i am wanting to do the following to my engine and was wondering if nebody has these parts on theirs and has had any problems and i am getting most of the parts from turbotechraing.com unless nebody else knows a cheaper site.
-FYI i already have a cylinder head i got off ebay for $50 so i really need to knw about the cams and valve springs n all that first
-rksport high flow CAI
-Eagle connecting rods
-all rksport engine mounts
-dc sports ceramic coated header 4-1
-competition cams stage two
-ferrera valves and valve springs
-fidanza aluminum flywheel
-arp head stud kit
-eagle 4340 forged crank
-spec stage 2+ clutch kit
-darton engine sleeve kit
-10:1 wiseco forged pistons w/.020+ bore
-quafie LSD
-NGK iridium plugs(already have)
-nitrous express direct port nitrous injection 200-500 shot
-full port n polish
-custom full exhaust w cat delete (excluding header)
-gm performance parts internal balance shafts
-gm performance parts intake manifold
there is only 1 problem though im still trying to find an ignition system to burn a hotter spark but still keep the power steering. Any knowledge on any defects these part may have. thanks
lol
Best time:"""11.946""" @ 114.73 mph @17psi 1.83--60"
11 second daily driver!!!!
Race Related 727-561-9440
Shop of choice for your 11 second J body!
Also, built bottom end and or top end LSJ and L61's available.
13's
----12's
----11's
----10's
darton sleeves. wooo wooo. its a closed deck block you idiot.
Blew it up, build numbers coming soon
darton makes sleeves you retard..its not a closed deck.i just pulled sleeves outta my spare stock block
*************Yea i spell liek wrong get over it*****************
** If i write in caps its cause im @ work and i can only write in caps cause the keyboard is a retarded CAPS only keyboard.**
Wow....i gotta get myself one of those money trees.
Oh the haters... why not point the kid in the right direction instead of quoting someone's dumbass remark.
First of all, a 500 shot will blow holes in that head/piston/block etc so fast you wont know what hit ya... your build is good for maybe 500 total... and detonation isnt your friend. Oh yeah, the nitrous will turn those plugs into globs of molten iridium, use copper plugs.
Now for your hotter ignition, the only option that retains the PS is going with an MSD DIS-II and blaster coil packs if you want to run plug wires (I like plug wires over the stock box, makes checking the plugs a bunch quicker.
Here's my built 11:1 Eco with an MSD DIS-II setup:
Now for the head, its going to be cheaper for you to give Hypsy/Team Vision Racing an email and get the Patriot Stage II Fully Assembled head... at only $1300 its at least $500 cheaper than doing it yourself... valvetrain isnt cheap nor is a good port and polish and the patriot flow numbers is within about 5-10% of what I've found the GM racecars doing.
I also wouldnt waste money on sleeves, I highly doubt they'll be your weak point.
Oh yeah, open your wallet... I just finished my build and I spent around $7500 CDN on the motor, tranny, and electronics.
with that kinda most list.... just use a tec 3 to control everything including ignition.
You're going to buy a CAI and a header????
sorry but you are the noob of the year.
If you'd know what you were doing, you'd do your own intake and header. The header you buy on the market are not real header, they just look like a header.
Also, you just threw a bunch of parts in a list and dream about it. even with a 200 shot of nitrous you'll blow it.
You need to learn before doing anything.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
Well not to put you down or anything but I think that you need
to rethink what your doing.
What is your main goal? Speed? All out performance?
Is this your daily driver?
To start with I certainly hope your not planning on porting and poilshing yourself
espcially if you have never done it before.
It's pain staking work and a professional will take 9-12 hours to complete a proper
port and polish. Not only that but if you port too much or polish an area too heavily and
thin out the head in spots, not only are you going to lose horsepower but your run the
risk of really damaging your engine.
Aside from that I think your list is kind of a pipe dream and maybe you need to
put a little more research into your plan.
My suggestion, if this is your first build and you've never had a project car before,
start off small. Build it in stages, do your exhaust and your intake first.
Not sure what Mfk-223 means when he says that the "header" you can buy on the maket
isnt' a real "header" it just looks like one?
.... Are you saying it doesn't connect to the engine and route exhaust out of the combustion
chamber?....
I think what he means is do your research and find a header that will improve on your
exhaust system. Not just a glorified and pretty stock one.
As for nitrous.... I know people running big block v8's who wouldn't use a 500 shot of nitrous oxide.
Remember the displacement of your engine will partial dictate how much nitrous you can inject at
a given time, as well as what other internals and modifications you have done to your car.
Everything will affect your nitrous sytem.
Now since no one really gave you much info and just told you why you shouldn't do what you do
and why your a noob (which it seems you are) I'll give you a quick lesson.
First of all you have to understand what nitrous oxide does.
It's not a fuel by any means!! Nitrous oxide does not act like a fuel.
Just look at it's name. Nitrous OXIDE: it's mean to add OXYGEN to
your intake charge. Having that extra oxygen will allow you to put more fuel
into the combustion chamber and have it burn. Thus making power.
But having this extra oxygen you have to be aware of the effects it has on the engine.
Firs of all do you understand cam shafts and how they work?
Nitrous engines will responde better to different cam profiles than naturally aspirated engines will.
To get the most out of your engine choosing the right cam is key!!
Now if you dont' understand this next part than you should really rethink your nitrous build!!
Nitrous engines are very sensitive to dynamic compression ratio changes, so be aware of
how your cam grind and timing will affect this! Basically a cam with a shorter duration will
yield a higher compression ratio than a cam with a longer duration.
