i know I am goin to get flamed for this but my 2200 3 speed cavy used to be able to screech tires when brake torqued. But my car wont do it anymore. I installed the rksport lower and upper engine mounts now and it didnt help cuz i thought the mounts were wore. my mods are CAI, ported and polished head, plug wires, rk sport mounts, fart can, and new general tires i dont know if the tires helped my traction that much but im completely lost but any help is appreciated
Well... You could have worn your flexplate enough to cause it to not grab like it use to.
What tires were you using before? How many miles were on them?
-Matt
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do you want to spin them? i mean because traction is what you want. if you got good traction then your good man. it doesnt feel like its slipping at all does it?
ok, sorry to go off on a tangent here... but i have to make a point.
BALD tires will actually give you BETTER traction on DRY pavement because there's more rubber on the road. (think of it like a drag slick, only without the soft rubber)
the only thing i can think of is u installed more HP parts and you moved the powerband up so the torque isnt around like it used to be.. idk tho, did u install the majority of the mods before or after the car would 'screech' the tires
either way im sure ur car is running just as good as it ever was, if not better... just because it wont 'screech' the tires doesnt mean its slower. after all, its just a 2200 auto, im surprised it would bark em' at all.
hahaha 'bark em'
I had a 2200 auto, and it had a rev limiter that if the engine was over 2100 it would not shift into first from a stop, however you could hold it at 2000, then shift and a second later floor it and it didn't do a bad job.. It wasn't constant, and I'm sure I wasn't doing it any favors.. But it did do it.
-Matt
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WhitePhatt wrote:Well... You could have worn your flexplate enough to cause it to not grab like it use to.
-Matt
?!?!?! How would it not grab? Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the Flexplate bolts to the converter so it shouldn't slip unless the converter is going out...........if the car was a manual the Flywheel wouldn't be worn the friction disc or pressure plate would be.......
Im having the same issue, only because i beat on my car like all hell... Only because Im going to replace the worn/broken parts with better ones, and I wont do it without a good reason. Possibly that the TC is going out, Does it slip when it shifts? Does it take longer to fall into gear when its shifting?
Installing parts that give more HP i can understand, but I had them on my car, and she could still "bake 'em" with all the mods from a brake torque, untill the TC started going out...
Im still waiting on my Yank
WhitePhatt wrote:Well... You could have worn your flexplate enough to cause it to not grab like it use to.
What tires were you using before? How many miles were on them?
-Matt
Wow.... just.... wow..... Do me a favor, and if you don't know a damn thing about how something works, don't try and give advice on how to diagnose a problem with it, ok?
The flexplate is bolted to the torque converter, which acts as a fluid coupling betwen the engine and the transmission. The vanes inside the If your flexplate is slipping, your car isn't moving, PERIOD, and chances are you have stubs of what used to be bolts stuck in your crank now. Since I would probably mutilate this by trying to paraphrase, and the pics help to understand, here is how the torque converter works
http://www.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter2.htm. All the flywheel does is mount the torque converter to the engine, the torque converter is what "slips" to allow you to stop the car without stalling the engine, even though the engine and transmission are never fully disconnected in an auto trans vehicle (while in gear).
Now, to the OP.... What mileage are you at, when was the last fluid change, what if anything have you done to the trans?
First, with a tire change, its entirely likely that you could have more traction now and thus, can't spin the tires. Remember, as much as we love the OHV (well I do anyway), its still not exactly a beast in mildly modified form, especially backed up by a 3 speed.
Brake torquing has a tendency to overheat the transmission fluid if done long (and often) enough. This can result in fluid breakdown which results in increased wear on parts. Does the trans seem to over-rev when shifting, or not want to go into the next gear? You can try changing the fluid, but barring that chance that the tires grip that much better, I'm betting your TC is starting to go, if you're not having other trans-related problems.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
sorry, hit "post" a little early...
Anyway, the reason i say its likely that your torque converter may be starting to go is this: You say you break torque the car, and if you're like me, and most people I know, you probably do it pretty frequently... Well, remember how I said that heats the fluid? Well, all that heat starts INSIDE the converter. Because of how the converter works (see the link), by spinning the fluid against vanes, when you're spinning the engine side faster and faster, and not allowing the drive side to move, there's more resistance meeting that fluid. Anyone who's taken high school science knows that resistance is friction, and friction causes heat. Well, eventually that heat starts to warp vanes on the turbine, on the pump, and it increases clearances, allow fluid to flow past parts that its not supposed to be able to flow past so easily.... which causes a loss of performance. If you've got a lot of mileage, and/or haven't changed the fluid at least every 30K miles (if i ever owned another auto I would do it every 15k or at least once a year, maybe even twice), then this is probable your problem. Don't panic, this doesn't necessarily mean that a total failure is iminent, but the smart thing to do at this point would be to start saving for a trans buildup, and stop beating on the car in the meantime. I had a similar issue with my Prelude auto that i beat the living daylights out of on a daily basis. Once it stopped chirping in 2nd gear i knew something was up, so I stopped kicking its ass all the time. Well, a few months later, the torque converter was shot. If i let it cool down it would work for a while until the TC got heated up, but then all it would do is rev and not go anywhere.
You're lucky in that more is available for the 3 spd then the later 4 spd transmissions. Go for shorter gearing, a somewhat higher stall converter, and Alto clutches and bands (altousa.com).
Hope that helps
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
torque converter isn't meant to be power braked. eventualy the stress wears it out.
My car may run 18s, but I can do your taxes in 10 seconds flat.
JBO lube - they would never have enough in stock and we'd never see RodimusPrime again
...Dude, That's quite a flaming for one sentence.. You should probably catch a nap or something.
-Matt
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you need some actual strip times to see if you have increased traction, or if you have lost power due to part failure. But you don't have a baseline, so...
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
WhitePhatt wrote:...Dude, That's quite a flaming for one sentence.. You should probably catch a nap or something.
-Matt
Not a flaming at all, just an honest request. You're not helping anyone by giving them advice on something that you yourself don't understand.
Quote:
you need some actual strip times to see if you have increased traction, or if you have lost power due to part failure. But you don't have a baseline, so...
Thats true too
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
Scarab, I can be corrected. That's what the site is for, to share and share alike but I won't be insulted, and drug through the mud like some n00b who requires a beat down. My first post does hold merit since as you said if the flexplate were worn the car wouldn't move which doesn't fit the description of OHV's issue, but still a valid possibility to pose since there are varying degrees of failure. It wasn't as if I asked him if his halogen fluid was running low.
If you look around, most of my posts are highly informative. It is unlike me to blatantly give bad advice, or post in a thread that I'm not competent to toss my 2 cents into. As I stated before, correction is fine. If I have made his issue into a gross generalization then I expect to be corrected without being talked down to in an insulting manner.
-Matt
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wow sorry guys i went to florida and i have been without a computer! lol but to get back on track yes as a matter of fact it takes about a second for the torque converter to *grab*. And I appreciate all of the info scarab as i know nothing about torque converters. Im going to take a look at the torque converter here after i graduate this weekend.
