I finally got installing the a bigger-bore throttle-body for my 2.4L. But now I have a problem, my idle is at 1500 rpms and when I shift gears the RPMs drop really slow as if I have a heavy flywheel. I've checked all hoses and everything is intact.
Correct me if i am wrong, if you do a bigger bore you are suppose to have a little hole on the wall right next to the TB plate just like the stock TB right?
Could someone tell me what is wrong here and point me in the right direction?
Thanks
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Did you make sure all the sensors were pluged back in tight. When i installed mine i ran into the same problem and after ajusting the trottle stop and making sure my connections were tight everything worked great . Who did the tb boring. Did you make sure the trottle plate sealed well and there was no large gaps.
Quote:
Correct me if i am wrong, if you do a bigger bore you are suppose to have a little hole on the wall right next to the TB plate just like the stock TB right?
Yup,
And actually, that like rectangular hole usually ends up being about a 1/8th inch large circle.
But when its that large, a lot of the times the plate is kinda splitting the thing and not sitting above it like stock.
So, thats when you have to adjust the idle screw so the plate can get down far enough to be under the hole.
But,
Its an oddball drill head thing.
So I usually end up cutting the scre with a dremel from undeneath until it gets where it needs to.
Better way though is to drill out and put in a diff screw.
And if that doesn't work,
Then if you can, try the tb on another car.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
Yes sir, all are plugs are plugged in tight. The boring was done by Mantapart, but it was done so correct. Yes, the tb plate is put on right and when I put it up against the light, there is no light shining through.
I just rechecked all the hoses and they're tight, I just cleaned the IAT sensor which had some carbon/dirt deposit with brake cleaner. I even shot some WD-40 on the electronic connectors.
But it is still idling at 1500 rpms exact.
I am running out of ideas, as the only thing different is the TB itself. So I am like
now. (?)
Oh and I have no CEL either, so the TPS is running ok too and I disconnected the negative battery cable for roughly 15-20 mins also so the computer can go to the so-called "default settings."
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Monday, October 23, 2006 5:31 PM
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Mastin wrote:Quote:
Correct me if i am wrong, if you do a bigger bore you are suppose to have a little hole on the wall right next to the TB plate just like the stock TB right?
Yup,
And actually, that like rectangular hole usually ends up being about a 1/8th inch large circle.
But when its that large, a lot of the times the plate is kinda splitting the thing and not sitting above it like stock.
So, thats when you have to adjust the idle screw so the plate can get down far enough to be under the hole.
But,
Its an oddball drill head thing.
So I usually end up cutting the scre with a dremel from undeneath until it gets where it needs to.
Better way though is to drill out and put in a diff screw.
And if that doesn't work,
Then if you can, try the tb on another car.
-M
You are correct, Mantaparts filled up 1/8in hole with JB welds. When I got the TB the hole was barely visible. So i opened it up with the drill, now it is as big as it was stock.
In the stock TB, the hole is on AFTER the plate, which I did the same.
As for the idler screw... . That little POS is virtually impossible to find a tool for it. I tried to drill it and it it killed 3 drill bits, so what I did was adapt a nut on the thread so the lever rests on it, as before it was just floating on its stop.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Well,
Seem you have a handle on it,
At this point, if you have another stocker, slap it back on make sure noting funny is going on.
Then, take the tb, and try it on another cavi.
I tryed the air trick thing too.
One tb I was messing with you could see daylight. But when I ran water in it, the water didn't leak through.
Seem odd but thats what happened.
And you said Mantapart?
Man, its too bad their name comes up so many times when their products may or may not have issues.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
Yeah,
They owe me a $200 rear K brace still.
Or refund. (which they'd said they'd do)
Or something, been so long I can't remember.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
You said there is not light when you look at the TB in the light. Well this could be your problem. Are you 100% sure the TB plate is all the way closed? Take it off and hold it in your hands and manually close the butterfly your self. If there is just a little bit of room it will cause this. We have had to take sandpaper and sand the inside of the TB to allow the plate to close more. This was also on a Mantapart TB. Problem is the TB plate fits soo tight it does not close all the way, and when you force it it might stick.
