup look. I'll be going N/A here soon and wanted to know what others thought of the future mods so lemme know, also if you think i should make a change lemme know. Thanks.
I already have:
- Vibrant Exhaust
- DC Sport Header (will find out tomorrow if they can get put on or what?)
The N/A setup will be something along the lines of:
- HP Tuners
- Injen SRI
- Big Bored TB
- Neutral Balance Shafts
- Adjustable Cam Gears
- Eagle H-Beam Connection Rods
- Stage 1 Comp Cams
- Ferrea Valve Spring Kit
- Forged Crankshaft
- Maybe Pistons?
- Maybe Patriot Head?
Some type of fuel mangement. I'm thinking AEM UEGO? And of course weight reduction. Carbon fiber hood & trunk. Much more weight reduction just aint sure what .
- 2003 CHEVY CAVALIER LS SPORT ECOTEC -
- Current Mods -
-- Vibrant Exhaust & DC Sport Header --
-- Lower Motor Mount & TTR Upper Motor Mount --
-- B&M ShiftPlus & Vibrant Front STB --
-- K&N Typhoon Short Ram Intake --
RIP DAD<3 We love & miss you so much!
from what ive heard dont bother with the adjustable cam gears..they suck..forged crank again is in no way at all needed..pistons wouldnt be a bad idea if you are going to raise the compression otherwise keep them stock..again i wouldnt bother doing rods unless you are changing the pistons..after you save all that money id definatly go with a loaded patriot head, maybe lightweight pulleys, flywheel, higher stage clutch, tranny mounts...kinda the same setup i got goin...phil
If you are going to have HPt then you do not need a fuel mangement system. HPT can do that for you.
FU Tuning
just like higgins said...HPT does everything so you wont need a different fuel management..also, if you want to go NA..this would be my list of what i would have planned..
Block bored and honed, 1mm oversized pistons, rods, cams, built head, fuel pump, bigger injectors, fuel rail, everything you need to be able to Rev out to 8-9000 rpms...
just a suggestion but you will need to build your motor with high compression (12:1-13.1) then you will prob see some power.
dude, your car is
too heavy to be fast all motor.
I hope you plan on ditching your a/c system, power windows, power locks, and ripping out the sunroof glass and mechanism for a sheet metal blockoff in the list of weight reduction you're planning.
just get a turbo kit and have a shop custom make you some charge pipes. thats the only reason there's no off-the shelf kit for an auto.
Definatley p&p the head, also go with 1mm oversized valves. Comp Stage 1 is weak, If your already going to have HPT go with at least stage 2's maybe even 3's. I'd say boost compression to 11:1, I know someone on here already has done it. The rods are your choice, you don't need them though, don't do cam gears. Valve springs are only if you change the rev limit to over 8,000rpm's then you really need them.
DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - BPU++ wrote:dude, your car is too heavy to be fast all motor.
I hope you plan on ditching your a/c system, power windows, power locks, and ripping out the sunroof glass and mechanism for a sheet metal blockoff in the list of weight reduction you're planning.
just get a turbo kit and have a shop custom make you some charge pipes. thats the only reason there's no off-the shelf kit for an auto.
I have a sunroof and my car is fast. LOL.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
ur already N/A... you cant 'go n/a'
id def. say stage 1 cams aint going to be enough.
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) - BPU++ wrote:dude, your car is too heavy to be fast all motor.
I hope you plan on ditching your a/c system, power windows, power locks, and ripping out the sunroof glass and mechanism for a sheet metal blockoff in the list of weight reduction you're planning.
just get a turbo kit and have a shop custom make you some charge pipes. thats the only reason there's no off-the shelf kit for an auto.
I have a sunroof and my car is fast. LOL.
Yeah, but I bet you don't have a 1600watt sound system to help weigh you down
If you ever want to be fast NA, you got to lighten that thing up, first thing to go: 1600 watts of annoyance...
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
I think to tell this person there car is too heavy to go N/A is wrong. He did not post saying I want to be soo fast. He has already decided to go N/A and is posting up a list of what he thinks. I do agree weight works against you, but it does that regardless of boost or N/A. 200whp is just that 200whp.
Truly if it was me and money has any issues in this build, then I would do a build like PJ did on his stock motor. I would push the compression higher, but use the factory bottem end. Nice head, or head work, larger valves, good cams. Some good dyno time and tuning with HPT. I beat more than 200whp would be gotten.
FU Tuning
Philly D wrote:from what ive heard dont bother with the adjustable cam gears..they suck
wrong.
Quote:
..forged crank again is in no way at all needed..pistons wouldnt be a bad idea if you are going to raise the compression otherwise keep them stock..again i wouldnt bother doing rods unless you are changing the pistons..
all very bad advice. forged crank and rods can be better balanced, and are stronger than factory peices. n/a cars can and DO blow up. Pistons.. duh you can raise compression. higher compression = more power = more strain. Higher rpm = WAY MORE STRAIN than power will put on the bottom end. an all forged bottom end wouldn't be a bad idea, however the factory crank is 'supposedly' good to 500hp. at the minimum bump up compression and change out the rods.
Quote:
after you save all that money id definatly go with a loaded patriot head, maybe lightweight pulleys, flywheel, higher stage clutch, tranny mounts...kinda the same setup i got goin...phil
agreed.
