hey just as the title says, how reasonable would it be to get a ecotec to reach 180 whp, all motor. anyways i was just curious. but if it is not possible how high do you guys think i could get-all motor of coures.
the purpose of this is because i would like more power out of my car but in not to crazy about forced induction. also i would want to TRY to stay away from premium gas, so i guess things like a higher compression ratio would be out of the question. (or would it be, i dont really know.)
thanx
luke
erg....
ok, where do i start? Is 180 whp possible? Yes, very. It will require, at the very least, a set of aftermarket cams, a good port and polish of the head, i/h/e, and i'm sure a lighter flywheel and underdrive pulley/ies wouldn't hurt. But the most important factor is tuning. Before i even get on the gas topic, why 180whp? Power is simply a means to a goal, you want more power to accomplish something. What is it you're trying to accomplish? A specific 1/4 mile time, beating a certain other car, what? Its much better to decide the goal of the car first, then use that to determine what the power goal of the motor should be.
Anyway, wanting to achieve this # still on 87 octane is going to limit greatly the amount of ignition advance that you can run, which may limit power significantly. In my opinion, I wouldn't even want to try to build any kind of N/A setup that goes beyond basic bolt-ons and then tune it for 87. why handicap yourself? If the 20-30 cents difference (it only amounts to$3.50 or so per tank) between regular and premium is going to break your bank account, you're much better off getting a daily beater and only driving the J for fun/track days, or not modding the car at all and saving for more important things, like college, or a house. I can understand going paycheck to paycheck to pay bills and feed oneself, but don't get into the hole of going paycheck to paycheck for your next mod like some people on this board do.
It always drives me nuts how people constantly want to go faster without spending any money, and then on top of it try to run regular gas as well. Going fast costs money, its that simple. If you don't have the money to do it right, then save your money and wait until you can. If you're going to drop $2-3 grand in a built eco swap, why would you want to handicap yourself like that? How many tanks per week do you use? 1-2? 3.50 more per tank for 52 weeks is only going to save you $180 over a year. If you use 2 tanks a week you save $364... thats a dollar a day... You'd probably save more money by brewing your own coffee in the morning isntead of stopping at wawa.
Luke, don't take this as a burn, or me yelling at you, because thats not what it is at all.... its just that trying to skimp on fuel always gets brought up everytime fuel prices go up and its very frustrating. You can only get to a certain level of power on a given octane grade before encountering knock, knock is bad. The amount of money saved just plain isn't worth it. Fab your own intake, or buy a few parts used instead of new (non-wear items obviously) and you'll pretty much have the difference made up.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
thanx man, i didnt really mean that i wanted to limit myself like that or that i just wanted to go the cheap route. 180 just seemed like a nice round number. and in all actuality running premium is not a big deal for me, but it would be nice if i didnt have to.
you ask about a goal i had in mind. my goal is just to have a fun-er to drive daily driver i like working on cars but i dont really have a motivation beyond that. i might take it to the track once in a while but im 19 and i really have no intrest in heavy competition.
i understand where you come from when you say that it is frustrating to hear *noobs* talk about wanting to go fast without spending any money, and thats not me. i do want to do things right, but i see no reason in spending money that i dont have to, so in the end, base on what you said, i will prolly just use higher octane, i would rather be safe than be cheap.
i must say, as frustrating as my question may have been, thank you for taking it in stride.
Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:erg....
ok, where do i start? Is 180 whp possible? Yes, very. It will require, at the very least, a set of aftermarket cams, a good port and polish of the head, i/h/e, and i'm sure a lighter flywheel and underdrive pulley/ies wouldn't hurt. But the most important factor is tuning.
Don't forget higher C-R pistons.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:erg....
ok, where do i start? Is 180 whp possible? Yes, very. It will require, at the very least, a set of aftermarket cams, a good port and polish of the head, i/h/e, and i'm sure a lighter flywheel and underdrive pulley/ies wouldn't hurt. But the most important factor is tuning.