FU Tuning
Hmm, are you saying that the TB is sticking to the wall? Isn't the TB plate supposedly be completely closed.
Right now i am completely clueless as to what is the problem.
Higgins, what exactly in your opinion do you think is the problem?
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:Hmm, are you saying that the TB is sticking to the wall? Isn't the TB plate supposedly be completely closed.
Right now i am completely clueless as to what is the problem.
Higgins, what exactly in your opinion do you think is the problem?
I think the TB plate is catching on the sides of the Tb and is not closing 100%, allowing a smalkl vaccum leak.
FU Tuning
Ahh I see, what do you recommend me to do for a fix? I'll try it out later today.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:Ahh I see, what do you recommend me to do for a fix? I'll try it out later today.
What we did was take sand paper and sand the inside of the TB (while holding the TB plate open), sand the areas where the plate will rest when closed. I was always told you want to be able to see some light around the TB plate when closed. Also this could take some time, depending on the grit sand paper you use, but if you take your time you will find you can make the inside of the TB smoother.
FU Tuning
Higgins,
What i did last night, was replace the TB plate (did not sand) with another one, this time a slit of light passes through circular area, cranked it up and it was revving at 1900-2000rpms.
Now, I am looking at the stock TB and there is some light showing and that TB runs normal, the new TB is tighter sealed and running 1500 rpms. (?)
On that note, if i have a vac leak, the stock one would be the one to leak. Correct?
I'm afraid to sand it down, because I may loose to much wall material and end up with that 2000 rpm idle again.
I am sooo puzzled on this that all I am saying is now is
do i do next.
Mastin,
Oh and i notice that the hose that goes to the pipe that is connected to a hole on the wall. It will not matter if it is covered or not, as I put my finger to tap it to simulate if it is closed and it did not affect the revs in eitherway. Odd.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
This might be odd... but... how tight is your throttle cable & cruise control cable? I installed my RSM 62mm tb for the first time years ago, and just snapped on the CC cable... thinking it should be fine.... lo and behold, I had a high idle.... around 1300 rpm or so... I loosened the CC cable, and it was fine again.
I'm stumped.
Does your car act normal with the original tb?
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
Not sure if this is the problem. But I installed my Reveco throttle body a couple weeks ago and it idled higher because I unscrewed a screw that held it open. Look where your throttle and cruise control cables connect to the side of the plate.
I had to screw it in, and now it works much much better. Give that a shot.
That was for an eco, I don't know anything about the ld9 throttle bodies.
Thank you all.^
Alright guys after a long last night and a frustrating late afternoon I found the problem.
It was ridiculously stupid reason too. I can lol now, but yesterday I was pissed.
Problem, turns out the problem was; the TB plate was touching up against the wall causing the throttle to be partially opened hence higher rpms.
Solution, file down the TB plate edges so it won't hit the wall and leave a tiny-tiny slit of a opening on the edge (some light should pass through).
Result, idles at 850-900 rpms (which is normal for me) and the car is now a wild ape with this TB. No power loss down-low, while a noticeable power gain through out the rev-band.
Again a million thanks Higgins, Mastin, Jedi, Lenko for the help and pointing me on to the right direction.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Hey what size are you bored out to?
They said 60mm. But when I measure it with a flimsy ruler, I am seeing 58-59mm.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Good deal.
If you got 58-59 with a ruler, then its probably like 58.5-59.5mm with calipers so you should be ok.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
you should always see tiny bit of light all arund the TB for a perfect operation
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Quote:
you should always see tiny bit of light all arund the TB for a perfect operation
Makes sense.
Maybe using it to keep up the idle or something?
Since its like a vacuum, maybe the pull is strong enough to get the air it needs keep things idling.
Ack, I dont know,
Good deal.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
