Mine's been down for over 3 years...
slowolej wrote:Quote:
It's even better that it's THAT 4cyl. They expect an Ecotec. Or an LD9. That's the best part. The other part I like is when it's the Camaro guy that's wiping the smile off his face and you tell him you used parts made for HIS ENGINE.
... That you bought on Ebay, for 1/2 what they were worth, after he pulled 'em to install something shinier that he saw in Hot Rod!!
-->Slow
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
If it wasn't for inheriting my dad's 98 LeSabre when he passed away, I'd be in the same boat. The upside the car always starts. The downside is it sat for so long I had to do a ton of repairs to get it up and running. Flush the coolant, a full tune-up since it never had one when he was alive, a new pressure regulator because the diaphram stuck, new thermostat, and now the A/C isn't working right. It blows mostly cold air but I can't get the vents to switch and the blower seems a little weak. But hey, it always starts and looks brand new. More than I can say for the Cavalier right now.
stevefire wrote:lucky you, my sf is my only car, and its been down for 3 weeks so far. still waiting on my EMS to get here. Im 3 weeks behind schedule.
Which EMS are you getting? I've got my car running again
Breaking it in now, I should post the video's from the first start. Turbo soon to come. OHV POWER!
dude, what are YOU running?
I have a lot of local technical support for the commander 950 *zips up the flamesuit* lots of guys have used it for years.
you lucky SOB, I knew you'd be ahead of me, but its killing me to know I COULD be in the same boat right now!!
I guess I could post some update pictures..
stevefire wrote:dude, what are YOU running?
I have a lot of local technical support for the commander 950 *zips up the flamesuit* lots of guys have used it for years.
you lucky SOB, I knew you'd be ahead of me, but its killing me to know I COULD be in the same boat right now!!
Flamesuit? For what, trying something most of the others haven't? That just show progressive thinking! I like that!
I was advised not to use it by a certain J who might be old, and slow
lol but never got a reason why.
ok, im sorry if you feel this 'jacks' your post, but it is tied in with what others have been discussing about downtime:
update pics
heres a pic of the fire getting cleaned and prepped to be towed to the exhaust shop
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/Downpipe/downpipe019.jpg
picture of my 2.5" MB DP custom made by us
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/Downpipe/downpipe001.jpg
3" DP back exhaust, to magnaflow satin finish stainless muffler
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates011.jpg
header wrapped by myself
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/Downpipe/downpipe036.jpg
stainless steel lock wire to hold it together
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/Downpipe/downpipe037.jpg
the engine bay as she sits right now (incomplete, I know theres lots missing)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates005.jpg
bolted up the new plenum for mock-up purposes to double check the chargepipe fitment
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates012.jpg
intercooler mounted, chargepipes 98% complete
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates010.jpg
a picture of the cockpit and how it will look once its complete (yes, I need that tach)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates015.jpg
flat black valve cover with weld-in oil filler cap/bung (from summit $20)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/stevefire23/TurboUpdates/updates017.jpg
I know I'll hear a bit of criticism, but thats to be expected. Perhaps I can answer a few questions in the process.
I didn't want to make a new thread, because this is strictly for us OHV folks, and not the 'uneducated' others. Some of them just dont get it.
sorry for the bold and 'unbold' not sure how to fix that...
Steve
Man, I think that just became my favorite 'fire
spoiler-less, muted, rims fit perfect, nice stance...killer motor
But, where's the top-feed?
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
ah yes, this is just the original motor
I want to get the standalone to run the old one before I throw the new one in. Helps to avoid any 'teething' while trying to get the engine to start.
the top feed will be on the new motor, I promise
thanks
oh ya, SRT-4 rims, haha.
wow. looks good man.
haha yeah i hate being behind schedule.. but do it right the 1st time.. somethign like this u dont wanna have ass.
Not bad at all.
Just a couple things I might have a concern with. Take these as constructive criticisim, not cutting you work down.
First, the domn pipe, I know your tring to keep the hear down in the engine compartment, but the header wrap will destry the dp. It traps the heat in the metal, instead of in the pipe. Wrap also holds moisture, wich will speed the decay of the metal. Wrap is good for race cars, but not for street cars. Try looking into getting it ceramic coated, it will look better and last much longer.
Secondly, the charge pipe from the turbo to the intercooler, make sure thats not hanging too low. I know the photo can be decieving, just want to make sure you dont crush it on a bump or drag a hole in it.
Other than that, it looks good!
ps: bracket, capital B, close bracket for bold, bracket, forward slash, capital B, close bracket to unbold. I had to type it, otherwise it just did the command and woudn't show it!
thanks jack
the downpipe:
its for this year only. next year its getting a full stainless 3" MB DP and am converting to an external WG. I am concerned about the deteriorating downpipe, as it is only aluminized steel. Yet at the same time I know that for the little amount of time I have left to drive it this year, it should at least last me for that long. (naturally, its being parked for the winter months)
the chargepipe:
may not be sitting that low once I'm done. 98% done means theres a small section from the outlet of the turbo to that length of pipe that needs to be made up yet. That should pull the whole thing a little higher then the downpipe sits.
also, the chargepipe as it passes by the downpipe is getting a wrapping of DEI Cool Tape to keep the heat out. Thats the best I can do and still cut down on piping length.
thanks for the help so far, keep it coming!
Stevefire... If you were in this area, I'd drive to your place and install a GM ECM. You'd be running by the end of the weekend. It kills me that you've been down this long.