For instace an engine with a static compression ratio of 12:1 using a cam with less than about
240 degrees of duration measured at 0.050 lift can get you into detonation quick!
Something else to consider is exhaust duration. Nitrous engines take in a LOT of oxygen and fuel.
Once that is burned and expands it needs to come out of the engine. Because of this, a cam
with more exhaust duration than you'd normally use on a n/a engine will make more horsepower when
using nitrous. Bear in mind that simply increasing your exhaust duration will chagne your overlap and
so forth the dynamic compression ratio as well as affect the time the intake an exhaust tracts
communicate. Most tuners agree that more power is made by opening increasing the exhaust duration
earlier in the cycle. So for us DOHC engines this means advancing the exhaust cam by means of an
adjustable cam gear is a sure way to make more ponies!
The octane rating of the fuel you use will also influence compression ratio. Because fuels
can only be compressed so much before they detonate, chosing the right fuel to mix with
your nitrous oxide will be important in detonation prevention.
You will also want to learn up on Air/Fuel ratio's. You are going to want ot adjust
your fuel system to fit your nitrous system. If you run you nitrous system too lean
of course the fuel system wont' be able to put enough fuel into the combustion
chamber to burn. If you run your mixture too rich than your not going to have enough
oxygen to burn all of the fuel that is put into the combustion chamber.
To adjust your air/fuel mixture usually you would adjust how much fuel (add more or less)
depending on the amount of oxygen you have to put into the combustion chamber.
This can be done by adjusting pulse duration on fuel injected cars. A larger fuel pump
may be needed, larger injectors, adjustable fuel regulators and bigger fuel rails.
Your spark plugs are also going to be a crucial part of the equation.
To be hones depending on how much nitrous you put into the engine, I wouldn't
worry the most about what kind of metal they are made from (of course that will influence
it) but more to what kind you use and how well they dissapate heat to the cylinder head.
If your spark plugs are too hot, when nitrous is added you could cause detonation which
will kill your engine. Detonation is when you ignite your air/fuel mixture too soon. This causes
major problems and puts all the force of combustion onto the top of the piston rather than extending
it down into the connecting rod and causing the crankshaft to turn. It's kind of like the difference between
hitting a steak into the round with a sledge hammer or shotting the top of it with a rifle.
Now the best recommendation for a nitrous engine would be a spark plug that dissapates heat quickly.
You don't want to use a plug with a long ground strap and here is why. The longer the ground strap, longer
your plug will hold heat rather than conducting it else where. This causess the grounds trap to become
red hot and can cause detonation. Don't so much go by heat range but try to find a plug with a shorter
ground strap. The best is a plug with a short, wide and thick ground strap. Because the strap is shorter
you will dissapate heat to the cylinder head quicker and thus, reduce your risk of detonation. Remember to
choose a plug with a heat range for the type of duty the engine sees.
I could go on for a long while more about nitrous oxide engines but I'll leave you with the basics.
If at this point your confused about any of this information, go purchase a book about nitrous oxide.
I would suggest "Sport Compact Nitrous Injection" by SA Design.
Well hope any of this helps and if I can help in the future drop me an e-mail
btw, owen, nice setup man. any other pics or videos?
and... if you can afford that much nitrous, then you sure as hell can afford a turbo kit.
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Future:
* fully built race engine w 200+plus shot nitrous and tz04 hks turbo
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Youll be lucky that hundred 200 shot of NOS doesn't blow the welds on your intake!
___________________________________________________________________
15.149 @ 91.26mph 3-18-2006
im not feeling the 200 shot of nitrous, you better know how to tune well or know someone who does because thats no joke when a 200 shot hits you lol, id go with a nice zex or venom kit like i have so you can choose between 35 - 50 - 65 - 80 shots. id lower the compression of the pistons down to either 9:0 like me or 9:5 which is stock if i was gonna do a big shot of nitrous, if your gonna boost and spray it 9:0 or 9:5 would be what youd wanna run as far as piston CR. your gonna need upgraded injectors and possibly a bigger fuel pump. id get the valves from karo @ carcustoms.net , thats where i got mine and fit fine of course.
Rowdi wrote:
Not sure what Mfk-223 means when he says that the "header" you can buy on the maket
isnt' a real "header" it just looks like one?
.... Are you saying it doesn't connect to the engine and route exhaust out of the combustion
chamber?....
I think what he means is do your research and find a header that will improve on your
exhaust system. Not just a glorified and pretty stock one.
i think what he means is that if your doing a project THIS big, you would build your own air intake and headers for race purposes
like more flow, and in the end, hp.
jonathan walker wrote:
-custom full exhaust w cat delete (excluding header)
if this is your daily driver, i wouldnt really want to go with a cat delete... its just not a good idea if you wanna get it inspected. but if you wanna go
that way nonetheless, when you get the dc sports header, there is already a "cat-delete" option, to not weld on the flange for the cat... and just
run a straight pipe.
id love to see this actually happen tho... if done the rite way that is.
do some more research on all of those parts and decide what kinda hp range you want and you should be fine
.
good luck.
BlackEco wrote:///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Future:
* fully built race engine w 200+plus shot nitrous and tz04 hks turbo
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Youll be lucky that hundred 200 shot of NOS doesn't blow the welds on your intake!
you started it now.
also your gonna have a nasty whole in the fuel. it probably the reason youl unload in third, so what you gonna need to do is tune you injecotr PW like another Millasecond and you be able to run nines.......in thhe 1/8
"
boobs now with Riboflabin"
Owen how did you get that gauge on the end of the fuel rail like that?
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
