i have a 98 cavy with the 2200 series engine with auto tranny...
I have , cold air intake, throttle-body spacer, header, high-flow cat and magnaflow cat-back exhaust..
I know i definately need the 2.4 engine, but is there any thing else i can do to this 2.2 to give it some more HP?? like cam, manifold, or head?? im pullin mid 16's in the quarter, but i would like to see 15's or maybe 14's... (with-out boost)
I heard that the TB spacers don't do crap, so thought I'd put that out there. Then you can light weight flywheel and pullies (underdrive if you don't have accesories), then motor mounts. The problem is, it's hard to find parts for the 2200 since it's kind of pointless to build. If I were you, I'd take a deep breath and swap in an eco engine, then build that. Once you hit the wall, on your 2200 and can't build it anymore for a reasonable price and notice that you're 2200 can make the same times as a near stock 2.2 eco. Oh, or you can go rice and put on a ten inch wide tail-pipe, that's worth like what, 500 Horsepower. lol. j/k. I know it sucks, but swap for an eco.
He has an auto = no flywheel
steve wrote:i have a 98 cavy with the 2200 series engine with auto tranny...
I have , cold air intake, throttle-body spacer, header, high-flow cat and magnaflow cat-back exhaust..
I know i definately need the 2.4 engine, but is there any thing else i can do to this 2.2 to give it some more HP?? like cam, manifold, or head?? im pullin mid 16's in the quarter, but i would like to see 15's or maybe 14's... (with-out boost)
why no boost? From what I understand, you'll need boost to really see much from our engine.
Realistically no matter what you do - as far as a N/A build up - your not get the 2200 ohv motor to produce over about 190hp (at the crank).
Still due to the car's lighter weight that may be enough for you to produce upper 14's to low-15's in the 1/4.
But if you want more power - in the long run your better off swapping it out for a LD9(2.4L TC) or L61 (Ecotec) motor.
The LD9 swap would be easier for you, unless you can get an entire donor car equipped with the L61, that swap entails switching over the entire wiring harness of the vehicle, from tail-lights to headlights, and every strand of copper between. Definitely not for the faint-hearted or shallow-pocketed.
If you want 14s NA, add cam regrind + shaved and ported head + .030" head gasket + pushrods + torque convertor = 700, and you still have 2200 reliability.
If you want a lot of NA power, you need a DOHC.
If you want to boost, keep what you have.
If you want a lot of boost, keep what you have.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
^^Notec, Do you know what the .030" Head gasket puts the compression at on stock internals??
Matt Linke wrote:^^Notec, Do you know what the .030" Head gasket puts the compression at on stock internals??
Which motor (what year)?
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
kj1168 wrote:Realistically no matter what you do - as far as a N/A build up - your not get the 2200 ohv motor to produce over about 190hp (at the crank).
Still due to the car's lighter weight that may be enough for you to produce upper 14's to low-15's in the 1/4.
But if you want more power - in the long run your better off swapping it out for a LD9(2.4L TC) or L61 (Ecotec) motor.
IIRC Scruffdog had a 13.3 sec N/A 2.2 OHV w/3 speed auto. I don't remember what he did to it though. I do seem to recall seeing independent throttle bodies though. I believe he did that with the 2.2L OHV before I heard of anyone getting a N/A 2.4 in the 13s. Either way its possible to get a 2.2L OHV there. The cost will add up though - although not as bad if you have access to the right equipment and you're pretty good at fabricating things.
As for the original poster - you confuse me. You state "I know i definately need the 2.4 engine" but in the mean time you want to pour money into the 2.2?
Don't pour money into an engine you're gonna replace. I'm not sure why you're objected to boost. If you're willing to put in the time and $ that it takes to swap a 2.4, then why not invest that into going turbocharged on your current engine instead? You'll get a better power return for your investment than a swap would provide.
If you really want to spend some money you can have the 2.2 rebuilt with over-bored forged pistons etc - That way it could handle a ton of boost(and the overbore increases displacement). It couldn't hurt(N/A or boosted) to port your head and oversize the valves a little. You also might want to go with higher ratio rocker arms(more valve lift for better flow), stiffer valve springs, and stronger pushrods etc - so you can safelty rev higher.
Also - whatever route you take - invest in HP Tuners software. All my cars are OBD1 but yours is OBD2 so it will work for you.
I've never heard of this "part throttle" before. Does it just bolt on?
Scruf ran N20.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
+1 for 2.3L Throttle body.
have you thought about weight reduction? ditching weight will be like adding horsepower only cheaper.
Working on obtainting an M-Class license... ?? Hint: 2 wheels.
Quote:
throttle-body spacer
why do people continue to think this actually does anything?
if you're hell bent on n/a power and plan on staying there... swap the motor to a 2.4
if you want lots of power (300whp capable or more) with medium to high boost swap the motor with a fortified 2.4 or buy an eco equipped jbody and fortify that motor
if you want decent power with low boost (200-250whp or less than 15psi) stick with the ohv and just fortify it.
believe me, i've been on both sides of the fence. if you want to seriously get into racing and making the car faster swap to a 2.4 or buy an eco jbody. you won't regret it. ever.
The DOHC engines are better in every way. if it was me, I'd just save up for the LD9 swap, and get a manual transmission while you're at it (learn to drive stick, if that's why you have an auto, it'll be worth it), preferrably the Getrag (F23, I think). the quad/twin engines will take boost just as well, if not better than what you have. the eco could be a better engine (aluminum vs. iron block...), but, as someone else said, it will be a much more involved swap.
