i heard that when you put 2.3 cams in a 2.4 you can get more hp and how much more i want to know if this is true.

Look at the Secret Cam Sticky at the top of this forum.

yes its true and you cant just take the cams out of any 2.3l .
The intake cam has to come from a 95 and only 95 cavalier because you need the hex gear for power steering
The Exhaust cam needs to come out of a 90-94 2.3l low i got mine out of a gramd am
Its a 10 - 15 hp gain over stock

Also if you are going to do the swap i have a set of secret cam for sale in the classifids for $120 if your intrested
just pm me
Iam selling them because iam rebuilding and want more agressive cams

Thanks
Paul

this mod sucks. i did it and i didn't feel a difference

Bigtemps wrote:this mod sucks. i did it and i didn't feel a difference

really? nothing at all

Bigtemps wrote:this mod sucks. i did it and i didn't feel a difference

You're most likely the only one. Are you sure you got the right cams?






Sask GM Performance (formerly SaskJbody) president

yeah i got the right cams. everything was done right. but i just didn't feel a big difference. I felt more of a power gain when i put on a larger throttle body, which only took me 10 min as oposed to spending an entire day swapping my cams.

Bigtemps wrote:this mod sucks. i did it and i didn't feel a difference

+1



14.9 1/4 mi all motor

Swapping cams = 3hours.

Also, if you went by casting number, you could have got the wrong cams.



Gilles
2.3 Ho

^^^ almost all the cams have the same casting number, once outta the car, you pretty much have to measure them.

And 3 hours should be plenty to do the swap. No one has actually dynoed the mod which is sad. We should all get together and dyno something. If you are thinking of doing the swap.... I would be willing to throw in 10 bucks for a before and after dyno, just so we have proof.

Any one else think this would be a good idea? it's been flamed before, but just for curiousity, I would pay.

Cams for $120, I say grab them and run man, thats smokin good. If you look at the duration and lift, the cams are more agressive and will produce power, sadly most people use a butt dyno and in that case a CAI or fart can "produces" more power because it is louder.




HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

The 95 intake is not worth the time or money IMO, just look at the specs. The exhaust cam is for sure though.

to the guy that felt nothing:

do you have your cams timed corectly? cuz the exhaust cam alone should give you a noticable gain.



Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..

im gonna be doing this mod but dont have the money to take my car to the dyno 2 times to check the difference in power. if someone would wanna start a fund thing i would do it.... its 95 dollars for 2 pulls at my local dyno or 75 dollars a hour to rent the room. so u figure 15 people at 10 dollars a peice that would be enough to do a before and after dyno pull.... I just have to wait till my helper is ready to help me with the cam swap since ive never done anything like this before.

check out.... http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=363954&t=363954 no flamers, only people who are interested...... I am willing to donate, z speed cavi, I assume you are in... once we have 15 people (or more) we are ready to do this, lets do this as a group and settle it.



HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

When you guys installed the scecret cams, did you do anything to them other than clean them up.? Thats all I did, then put them into my freshly built motor and it lopes and idles like crap.. I don't know what else it could be, I checked and clean my tps sensor.









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

new engine, thats exactly what I did and it runs perfectly,

1)what is your compression?
2)fuel pressure?
3)cams sensor plugged in?
4)did you reuse your lifters? (you can reuse them but then you should reset them)
5)map sensor ==> boost gauge -20 ish at idle, and any other vacumm leaks,

the issue is likely (99 not related to the cam swap.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

ge_forcez22 wrote:new engine, thats exactly what I did and it runs perfectly,

1)what is your compression?
2)fuel pressure?
3)cams sensor plugged in?
4)did you reuse your lifters? (you can reuse them but then you should reset them)
5)map sensor ==> boost gauge -20 ish at idle, and any other vacumm leaks,

the issue is likely (99 not related to the cam swap.

Ill have to check 1and 5 to find out those

2)My fuel pressure reads between 45-53 on my fuel rail(should it fall to 0 when the car is off, because it does)
3)cam sensor is plugged in
4)I have brand new clevite lifters in there

How else to I tell what my map sensor reads? I dont have a boost gauge..











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

I felt quite a boost when I finally installed my cams. They were measured and I didn't go by the casting numbers due to people telling me that the casting numbers were wrong

I loved them. the only mods I had at the time I had them in were the 2.3 crank pulley, the HO intake and TB combo. and that's it.

I have no proof as to a dyno though. sadly... I like the little boost I get. but don't expect the moon with this mod.

you could measure the voltage on your map sensor, but I am not sure what it should be at idle.

did you time the engine yourself? compression will tell you if everything is aligned correctly. I have fixed jobs that shops have done incorrectly when they do water pumps so I am not trying to knock you in any way.

when I had a vacuum leak on my signal line to my MAP sensor, the car ran like crap until about 50%+throttle where the map sensor would see near atmospheric anyways, so the leak in the line didn't really affect anything. Does the car run good aside from idle? if so I would check for a vacumm leak, usually you can hear them easily.

did you use stock injectors? or the exact same ones that came outta the old engine?....

I have also had a problem once with a signal wire to my coil shorting out (pinched between shifter cables) so the car would run erratic from time to time.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

Yes, I timed the car myself while the engine was out of the car.. Im 99% sure I got it right because I spent 2 days doing it.. I had 3 J manuals with me as well so I could do it step by step.

Also above 1k rpm the engine runs fun, of course thats while in park.

I have in there 2k1 injectors that had only 50,000 miles on them.

Whats a good Compression all the way across the board so Ill know when I do the compression check?











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

compression should be 200ish +/- 15... more wouldn't be bad


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

Jrobz23 wrote:The 95 intake is not worth the time or money IMO, just look at the specs. The exhaust cam is for sure though.

to the guy that felt nothing:

do you have your cams timed corectly? cuz the exhaust cam alone should give you a noticable gain.

I measured so im sure they were the right cams. and yes everything is timed correctly. Im not saying that they didn't give me any more power because im sure they did. but not a noticeable 15-20hp like what i heard about... maybe more like 5hp.

and i didn't really feel a big difference with my exhaust either, its just louder and annoys the @!#$ out of me

ge_forcez22 wrote:new engine, thats exactly what I did and it runs perfectly,

1)what is your compression?
2)fuel pressure?
3)cams sensor plugged in?
4)did you reuse your lifters? (you can reuse them but then you should reset them)5)map sensor ==> boost gauge -20 ish at idle, and any other vacumm leaks,

the issue is likely (99 not related to the cam swap.

What do you mean reset them ? the sticky didnt say nothing about that did it? i thought it was just taking the old cams out and throwing in the newones.

some people will disagree, but if you have a sticky lifter you may not notice it with stock cams, once you install the higher lift cams, it is possible (not very probable) that if you have a sticky lifter you could have a few valves that don't shut all the way... most cases this would work itself out after a little while...

but soaking them in oil and pushing them in and lets them release a couple times in a good practice.


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED

Pushing them in ? gimmy some details cause im about to do it. on an 75k engine. i was jus tthinking on not even touching the lifters at all. just getting the stock cam and just replacing the Lo cam. is there a guide out there ? or something that has pics ? all i see are part lists. my chiltons book does not say anthing about reseting the lifters ... anyone care to explain the process for once ?

pretty simple, take them out (makring which hole they came outta) then push the lifter together, and the next time your car starts they will tighten up. Do not use a vice you will colapse lifters, and if they dont push together, soak them in oil for a couple hours and try again..


HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED