anyone have an idea about how much to fix-i snaped two of the three top engine mount bolts in my 97 2,4l. i know the engine will probably need to be pulled. was wondering on prices aprox.
also is there any damage that can be done since the bottom mounts are still good and theres still one on the top?
do you have pics of the damage?
are you talking about the 3 nuts underneath the coolant resivore?? just weld some new studs on.. don't pull the engine for that.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
i think maybe hes talking about the 3 bolts that hold the bracket onto the block itself...andif you still have one still on then no damage should be done..i dont see how that happens but no big deal..engine wont need pulled..and i BET if you take that mount off youll see that about 1/2 and inch or so of bolt is still there(probably snapped a head off) so you can still turn the old bolts out...just need to remove the resivoir and jack that side of the engine up to do it...get it done soon though
If you cant grab the old bolts try an extractor kit to get them out.
yes im talking about the three that hold the engine and the bracket. i think they snaped in the block so i will need to extract. is it possible to lift the engine up out of the car from the bottom with a jack enough? ill try to get pics tomorrow.
yah, no big deal there, just jack up with a piece of wood or rubber between the oil pan and the jack, and make sure not to lift too high. (when the car starts lifting, you are running a risk of crushing the oil pan) you will easily see at what height you should stop.
how did the bolts break?? if they broke as you were tightening them in, you can use an extractor, if you cross threaded them in and they snapped you will have to go to an exhaust shop and have them, "blow out" the bolts (torch - the bolts melt before the cast block) but don't worry this is a common practice on cast materials. Just costs about 30-40 usually for 2 bolts.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
im thinking they snap due to my stiffer top and bottom engine mounts. vibrations can cause some damage over time i guess. that along with suspension and b&m shiftplus which m taking off.
it looks like it will have to be lifted out the engine by at least 1 foot. that possible from underneath?
you can get about 7-9 inches IIRC just from jacking.. likely not enough to get an extractor in the bottom hole... would be much cheaper just getting them burnt out, and it is perfectly safe.. I snapped a exhaust manifold bolt on my dads 350 vortec (3/4 tonne gas) I called the muffler shop (minute muffler) and they said, "it's very common, and very easy to fix. Most time you could just screw the bolt right back in without even chasing the thread.. if you didn't wreck the threads from cross threading."
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
im taking it you have to take off the header and the axel to jack up the engine that far!?
nope.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
ok so got it fix and it took freaking 7 hours to do it and ALOT of work.
it was the upper engine mount bolts that connect the braket to the engine..
okay, so first we slighty drained the coolant and remove that then of course all the components of the upper engine mount. tried to jack the engine up from the bottom but wouldnt come up no where near enough. about 3-4 inches off for the bottom bolt. (3-4 inches off from where we could get a gun to it.)
solution was a bit longer:
we decided the easiest way would be to lower it enough to go through the passenger fender after taking the plastic shields off. we wouldn't have to lower it as much as we would have to raise it.
from the driver side we took off the spindle knuckle from the strut, trannymount i believe(either that or the braket, 4 bolts, pretty easy)
from the passenger side with the problem:
took off the spindle knuckle from the strut
pulled axel out,
unbolted lower engine mount,
and then we had to drop the k fram to give clearance due to the engine hitting the lower engine mount bracket. although we left everything on the fram and had it rest on jack stands.
we left all the control arm and racket pinion steering together since it came down with the k fram.
after that the bolts had snaped clean into the engine and we extracted them out nicely. put new ones in with lock grip so they not coming back out for w/e reason the first ones did.
everything bolted up pretty well. seems to be running normal. although i need and alignment now(only slighty though). was wondering, since we left all the suspension bolted up- why would this occur? i figured it should bolt up back to its original spot since there were no complications and the major components of the suspension were left bolted up.
