2200 and 2.2 driveability differences - Performance Forum

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2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Friday, April 06, 2007 10:05 PM
A few years ago i owned a 96 Cavalier 2.2 5speed (I/H/E)

I recently came across a great deal on a 2001 Sunfire sedan, 2200, 5 speed. Stock

I'm curious what the difference is between the two in terms of driveability. I am aware that the the TB and manifold is different as well as the cam profile etc. And a variance of 5hp.

Is there a major difference in the gearing between the Isuzu tranny and the getrag??? ( i assume it was a getrag in the 01 sunfire.)

The reason i ask this is because i remember how my cavalier drove, and when i drove this sunfire, it felt like a night and day difference.

This car had almost Zero get up and go. I pinned it and really didnt get much response.... i passed on the deal figuring the engine might be worn out or something... i just didnt GO.

I'm gonna be looking at another 2002 Sunfire sedan with the same set up ... 2200 5 speed.... i'm just wondering.... will it be the same? has anyone else noticed this difference??

Thanks




Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Saturday, April 07, 2007 3:35 AM
Well I cannot speak for "drivability" persay, because I have not driven one stock, BUT in terms of reliability when lightly modded, the 2200 comes out ahead. The older 2.2 has the head gasket issues, but the 2200 is a great durable engine. I do NOT go easy on mine, and its pushing 100k miles and the engine has no signs of even a minor leak at all the seams, not even the valve cover. Really unlike anything I have ever had from GM.



Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Tuesday, April 10, 2007 4:33 PM
i just did a head gasket on my 2200sfi. it had 148k on it. after i did everything i fired it up and everything seems to be good. other then a ticking sound i recently discovered around 2000-2500rpm? possibly a valve? anyone had this problem before thanks
Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Tuesday, April 10, 2007 6:57 PM
Taylor, Do you have any mods to your 2200? The ticking might be a valve, or a sticking lifter. Ive never had the problem, But im sure someone here has.
Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Tuesday, April 10, 2007 7:40 PM
Get the 03 Sunfire, seriously.
The older Sunfires have lots of body sway, and the 0-60 is 10 seconds compared to the Ecotec's 2.2 getting 8.4 seconds.
The engine probably isnt worn, it is just a lot slower.
It isnt just the motor, it is the tranny's gearing, and axles and other little tweeks to get the newer 2.2s to go faster.
Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Sunday, April 15, 2007 1:46 PM
No not yet, i just bought the car 2 weeks ago with the headgasket gone. all i have is an exhaust. had to replace the stock, it was rotten. still trying to spot the sound. ill let everyone know what it is for future refrence when i find it.
thanks
Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Monday, April 16, 2007 3:18 AM
A friend of mine has had a '97 with the 2.2L and a '99 with the 2200 and said the 2.2L feels stronger as well.




Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Monday, April 16, 2007 6:13 AM
ohvrolla wrote:A friend of mine has had a '97 with the 2.2L and a '99 with the 2200 and said the 2.2L feels stronger as well.
2.2L is rated with more torque.
Mike Tampa wrote:Get the 03 Sunfire, seriously.
The older Sunfires have lots of body sway, and the 0-60 is 10 seconds compared to the Ecotec's 2.2 getting 8.4 seconds.
The engine probably isnt worn, it is just a lot slower.
It isnt just the motor, it is the tranny's gearing, and axles and other little tweeks to get the newer 2.2s to go faster.
Get a clue, seriously.
The newer sunfires use the same unibody as the older ones, what sway bars you get depends on what trim level you buy. If you buy a base model 03 it's going to roll just like a base model 96. As far as the power difference between the ECO and OHV, this can be remedied with $200 and a few hours of your time (much cheaper than buying the newer and more expensive car).



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Monday, April 16, 2007 6:11 PM
I missed that. 200 on what?




Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Monday, April 16, 2007 7:19 PM
David St. Hubbins , AKA: Eddie wrote:I missed that. 200 on what?
having the cam reground (~$180) and port your head (~$20 in bits). Add a .030" headgasket for another 10hp (~$100).



