This has got me dumb founded. This started last fall that I can recall, when i do a hard acceleration the car randomly misfiresonce in a while and the "ETS OFF" clicks on for a sec and then goes away. Now it dosn't do it all the time, so its just random and when it feels like it. In the fall i put new wires and plugs on and that stoped the problems. Now this spring it has started all over again after i took the car out of storage 7mos later. I stored the car with fuel stabilizer and a full tank of 87. Now this spring i have added MSD coil pacs, and Nology hot wires which smooth out my idle nicely but I still have this problem randomly misfiring while in high RPMS. I pulled 1 plug and they looked fine. I finally used up the old gas and I am strickly running 93 and even with the fresh gas its still misfireing once in a while when the pedal is to the floor. Over the winter I'm planning on adding Nitrous to my car thus the reason for the 93 but If my car does what its doing now while I am spraying, I don't want to know the consequences next summer. Only things left I can think of doing is pulling the injectors and having them cleaned and ditching the ACdelcos and getting some Denso Iridiums. What do you guys think, seeing I am at a loss on what to do now.... ??
Thanks in advance.
mt buddies had been doing the same thing for a while and i have been working on it for around two days, but still have not found out what is wrong with it but maybe we can e-mail each other to get some info. also if you have an AIM mine is ThebigeL11 well holla and we'll talk
Just wondering... why switch to 93 octane? Can I assume that it was running without knocking on the same 87 that it was stored with?
The car does not knock while running either grades. My car only has 59K miles on her, so that won't be an issue. I have to put it back into storage by sept 1st so hopefully i can get this figured out sometime soon. My aim is the same as my handle here...
Anyone else??
Its also setting off the "ETS OFF" light when the car is misfiring aswell if thats anyhelp. I threw some new Delco's in today and the @!#$ car is still acting up. I gapped them to .050 inches like my computer at work told me to.
mine would miss for a split second and then some right back on and it would do that off and on. What caused was that I forgot to reconnect the ground wires when I put the engine back in
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check you ignition control module and the wire going to it, I had this happen and I put a new module in and it went away for a couple of days and then it came back under boost and then one day I stopped and touched the purple wire and the car stalled. Put a new pigtail from another car and the problem was gone after much frustration.
I went to the dealership today to order a new Delco front O2 sensor and i had a good conversation with one of the tech's on what maybe he thought the problem could be. From whay I told him he thinks i have a bad ground somewhere on the car potentially one for the O2 sensor since the car has soo few miles but has some years behind her. Me I am wondering now if these stupid Nology hotwires are causing the problems because i rememner reading in the past people were having problems with them. But I am stuck at work right now and when i get home I am going to go and see if i can find a bad ground or something and also that wire your talking about. I have a remote starter on the car and I am also wonder if the wire the tapped into is causing some problems aswell. Or maybe I have my tach adaptor grounded improperly because i did that before and it went ape @!#$.
JimmyZ wrote:
I have two very big problems with Nology Hotwires that I've posted in the forums before, and maybe it's time I did again:
1. They advertise that they have a "capacitor" in the wires that makes the spark hotter. What they actually have is a wire braid that is wrapped around the wire itself, creating a capacitive effect. The problem is that by doing it that way, they are using the insulation of the wire as a capacitive dielectric which, at those voltage levels, will degrade the insulation. Internally, they are nothing but standard resistor core ignition wires that offer nothing to increase voltage delivered to the plugs.
2. They alter ignition timing. It's a simple fact that wires do not create sparks. Wires are simply the means of delivery for the voltage that is produced by the coils. A normal ignition system on a J, depending on engine RPM, will produce a spark that has a duration of 15-30 degrees of crankshaft rotation. That is a consistent, even spark that starts at the point the computer determines it needs to and fires as long as the coil's saturation level allows. That is through conventional wires (or contacts, in the case of IDI-style ignitions). Nology wires use their primitive little capacitive effect to store the voltage once it starts coming down the wire...charging the "capacitor" until the voltage stops coming...then releases it. Neat idea, except that the spark is now hitting the plug and your combustion chamber 15-30 degrees later than it was intended to. I guess a built in timing retard like that would be good for you boost and nitrous guys, but what about the NA crowd?
SO their advertising is 100% true...their wires deliver a hotter spark. What they fail to tell you is that the hotter spark is much shorter duration and is grossly mistimed.
So, the way I see it you have a wire that, by design, will slowly destroy itself. As an added bonus, you have a theory of operation that is potentially damaging to your motor and definitely isn't good for power production or fuel consumption.
Wish i read that before i ordered them, I think thats my problem right there...
I hope that solves everything for you. I asked about octane because, contrary to popular belief you'll always get both the most power and fuel economy by running the
lowest octane fuel that a given engine can tolerate
FieroGT42 wrote:Icontrary to popular belief you'll always get both the most power and fuel economy by running the lowest octane fuel that a given engine can tolerate
not popular belief... uneducated belief
lower ocatne burns faster and more violently and like you said as long as the engine will take it (no detonation or knock ect.) it will make more power with lower octane. He said he went with the higher octane because he plans on running nitrous... higher octane is better for nitrous because when you get detonation on nitrous it turns nasty.
also one other thing you mentioned... you don't want iridium or platinum plugs for nitrous, just run regular old copper plugs. in my boosted nitrous cav (even before the boost on just nitrous) I ran copper plugs (Autolite 103's) and I changed them with every oil change (1,500-2,000 miles) although now I use the copper SRT4 plugs.
and yes Nology is junk, you pretay much can never go wrong with MSD
and just and FYI, the AC Delco plugs are gapped at .045 from the factory.
Kovich14 wrote:and just and FYI, the AC Delco plugs are gapped at .045 from the factory.
The last 8 i have installed out of the box were all at .035... when i had a tune up at the dealership many years back and pulled the plugs last fall they were at .030-.035... I opened them to .045-.050