Why no Holley? I dunno. I guess I've worked on so many early systems... overpriced and underqualified, and fought with junk Holley replacement throttle bodies, and sat on the phone for hours trying to get tech support (I don't think a real human actually works in tech support), and looked at expensive replacement sensors which are actually GM over the counter parts, that I just don't want to support them. The GM stuff is cheap and it works.
Quote:
Got that right. You know, my friends give me a lot of sh*t because I still haven't got the VR4 yet, and yeah, I want one, but this LN2 thing is just too intriguing to just give it up. It's kind of fun being the underdog. Plus it's not my only car so if I screw it up no big deal.
That is exactly my situation. Well, if I screwed it up my pride would probably be hurt. And my friends would only give me sh*t if I did get a VR4.
Notec! 3 years??? I guess I'm not moving that slowly after all.
I guess I should try and include something in this post that's related to the title. As far as machine costs go, there are some operations that I just don't pay for. For instance, cam bearings. I made a decision years ago to buy a cam bearing installer. I felt that the price of the installer would be well worth the money I'd save over the years. So I contacted a machinist friend and he made an installer for me. The great thing about doing my own cam bearings is that it allows me to do all the block cleaning. I get to knock out all the plugs in the oil and coolant galleys and run various brushes and cleaner through all the passages to remove years of accumulated crud. Sure, the machine shop can do a decent job, but to be very meticulous (which they will) they have to charge for the extra time spent. I'd rather spend the time myself. So I save the cleanup charge and the cam bearing installation charge in my engines. But that doesn't mean I don't spend the money. The $70 - $90 savings gets spent on additional block work. It's tough to find guys that will do quality machine work. If they don't get paid enough to stay open, they may not be in business the next time you need them.
-->Slow
Yeah, 3 years. I have really crappy luck w/ my daily drivers so I end up having to buy a new one every summer (#4 will be this month...getting another OHV J this time, I've learned my lesson), and other crap keeps coming up (like finding out I have to make up my deformable solids class this summer...$800).
And of course there's the fact that I can't make up my mind about the car and it's intended purpose lol. Now I've decided to sell my old head (never even got to use it) and build another up with more potential
But, I've also decided to finish up the engine before doing the body work so that I can cut and weld away as necessary until everything's ready, which means the engine has the potential to be in over the winter...finally.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
It is good to have a freind that owns a machine shop. Infact the one I goto, I used to do some part time work for/with. I mostly just tore down and cleaned the motors. I was working my regular job from midnight to 8 am, then i would go in fot 3-4 hours in the morning for about 3-4 days a week(he hired a guy to do that for 30hrs a week now, not a machinest/engine builder, but does a good enough job). I can do all the prep work for them and get an outstanding deal in the end. Used to do some of the machine work on my parts myself., of course a good shop is going to get alot of business, and now he's much busier, so now I do my prep and leave it for when they can get to it. The good prices only come on my motors, which are few and far between now. If the motors for someone else, he charges them full price. I did the full tear down of my motor, blueprinted the oiling system, P&Ped the head, polished the rod beams and balanced the rods all myself.He tanked(I did the brush work), bored, honed and surfaced the block and polished and spun the crank(balance was good!!)and shot peen the rods, resized them and pressed the piston pins. His head man, surfaced the head and did the valve seats, while I checked the springs. I still did all my own assembly work of both the head(seals,seats springs, locks, plug and reatiners) and block (cam bearings, freeze plugs, file fit rings, etc..).
He's been good to me and taught me allot, so I reffer everyone to him. He even sold my Ex a car that the customer never picked up, nor paid their bill, long story short, legally sold her the car at his cost.
I also have a friend who has a tool and machine shop, that does my custom parts. He's also a dirt track racer who taught me allot.
It's great to have friends like that, when your in a hobby like this!
all I bought was the ECU and the pro software upgrade. A local guy here is using GM sensors and just a repinned connector. Not that bad.
Its like running the Haltech E6GMX, but with more options..cam sensor input, knock sensor input, wideband input, etc.
also, I got quoted $500CDN to deck the head, prep wash the block, change the cam bearings, grind/balance the crank, pin fit the pistons and rods, and align hone. when i got to the shop, he told me I owed him $800!! So much for getting a deal. I should have got it in writing somehow. That pissed me off. I know I need to pay for quality work, and it really was, so I just footed the bill.
talk about underestimating the work needed to get done!
oops deck the head I mean deck the block
Love the progress Steve. I'm going to be doing some g-tech runs tomorrow, and see what i get on my car.
I'll have to make a thread in a few days about my build, etc.
As far as my maching costs, I paid about $640 USD, at a local place that a co-worker of mine got his 3s-GTE toyota engine rebuilt at, and they did a good job on that too. So, I got mine done there. they bored my one bad cylinder, pressed in a sleve to bring it back to 0.020 over stock. They flow tested my cylinder head, prep, and did all the assembly on the engine, including cam, timing chain, oil pump, and oil pan. They also assembled the components on my cylinder head all for that price. Also, with my eagle rods, and wiseco pistons, I switched to a floating wrist pin setup, so, that price included them boring the rods to accept the wrist pin for a floating setup. (cause I don't want what happen last year to happen again, wrist pin sliding into cylinder wall!)
Man, you got a pretty decent deal on all that. Do you have the results of your flowbench by any chance?
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
is it safe to assume the head was fully ported and polished?
if so, a flow chart would be great. (if we had stock specs to compare to)
I don't have it, they never gave it to me, I only had them test it to see if a particular sparkplug thread would leak or not. I never got a sheet back from it, but it was a full port and polish job. Sorry guys. Once I break the motor in, I want to take it to the dyno in a few weeks, and get a baseline before I go turbo.
