hello jbo. I have a 98 2.2 cav with the usual bolt -ons :pacesetter header, aem cai, cat back exhaust, wires, ngk plugs. I have upgraded the brakes, suspension, wheels and tires, interior, and exterior. My car is now at 106,000 miles, but it runs great. I just replaced the clutch assembly,and I am thinking about a rebuild on the engine itself. I feel, Since it is going to be apart, why just put it back together stock? So I am going to ask a couple of questions concerning a rebuild ( and I tried searching).

1) I read somewhere a long time ago, that the 2.2liter is already about as bored/ stroked as it can be, because it was a smaller motor that GM already increased the displacement of at the factory. Is this true?

2) In an ideal world, I would like to purchase something like a lunati stroker kit ( like they make for LS-1's) that have most of the parts in a package deal. Does anybody know a company that has this, or an improved crate motor?

3) I live in california, Would a rebuild pass smog, and what components contribute to this?

4)I am also thinking about nitrous, and a lower compression ratio to handle the power, any info would be helpful.

5) I saw another post recommeding patriot performance heads, does anybody know the hp gain on this mod, and will it affect emmissions?http://sites.reachtheworld.tv/waterNew/default.asp?T=505242&DID=1225

I know this is a lot of questions, but any help would be appreciated, especially from those of you who have further explored this avenue, or have had your engines rebuilt. It seems as if the performance catagory has to do mainly with bolt-ons, and I am curious about taking my car to the next level, without the extremes of having to go to a northstar v-8 swap. Thanks again.

well after reading twelve pages I found this:

Okay, I've been playing with the Desktop Dyno Basic, again and I found some really good info! Remember these statements are as of yet untested on a real engine, but the Pro Racing Sim software is supposed to be the most accurate software available, presuming the tuning is done correctly.

Let's say you've got a 2.2L/2200 with the normal bolt-ons; intake, 56mm TB on 2200 (55mm bored over TB on 2.2L), Header and full 2 1/4" exhaust (including cat). You motor is in need of rebuild and you want some more torque and horsepower and you don't want the hassle some of us are going through for last bit of grunt.

1. Do a good rebuild of the block, this includes: bore and hone the block (+.5mm/+.020", +.75mm/.030" or +1mm/.040" as needed) using some good stock replacement pistons (hyperutectic if possible), good rings (molly preferably), good bearings (Clevite77), a '93 & older oil pump, new timing set, gaskets, etc.... Get the block surfaced to straighten the deck and/or for more compression, but not more than about .030" between the head and block. Get it balanced. This is what all basic builds should have done.

2. Get/build a good head. If you build your own, do a good P&P, get it surfaced (remember no more than .030" between head and block) get a good valve job (+1mm OS valves if you like) and make sure your springs are in spec or just get a set of new stock springs. If you don't want the work just get the Patriot Performance head (Stage II, preferably).

3. Get Crane Cams to regrind your cam. Here's the surprise I found on the dyno sim I ran: the Crane Powermax 2030 grind, the very same specs as their SBC grind. It's specs are 204int./214exh @ .050", .429" int/.452" exh w/ 1.5:1 rockers. Yes 2200s step down to this ratio, the stock rocker arms will probably work to, but will push the limits of your springs. 2.2L's you can get by with a 1.6:1 rocker, but you will push the springs really hard too. Either one of the previously mentioned will seriously risk valve float. Yes, the intake lift is less than stock, but don't worry you like the final results. What this cam does is, give you a little more intake duration and even more exhaust duration and lift, with a later intake opening. What does all this mean, more torque and horsepower across the board. These are some decent gains, even on a stock motor! If you do all the things listed above, you should be making more torque and horsepower than a stock Eco and with the peaks at lower rpms! (With the proper tuning, of course.) No need to raise the rev limiter here either, the power and torque take a nose dive right after the 6000rpm limit.

Those with a manual tranny should have no problems running this motor, automatic you will still need a torque converter(2560stock replacement/2600aftermarket-2795/2800 rpm stall) and/or lower gear ratio, depending on tranny model and set-up.

Note: this cam will work very well with nitrous, up to a 75 shot if you use the better parts listed above and the proper ignition upgrades.

All that above might read like a lot of work, but it's not that much for a rebuild using mostly stock replacement parts and some typical bolt-ons. If you do some shopping around you can get this done for less than the typical Eco swap. If you do your own work, you could just about put that nitrous system on there too!

Hell, this combo (w/o the nitrous) is supposed to make more torque and horsepower than my current set-up! That will change once I get my new head done. If I had this program before I needed to do my rebuild, I would have followed this set up.Now if I can get all the little things to stop wearing out on me, I'll get my new head done.

this is the kind of thing I was looking for. Thanks

and this:


Ok here it is

Head work (incl porting, valves, seals,springs, seats) 1000
Eagle rods 300
ross custom pistons 386
JE wrist pins 60
ringset 50
rod bearings 50
main bearings 40
head studs and nuts 100
cam bearings 18
heat treat / nitride crank 95
polish crank 30
bake and blast block 75
deck block 50
bore and hone with plates 136
rockers, studs and nuts 300
timing set 28
tensioner 15
oil pump 57
gasket set 104
balance 150
oring cylinder head 80
reciever groove block 80
cam regrind 150
mian studs and hardware 70
assembly 240

so thats $3664 total.

I had some other AN fittings and stuff on my first bill that took it over 4k.

Dan

If you are interested, I am selling my 98-02 2.2 liter forged aluminum Venolia pistons that have a compression of 9:1, pin oilers, oversized wrist pins, and spiral locks. I am also selling the Eagle forged rods with the pistons. The rods have been machined to fit the oversized wrist pins.




275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!

I had dealings with Patriot and their heads for my 2200. There is no Stage 2 for the 2200, or for the 2.2 to my knowledge. They are unable to put bigger valves into their heads or atleast thats what i was told from Gunnar who works there/owner. It was very well done and everything was up to par except i had a problem with one of the spark plug holes. So i had to send it back and since i HAD ordered the stage 2 with +1mm valves, which is all he stated was included, it had no such valves, stock size, so i have to get some sort of refund. I would love to tell you it gave me huge gains, but i also put the Crane Roller Rockers on at the same time, so they helped out a bunch too, but i still saw alot more power in the mid to upper ranges. I dont believe P&Ping a head affects emmissions other than the fact that you dump more fuel like any other major mod. So MPG is down the toilet. any more questions about Patriot, hit me up, or ill keep an eye on this.