my 2.4 spun a bearing so do i need a new motor or not...... also if i need a new motor i want to stay 2.4(no replacement for displacement) then i also want to know wat i can do to make it more reliable(not spin another bearing) and also were i should start modding my 2.4 i want to eventually put a turbo in it and also keep it my DD(wats max boost on motor) and dont say every noob asked the same question b/c every car is different and i dont know wat mods these cars respond to the best or how i have to prepar THIS car for a turbo

p.s any suggestions will help me thank you

jordan

also i have a automatic trans

you can start off with a good bottom end. eagle rods and wiseco pistons is what im running in my automatic. if your going to do a rebuild you mine as well go ahead and do the 2.3 pump swap for better oiling as well. you wanna remove the balance shafts to free up some rotating weight which helps your car rev alittle faster. you can find the pistons and rods at http://carcustoms.net with free shipping and the 2.3 pump swap write up somewhere in the performance forum by searching probally. should be good to start you off for now.

If you spun the rod bearing, you might have damaged the cylinder walls. It would be best to get the block bored out a little and/or honed, as well as line honed. Also, you will almost definately need to have the crank turned and that will require slightly larger rod bearings. Apart from that, I believe Boosted has the basics covered for you.

well lemmie know if buying a new motor will be better was looking at one with 50k on it for 900 and if i go your route will it b cheaper

nvm i see that new engone would probally be cheaper but i think what u guys suggested would help me more

you'll need a new engine almost definatly. you can try putting bearings in but most likely that will be a short temp fix. if you cant afford to do a bottom end build up (everything) get a used engine and put clevite77 bearings in and run synthectic oil. stock GM bearings are crap.




_______________________
** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**

If you do a rebuild do not use synthetic oil right off the bat!! Use regular oil for 500 miles. That will give everything a chance to set. A crankshaft kit costs about $170. That's for a new crank! All the honing, boring, and line boring will be a pretty penny. I just had my engine done like that and had everything balanced. It cost about $1000.

I have a used 2.4 with 40k miles on it from a 2000. it has always been stock, and never raced. email ge_forcez22@hotmail.com if interested. (58282)

as for building an engine...


2.3 pump.. (400-500) drive gear, pump, windage tray, drilling/welding
eagle/wiseco (800) pistons rods
arp bolts (200) head/main
cometic HG (100) MLS SS
bearings (200) clevitte like guys mentioned
balancing would be extra... secret cams would be sweet too... HO manifold.. TB

plus assembly of everything (bottom end at least at a pro shop including any grinding/new gaskets/seals) about 1000

if doing all that then it is time to consider doing LSD and clutch too (700) or so... mounts are also a great idea while it is all out....
then you are looking pretty good to build some boost.. so without a turbocharger around 3500 ish will get you an engine...

wow! I went on a tangent there, sorry lol... it will cost 3-4k to get a good start... then you need a turbo kit.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

don't get me wrong, I love my engine, and setup... but there is a lot of cost involved in doing things right and making reliable power. With all the gauges and a pillar installed, tuned correctly, I have 10k miles on my rebuild this summer, and I have only rattled my alternator off once... aside from that trouble free 12 psi driving... and HARD driving too....




-always let the 2.4 warm up though


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

A lot of you guys talk like you think the LD9 oiling system is anywhere near adequate... you have to sit down and consider for 2 mins exactly WHY people are spinning bearings on stock motors.

1 - the oil pump just can't handle high RPM's. It's pooh.

2 - The stock oiling system doesn't flow very well in certain spots.

3 - Stock bearings just can't take a low oil to no oil beating.

So - what do you need to avoid this again?

Better oil pump, machine the galleries, hone the cylinders since you'll have the block out and put new pistons and rods in since it's all out, get better rings, Clevite 77 main and rod bearings, and for the love of god do something to help the crank with that oil.

I think my list of oiling modifications almost dwarfs my list of parts for the bottom end...

Should you want to boost the motor, build the bottom end stronger now - why not right? No sense doing things twice. Remember - use studs for everything you can, not bolts.

Good luck with your build.... whether it's worth it or not will be completley up to you in the end. I vote put in another stocker for now and just beat it into submission like a chinese schoolgirl.

-Chris-



-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...