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Wednesday, April 18, 2007 10:58 PM
Hold off on buying another j-body and get something with an ecotec.
I have a 2200 SFI and it's nice, but i've driven an ecotec cavalier and it runs f-ing circles around my 2200,
and that's a stock ecotec with 100lbs of crap in the trunk vs. a lightened, empty, heavily modded 2200 with a new oil change and premium gas.

You can pick up a used '03 for $6000-$9000 where i live. Less if you're lucky.


Sadly, no more..

Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Thursday, April 19, 2007 6:04 PM
David Silva wrote:Hold off on buying another j-body and get something with an ecotec.
I have a 2200 SFI and it's nice, but i've driven an ecotec cavalier and it runs f-ing circles around my 2200,
and that's a stock ecotec with 100lbs of crap in the trunk vs. a lightened, empty, heavily modded 2200 with a new oil change and premium gas.
Rule #1: never listen to someone who considers this heavily modded:
from his registry wrote:RSM lightened crank pulley
MSD Coil packs
Nopi #1 Cold Air Intake
Flowmaster straight-through exhaust
Upper motor mount
Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic
Accel spark plugs
NGK V-power spark plugs
Rule #2: never listen to someone who thinks premium gas is actually going to help his 9:0 SCR NA motor.

I have nothing against the ECO, but when I can put $300 into an LN2 and have the same power, why buy a new car?



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Thursday, April 19, 2007 6:13 PM
OHV notec wrote:
I have nothing against the ECO, but when I can put $300 into an LN2 and have the same power, why buy a new car?


I believe you completely, but not everyone can do that. How many hours of work is a cam regrind and install on a 2200? How many hours for head work? What kind of tuning is necessary after install for maximum effect and durability?

I would love to do that to my 2200, but I have to drive it to work everyday, so I either need to use vacation to mod the car, pay someone to do the work in a reasonable amount of time, or perform modifications that I can do in a weekend or less with basic tools.

On top of that there is the uneasiness that I will @!#$ something up, because I am a novice at mechanics.

Not trying to shoot you down or anything, just pointing out that some people shell out bucks for ease of install rather than thinking of what will truely give the most hp/$.

On the note of why buy a new car, I agree. My 2200 is creeping up on 100k miles and its running like the day I bought it at 23k miles. If it dies tomorrow, I feel I've gotten more than my moneys worth out of it, but as it is it saves me so much on insurance and gas compared to a more powerful new car its really just stupid to sell/trade it for a new daily driver.



Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Thursday, April 19, 2007 6:40 PM
Well, a head and cam can be done in a weekend with basic hand tools (I swapped the entire rear half of my DSM last weekend with just the tool box I take to the junkyard).
The most critical step if you're short on down time and need the experience is to head out to the nearest junkyard for the donor parts. This way you can have the spare cam reground and port the new head while you're still driving your car, plus you know what it takes to get the stock parts out (experience points).
Besides, people usually have their base model Cavs because they can't afford a better car , much less the $$$ for performance part installs. They are also great cars for learning, as everything is very basic and straight-forward.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:35 PM
OHV notec wrote:
David St. Hubbins , AKA: Eddie wrote:I missed that. 200 on what?
having the cam reground (~$180) and port your head (~$20 in bits). Add a .030" headgasket for another 10hp (~$100).


I don't care what you say. With what you have listed it still will not be faster than a stock ecotec.


MarioXpress
If the cars performance is as important to you as you make it sound like it is. Do not short change yourself. You will wind up regretting it in the end.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:38 PM


FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!

Re: 2200 and 2.2 driveability differences
Thursday, April 19, 2007 8:01 PM
Wade Jarvis wrote:
OHV notec wrote:
David St. Hubbins , AKA: Eddie wrote:I missed that. 200 on what?
having the cam reground (~$180) and port your head (~$20 in bits). Add a .030" headgasket for another 10hp (~$100).

I don't care what you say. With what you have listed it still will not be faster than a stock ecotec.
MarioXpress
If the cars performance is as important to you as you make it sound like it is. Do not short change yourself. You will wind up regretting it in the end.
Oddly enough, I don't care what you say either. But if you have proof to the contrary, please let us know. Also, I didn't say it would be faster, I said it would keep up.
Also remember, the OHV-equipped cars had less weight (which is part of the reason PJ is doing so good with the ECO swap compared to those with ECOs stock)



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
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