Don't forget higher C-R pistons.
well he said he wanted to try and avoid that, truth be told, with REAL tuning done through HPT, you MIGHT be able to get close to 180 whp, on a dynojet anyway... PJ's dynoed 142 or so almost completely stock.... Remember, we have yet to see an N/A eco on here with cams, pnp head, and a TRUE tune with both the fuel AND ignition maps optimized on a dyno... only half -assed, throw-the-cams-in-and-hope-it-works setups have popped up so far. If anyone's going to do it within the next few weeks, it'll probably be Owen, but his is also 11:1 compression.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
^Missed that part completely--- a.k.a. did not read.
^
Now 142 on the dyno, was that showroom stock?
I dunno, that # seems to high for "stock" because I got 136whp (135.8) on a stock motor and when I mean "stock motor," I mean--- off the Lordstown, OH assembly plant stock.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
I took out a mustang gt saturday night, from a 30 roll to 70 we were head to head, then up to 90 I passed him up and shut off due to traffic. I know I can't talk about my street racing on here but I have an eco with I/H/E, JBP stage III cams, ground kit, engine mounts, 62mm tb, weight reduction, and I'm loving the "fun-er daily drive". All I need is P&P and an ECM reflash, and I'll be done for awhile. It's amazing how under-rated my car is, that's what makes it so much funner (Even I thought I was going to be spanked). So honestly don't count on numbers, because the gt is v8, 300hp+ (more because of his mods), and I still took him out, it all depends on what your car can actually put out.
Have fun, and good luck.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
Its possible. I've spec'd out a LN2 at 300+ WHP NA, but it starts costing a lot. Somethings are cheap, like P&P blueprinting, Throttlebody, even the ECM can be tuned if your using a 98 and newer and hp tuners, or you get a 95 ecm and my project, but then it does get expensive when you include build time and the more chance to blow stuff up.
I think the reason most people go boost is because NA motors produce their power higher in the rpm bands, where as bolting on a boost device can get you significant gains for less money. Tho, there's always something to be said about a motor that looks for the most part, bone stock to the naked eye and goes faster than these SRT-4's.
you could shatter the 180whp barrier on an eco, you could prolly get to around 220-225whp na if you went all out on it, and thats alot and it would scream
Bonnett wrote:you could shatter the 180whp barrier on an eco, you could prolly get to around 220-225whp na if you went all out on it, and thats alot and it would scream
Agreed^^^ - ...but with great power...comes great responsibilty!
Silver Stripey makes your Day!
guys this dude has an ohv not an eco..... 180 whp n/a ? that's about double what he has now...
I can't see it happening unless he wants to spend 10k+... but what do I know eh
15.574 @ 89 mph stock without charger. new times with charger coming soon.
was my post deleted?
if it was it was probably because I thought he had an eco lol
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actually i do have an eco, the thing is that i JUST bought the eco and that alone is a huge improvement from the ohv that i was running before, i got a hell of a deal on it to, its an 04 with 20,000 miles, loaded, for just over 6,000
but yeah i do have to change my profile, i just havent gotten around to it yet. sorry for the confusion
dario wrote:i forogt, how much a difference is it between whp to bhp, 10% ? 15% ?
hmmm..... i usually just round it up by about 30 hp. so 120 whp = 150 hp (at the crank), but it varies a lot, a lot of the time it is less of a difference than 30.
try 12% for fwd, 15% for rwd, and around 20% for an automatic
not just a random 30 hp lol
so in this case, 180x1.12= 201.6 bhp
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
might get a percent or two back...
I'll dyno my car one of these days, give me time folks, I just spent $7g, I need to recover before investing on a day at the dyno.
jay you dont need a head on en ecotec to get 180 whp... I hit 149 whp and 152 tq at ZERO degrees timing at Full throttle runnign way rich on my bug cams and was still making power at the limiter.. add in the 30 degrees of advance there should be and tune fuel and raise the limiter and I can gurantee 170 whp if not more
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oh and btw you want a apcesetter header not a junk weapon r or rk sport... that would also help which I had the rk sport
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wake up people