Quote:
David Arestie
Definatley p&p the head, also go with 1mm oversized valves. Comp Stage 1 is weak, If your already going to have HPT go with at least stage 2's maybe even 3's.I'd say boost compression to 11:1, I know someone on here already has done it.
agreed
Quote:
The rods are your choice, you don't need them though,
not true, especially since the mystical failure is 280crank hp.. that is attainable n/a
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don't do cam gears.
wrong. I have a very good source saying that cam tuning helps quite a bit depending on the cams you're using. don't let people who have down-talked them who never properly used them for tuning say 'they suck' when in reality their opinion is based on data froma butt dyno.
Quote:
Valve springs are only if you change the rev limit to over 8,000rpm's then you really need them.
wrong again. valvesprings would be a good idea for anything over 7200rpm seen frequently ESPECIALLY with aggressive cams. more lift = less time for springs to shut valves. you can't spin more rpm and use a higher lift cam without upgrading the valvesprings.. you will float valves and if you don't know what it means, you don't want to find out.
also, keep in mind the ecu's hardcoded rev limiter is 8192rpm. even with hpt it WILL NOT rev higher than this without a stand alone ecu.
but I digress, a fully loaded car going for n/a is not a wise investment. n/a is a money and labor intensive path and unless you have an already lightweight car to begin with, isn't really worth the trouble. You're going to waste a lot of money and be disappointed with the numbers the car will pull because of its porkly nature.
I agree with 99% of PJs post.
The one thing that very few people know, and PJ you know this, is that our #1 NA Ecotec.....has 8.9:1 compression pistons in it. Food for thought.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Alright i'm not sure now. I'm thinking turbo? I've been jumping back and forth. If i went turbo it'd have to be custom since its an auto so should i buy a kit, hahn stage 2 turbo kit, and then take it to a shop and tell them that some pipes will need to be customized or would it be better if i bought it piece by piece? IF it'd be better to go piece by piece what do i all need to purchase. And i'm talking price wise when i say better, would it be cheaper or more expensive?
- 2003 CHEVY CAVALIER LS SPORT ECOTEC -
- Current Mods -
-- Vibrant Exhaust & DC Sport Header --
-- Lower Motor Mount & TTR Upper Motor Mount --
-- B&M ShiftPlus & Vibrant Front STB --
-- K&N Typhoon Short Ram Intake --
RIP DAD<3 We love & miss you so much!
I'd really like turbo but the idea of it being custom makes me thing not? Any idea of the extra cost of having the pipes redone?
- 2003 CHEVY CAVALIER LS SPORT ECOTEC -
- Current Mods -
-- Vibrant Exhaust & DC Sport Header --
-- Lower Motor Mount & TTR Upper Motor Mount --
-- B&M ShiftPlus & Vibrant Front STB --
-- K&N Typhoon Short Ram Intake --
RIP DAD<3 We love & miss you so much!
Piecing a kit together can be a lot cheaper, if you know what your doing. Don't be afraid to do some research and see what its gonna take to make your own kit.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Quote:
The N/A setup will be something along the lines of:
- HP Tuners
- Injen SRI
- Big Bored TB
- Neutral Balance Shafts
- Adjustable Cam Gears
- Eagle H-Beam Connection Rods
- Stage 1 Comp Cams
- Ferrea Valve Spring Kit
- Forged Crankshaft
- Maybe Pistons?
- Maybe Patriot Head?
I have about $5000 in my setup just to let you know.
Quote:
I hope you plan on ditching your a/c system, power windows, power locks, and ripping out the sunroof glass and mechanism for a sheet metal blockoff in the list of weight reduction you're planning.
thats about 300 lbs , i know
Quote:
The one thing that very few people know, and PJ you know this, is that our #1 NA Ecotec.....has 8.9:1 compression pistons in it. Food for thought.
Quote:
I have a very good source saying that cam tuning helps quite a bit depending on the cams you're using.
Hey thats me
Quote:
200whp is just that 200whp.
im at 180whp and 153tq as of 7-6-07 with 12.5 pistons, stage 3 cams, P&P head, HP Tubners, Factory intake, 4-1 header
Thats all i can quote for now
-Ben
Overall Best times
60' - 1.857* (6/24/07)-(Drag Radials 205-50-15)
330' - 5.552* (6/24/07)
1/8 - 8.702* (6/24/07)
M.P.H.- 79.49 (6/17/07)
1000' - 11.388* (6/24/07)
1/4 - 13.671* (6/24/07)
M.P.H.- 100.79* (6/17/07)
Great Lakes Dragaway (6/24/07 Import Wars #3)
* - First run on the day set NEW all motor record
next run backed up record by 1% (slip in profile)
** ALL MOTOR **
* 160.9whp @ 6394rpm *
Website: www.benwenzeljr.com
Hey RFOGLAX,
There is always a choice between NA and Boost. Its a hard one but i'm doing something in between the two. Im going to build my engine with 9.5:1 compression, low enough to boost yet good enough for power to be made all-motor. An instead of running all-motor or boosted at all times, I'm going to spend $650 extra and buy myself a nice NX wet kit jetted for 75HP. Nitrous is a blast and one minute you can be getting whooped on, next you can be smiling driving past them!!! I've seen Nitroused Dodge Neons runnning mid 11's with a midly built engine and a 100 shot. Im stopping here for you.
