I finaly got my HO swap done, with only one problem. I'm using the the 56mm tb from the HO, and right now I have the 2.3 tps and iac on the tb. When you go to start the car it goes up to 3k rpm, then all the way up to 4k rpm and hits the rev limiter and just bounces there. I was thinking there is just a leak, I could not find any. I then took off my intake and seen that when the car is started the tb it open half way. At the time I found this out it was way to late to start taking things apart. So I'm just going to have to go at it tomorrow when I get the chance. Any ideas on what is keeping my tb half way open when it is running? Should I try and use the 2.4 TPS and IAC? Or do you think I might have the cable in the wrong spot on the bracket? I have the cable on the very top of the bracket in the first round hole. I'm going to try the 2.4 TPS and IAC 2moro. Oh btw I have a 97 Z24 Auto, and for more info I put the cable on the hole that is above the hole u have to drill out on the wheel. With the cable there the car idles fine and i can drive it but the tb only opens up half way when I floor the gas petal. Any info would be great!
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
The IAC doesn't do anything to the butterfly. If the Tb plate is open it's because you install the cable incorrectly.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
mine did that when i first did the swap, it was because my gaskets were not set correctly.
What do you mean the gaskets were not set correctly?
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
Anybody have any over heating problems after the ho install? Because I just drove across town which is a whopping 5 miles and back and my car was running over 200 degrees and the water was boiling out of my resivore. I was not driving hard or anything.
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
JSPEC wrote:What do you mean the gaskets were not set correctly?
i mean i cut my own gaskets and they were a little off, so when i started it, it ideled at like 4K
JSPEC wrote:Anybody have any over heating problems after the ho install? Because I just drove across town which is a whopping 5 miles and back and my car was running over 200 degrees and the water was boiling out of my resivore. I was not driving hard or anything.
you could say that....http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=365284&t=365284
it stills runs hot, when i get around to it im going to get the coolant flushed and a 180 degree thermostat.
PS.. so am i going to be seeing your original egr flange coming my way soon?
Lol yeah infact I was getting ready to email you, I lost your address. First I'm going to clean it up because dang its dirty as hell. And after you send me your address I'll send it.
PS: When you over heat if you drive around for a while does your water boil and spill out of your resivoir? And my coolant/water light keeps coming on.
And if I have my throttle cable on right, would my tps make the car idle at 4k and bounce at the rev limiter?
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
i "over heat" when im just driving around its only to maby 210 at the most... the needle is on the hot side of halfway. it bounces around from there.
with the car turned off the throttle body butterfly should be closed. look at it if ,its not then its the cable.
your still driving it around with it reving up to 4K....the tps would not do that. the tps just tells the computer a value. that butterfly being open or a leak(letting in air) is the only way to rev that high, and still run.
i "over heat" when im just driving around its only to maby 210 at the most... the needle is on the hot side of halfway. it bounces around from there.
with the car turned off the throttle body butterfly should be closed. look at it if ,its not then its the cable.
your still driving it around with it reving up to 4K....the tps would not do that. the tps just tells the computer a value. that butterfly being open or a leak(letting in air) is the only way to rev that high, and still run.
oh and ill e-mail you my address
Its not reving up to 4k atm, I put the cable on a diffirent hole on the tb wheel, my butterfly atm will only open up half way when i floor the petal. but if i put the cable in the hole you have to drill to make it fit, that is when the car hits the rev limiter and bounces. I did not try putting the car in drive i was afraid of what it could do. So at this moment the car is drivable i just have to floor it to get it to pick up any kind of speed.
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
Is there anything on the cable or the tb that I can adjust the tension of the cable on the tb wheel?
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
I am 90% sure that I know your problem. Are you using your 2.4L TB bracket? I tried this just for fittement and to see if it was true that you can't use it, and noticed that the cable becomes taught and keeps the throttle open. You can't use the 2.4 throttle bracket. Either get a 95' one from a J-body, or any 2.3L one for that matter (My dad cut and welded the old cruise control slot from the 2.4 onto the 2.3 bracket). Mine came off of a pre 95' grand am with the 2.3L SOHC.
Brian,
Curious here. If I were to do the ho manifold swap using my rsm 62mm 2.4L TB would I need to still use the 2.3L throttle bracket? I wonder if there is specific instructions online somewhere for those of us not using the 2.3L TB and kepping their factory 2.4L one instead?
Thanks,
J
No I am using the 2.3 bracket with cruise, thanks for all of your help everybody. But I figured out my problem with the car hitting the rev limiter in park. My 2.3 Bracket was bent and putting to much tension on the cable opening up the butterfly. So I hammered the bracket back in place and it works great now. Went out for a test drive and the car responds so much better. You can really feel a diffirence in how the car drives and performs. BUT! I'm having one more problem now, while I was driving around I got a CEL. So I went to autozone to have them check it thinking I must of burnt up one of the 2.3 sensors since they were old anyways. But after it was checked it was an EGR Valve issue, something about insufficient air flow I beleive. My first thought is, "Damn, the EGR adaptor is not working. I then looked under the hood and noticed the hose going from the EGR to the Manifold has 2 kinks in it. Oh, by the way I'm using a heater hose that is rated to withstand 1000 degree temps. So I'm thinking I need to find a way to un-kink the line, and hope that fixes the problem. Any ideas? Would the kinks in the line cause the insufficient air flow problem with my EGR? Because I drove around for about 20 miles before the CEL even came on the first time. So if anybody can throw out any ideas on what the problem could be besides the hose kinking that would be great. Thanks ahead for your help.
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
Glad your found out the one problem.
I was just gonna say, since your auto, you need a little more clearence (I used two gaskets) because of the tanny pan down there.
Also, I remembe there was some wired loop down there preventing from closing.
But you got it, so congrats.
Yeah you wanna loose the kinks.
If they are kinked too much you can actully practically stop the flow.
I learned that with the break booster hose when I had ti kinked.
Got a check engine and the fan kicked on.
I never had to mess with the EGR so folks let's hekp him out.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
Quote:
Brian,
Curious here. If I were to do the ho manifold swap using my rsm 62mm 2.4L TB would I need to still use the 2.3L throttle bracket? I wonder if there is specific instructions online somewhere for those of us not using the 2.3L TB and kepping their factory 2.4L one instead?
Thanks,
No Justin. If the throttle body was designed for the 2.4L, then it doesn't need the 2.3L bracket. I used my stock throttle body till the car went in mid-December. You will however need to bore out the opening on the manifold to match your 62mm TB. I believe a stock HO manifold has a 58mm bore. You also have to enlargen the 2 mounting holes on the throttle body that bolt up to the manifold to accommodate the larger bolts that the HO manifold uses.
Glad you found out the problem with the throttle body, Josh. Did you get my email of the pics for the 2.3L oil pump swap?
I got an email from you but there were no pictures or attachments.
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
you need to cut the hose perfect length so there is no extra material, any extra will make the hose bend and kink.
-or you could just hardline the gap between the egr flange and the mani.
Yeah I was going to try and shorten the hose to get the kinks out, I really hope that works its going to suck to have had that adaptor made and it don't work.
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
like i said my flange worked fine and the one i made you is even better.
