Ok just a real quick question here, and I'm not sure so wanted to clear this up for myself. The secret cam swap is only for 2.4's right? And if so are there any other options for the 2.2?

yes the secret cam swap is only for the 2.4. it is a DOHC motor, whereas the 2.2 is OHV, not OHC like you have in your profile. what type of other options are you thinking about?

There are two companies that have cams for the 2.2L OHV and just about any cam company can regrind the stock cam.

The first is J_body Performance(JBP), They have a bad reputation on their valve train products and are overpriced for what your getting. They are very secretive about their lobe centers and intake center line, but since they are regrinding stock profiles (you can only move the lobes +/- 1 degree on regrinds), so II'vegot a good idea of what they'll do. II'verun their cam profiles through DeskTop Dyno and they seem to be decent profiles.

Import Performance Parts Has just released three new cams. I don't know all the details on them yet, but I'm working on it. If they turn out like I think they will, they should be some really good cams. A note here, with 110 degree lobe centers, you will probably get a slight lope to your idle, but should rrunreally good. The Stage 2 cam will need extra compression and gearing to get the most out of it.

Crane Cams, Comp Cams and Isky Racing Cams, along with most other cam companies that do regrinds, can do a regrind to match your needs and the stock valve train. Call them and get more info as far as pricing and profiles.

Note sticking with the stock lobe centers and intake center line will reduce the number of variations of grinds you can run and the peak torque and horsepower numbers, but they will give you the best idle quality. A longer duration (of about 6-10 degrees) will expand the top end and give you the broadest gains in your rpm band.

Symmetrical lobe profiles (same int. & exh. numbers) and tighter lobe separation(110 degrees, such as the IPP cams) will give you higher peak numbers, but require slightly more compression and you'll most likely lose some of you idle quality from the loss of vacuum. These cams might not respond as well to nitrous as the other profiles would, but would give you higher numbers and a tighter powerband while running N/A.

The turbo/boost cams would give you slightly better response (faster spooling of a turbo) and probably slightly higher peaks than any of the regular cams. You can usually run any cam you want and still make gains under boost, it's just a boost cam is profiled for less blow-through and better response.

MadJack, I know this is kind of a noob question and no i didnt search . . . but I was looking at the cams at Import Performance and was wondering do you know the stock specs for a cam out of a 1997 2.2L. I need something to compare these numbers to.


2.2 OHV

madjack, once again you prove youself an invaluable resource for the ln2 fanatics on this site... i will be buying the stage 2 cam at my first chance.



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Ignore my first post, they have the stock specs right on there site. . . . just one of those days I guess.


2.2 OHV

one question i forgot to ask... will these cams need any computer reprogramming? will they throw a cel on just a straightforward swap?



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Madjack thank you for your input. It is deffinately going to help me out with this and I will deffinately be looking into the companies you listed and am probably going to be back on this subject for more help sometime soon! So thanks again for the info.

I'm curious as to whether or not these IPP cams should be run with a hydraulic roller lifter, since they were design for flat tappet....
Also, since I'm in here and all, is the 2200 headgasket compressed thickness the same as the 2.2L?



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

Don't look at the "Camshaft Kits", rather look into the "Camshafts." The kits are for the '93 & older flat hydraulic cams, while the other is for the hydraulic roller cams.

How much of an ordeal is it to swap out a cam on a 2200? Can I retain the rest of the stock valvetrain if I go with a mild cam?

The cam is in the block, so you'll have to pull the engine to get to it. Some have said that you can just remove to motor mounts on the passenger side and lower the engine, but I think you risk getting dirt in there and it would be just as much work to get to the cam anyways. Either way you go you still need to remove the head, oil pan timing cover and the timing set and pull the lifters to get the cam out.

A cam swap is a great upgrade if you are doing some head work or a head swap, since you need to pull the head anyways. Besides the head is the most restictive part of theses motors.

The stock valvetrain is good upto about .480" lift at the valve. You can use any cam and rocker combo that will supply up to that lift. Just remember that the more lift you put on the valve, the less rpm the springs will be able to handle.