man im not sure hoew to put the chain back on? i didnt take the lower tensioner shoe off. and i pushed the tensioner back in so all i have to do is kick it out once installed. but the slack in the chain is what is worrying me. i have the tensioner out now but at the top of the spocket should the chain be really tight? slightly loose? im losted
you will need to retime the engine which is super easy to do. you will need 2 dowls (3/8" bolts will do IIRC). The reason we turned the engine off TDC is just incase the spring pressure decided to turn a cam and snap a valve onto a piston (once you do it you will understand) so ensure that the cam gears are installed and torqued on, (loctite too) then find the little timing hole (which you have seen on your new gears by now), and insert the dowls in the aligning holes in the block (5 and 7 o'clock IIRC) and then your cams are adjusted. VERY SLOWLY turn the engine back to TDC ensuring the pistons do not hit the valves, and install the chain, guides, tensioner, then push the tensioner with flat screwdriver to reset it, and you have just timed the engine and tightened the chain up.
IMPORTANT : MAKE SURE WHEN THE DOWLS ARE IN THE CAM GEARS THE CHAIN HAS ZERO, NONE, 0, SLACK, AND NO SLACK BETWEEN THE INTAKE CAM AND CRANK. THEN LET THE TENSIONER REMOVE ALL THE REMAINDER OF SLACK. once you are sure the tensioner is reset and tightened up chain, remove dowls, and ensure nothing moved. turn the engine over 2 revolutions to make sure nothing is binding, and put the cover back on... and you'll be driving in no time.
*tip: do not pry on the cover for any reason, it will bend and leak oil forever if you do.
*tip: to get the one "impossible bolt on the mount, you may need to use the hole in the motor mount bracket on the passenger fender, it is a 18mm, you may have to lift engine up to align the socket.
*tip, while the timing chain is off and engine up, doing a water pump is only an extra 30minutes or so.
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
you can see the 2-bolts (dowls) I have inserted into the cams, that is where the cams will be at TDC. That is how far my cams were and it ran, but not well... Ensure you have no slack on that chain on top.
THIS PICTURE THE CHAIN IS NOT CORRECT.... IT SHOULD NOT HANG, IT SHOULD BE TIGHT!!!!!
HP Tuners | Garrett T3/T04B | 2.5" Charge Pipes | 2.5" Downpipe | 650 Injectors | HO Manifold | Addco front/rear | Motor Mounts | HKS SSQV | Spec stage 3 | AEM UEGO Wideband | Team Green LSD | FMIC | 2.3 cams | 2.3 oil pump swap | 280WHP | Now ECOTECED
but the crank dot are suppost to line up still, that how i took it off? the two dot lined up or not?
yes, the dot should be on with the crank if the cams are like shown above, according to manuals, if you have to turn the cams more than 15 deg, then turn the crank 90 degrees clockwise, then turn it back to center counterclockwise when you're ready to time, align the cam gears up with the pins (or bolts), put the chain on, tight on top, slack is down past the waterpump on the exhaust side, put the tensioner on, then turn it two turns, if the marks are still lined up, then put the guides on, and you should be good.
thanks guys for the help. i was mostly worried about getting it right but what i read and what i was doing was the right way. i turned the crank like four times over before i started it up. run great and didnt have any lifter bleed down at at it seems. the only thing i might of done that was hack was kinda forceing the cam cover onto the housing but didnt seem to be any other way. i guess as i tightened them the cam would push the valve open a bit. everything looked really good inside, chain, spockets. lifters.
man oops i forgot the to tighten the wheel cause i wanted to rip so bad but i got down to the end of the street and i remembered like a ton of bricks and tightened in the middle of the road and went cruising.
it an decent gain, little peppier. pulls hard through first and spun a bit into second, i havent done that for awhile. but the only down side is i think the timing chain cover leaks cause i used the same gasket. and my hands are a bit cut up.
nick renaud wrote:thanks guys for the help. i was mostly worried about getting it right but what i read and what i was doing was the right way. i turned the crank like four times over before i started it up. run great and didnt have any lifter bleed down at at it seems. the only thing i might of done that was hack was kinda forceing the cam cover onto the housing but didnt seem to be any other way. i guess as i tightened them the cam would push the valve open a bit. everything looked really good inside, chain, spockets. lifters.
man oops i forgot the to tighten the wheel cause i wanted to rip so bad but i got down to the end of the street and i remembered like a ton of bricks and tightened in the middle of the road and went cruising.
it an decent gain, little peppier. pulls hard through first and spun a bit into second, i havent done that for awhile. but the only down side is i think the timing chain cover leaks cause i used the same gasket. and my hands are a bit cut up.
Mine's always spun into 2nd on a good day, and when its wet it goes all the way thru 2nd, and starts to spin on the top end of 1st naturally. I had the same think on the cam cover, i had to seem to push the cam down on the lifters, not sure why though, but took it somewhat easy. Only thing that occured for me that ive still yet to fix was that now my idle is crappy few minutes after starting the car cold, the fan comes on early, and the car doesnt seem to get warm as quick as it used to (changed waterpump and t-stat too)
i didnt do the water pump or the thermostat maybe in the future. i thought you had to take the exhaust mani off? if thats so i do it when i bolt the turbo on.
i also removed the egr and had the check engine light on for awhile now since i put the new exhaust on i reused the o2 sensor and think it bad.
all these minor improvement seems to bring back some of the performance loss from old age 167 or 110 km/m.
i know you went with higher cams i would of loved to do that but i already had these ones. man the tokico i cant spawk, i can just feel the tire spining. also maybe i let off a bit when changing gears just naturl movement i guess form driving slow lol
