First just a little question of are the H-Tyle Clevitte Main Bearings worth the extra 60 bux or not? I just ordered today my WiseCo pistons and Eagle rods.

As for the crankshaft i do plan on boosting later down the road so should i not knife and light my new crank and just get the balancing and polished and modified jobs done or are they the same thing? What would be the best thing to do?

Thanks


2.340 - 60,
16.591 @ 80.52 - 1/4

Guesswho69000@hotmail.com

honestly... with the bearings just do it... its $60 extra... who cares, especially when your going as far as ripping the engine apart and replacing the rods and pistons ect.. just do it al lat once anddo it right the frist time, same thign with the crank stuff, save up a little extra and get it all done while its all apart, and someoone correct me if I'm wrong but you you can knife edge the crack if you want... I'd balaance the crank, rods, and pistons for sure though.

i have the money its just people said that lightening it might factor in later when i turbo it what would be the best bet?


2.340 - 60,
16.591 @ 80.52 - 1/4

Guesswho69000@hotmail.com

Lightening/knife-edging the crank is only necessary when you're looking for every last ounce of power (NA). For a turbo motor, you can just turn up the boost, so only spend money where it will add strength to your motor. I don't know of many people who would consider a knife-edge cost effective on a boosted motor (only those with DEEP pockets), as you have to pay for the high-density metal they must add afterwards to keep the crank in balance.
Micro-polishing the journals makes the contact surfaces as smooth as possible, which reduces friction (and therefore wear and power-loss) as much as possible...definately something you want to do.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

Dillon Zellmer wrote:i have the money its just people said that lightening it might factor in later when i turbo it what would be the best bet?

It seems you've skimmed through my thread about my turbo 2.4 build and that whole discussion on the bearings and the lightening the crank issue... itseems unnecessary, and more likely unwise, when it comes to boost. Micro-polishing sounds worthwhile to those who are intersted in it.

I heard the stock 2.4 crank is pretty good for 400HP. I wouldnt bother with that knife edge, but Id consider the micro polishing.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

so just get the polished and modified crank work done? should i get it balanced to or no?


2.340 - 60,
16.591 @ 80.52 - 1/4

Guesswho69000@hotmail.com

also what can i get done to valves and who does it? I think i can get them swirled? also does the angle job matter? ill be buyin the patriot head and it only has the 3 angle would a 5 angle be that much better?


2.340 - 60,
16.591 @ 80.52 - 1/4

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^^Just remember you don't wanna get too aggressive on an angle job because you could loose that much torque. I don't know enough to say which is better or anything like that. Im going with the 3 angle job. I don't even know the difference between a 3 and a 5 angle job.












~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

How about getting work done on the oil passages on the crank, I think it's called "chamferring" or something. Does anyone know much about this?


15.3 @ 89.97mph, 14's on the way?

I think the point is being missed here about the knife edging, it's purpose is to help the crank knife through the oil/air in the oil pan and it doesn't weaken the crank at all. Check out any racing crankshaft they are almost always knifedged and lightened, a lighter rotating assembly will accelerate faster too.


2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.

but lightening takes off material which makes it weaker in the long run ill prolly just get the balanced and polished and modified work done or do i not even need the balancing since they come balanced from the dealership? anyone know about the stuff dont to the accual valves?


2.340 - 60,
16.591 @ 80.52 - 1/4

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WHITECAVY wrote:^^Just remember you don't wanna get too aggressive on an angle job because you could loose that much torque. I don't know enough to say which is better or anything like that. Im going with the 3 angle job. I don't even know the difference between a 3 and a 5 angle job.

A 5-angle valve job will flow better, as it provides a smoother surface for the air to flow across. However, it also reduces the valve seat contact area, increasing the amount of stress on the seat, and reducing it's life. Good for high-performance engines that get rebuilt often, not so good for a daily driver.

Dale Young wrote:I think the point is being missed here about the knife edging, it's purpose is to help the crank knife through the oil/air in the oil pan and it doesn't weaken the crank at all. Check out any racing crankshaft they are almost always knifedged and lightened, a lighter rotating assembly will accelerate faster too.

I don't think anyone has said that it weakened the crank (someone expressed concern about turning it down...not sure if that was this thread though). I said it wasn't worth the money because 2-3hp for $200-$300 is rediculous on a boosted engine, just TURN UP THE BOOST. Micro-polishing and chamfering definately worth it, balancing a 4cyl crank is debatable, but I'd do it.
Another thing on knife-edging. Most of the time the machine shop will have to add very high-density metal slugs to the assembly, which adds the weight back (no real weight savings), and costs $$$. If you're worried about the 'oil cloud', get a windage tray and crank scraper, it's cheaper.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

so who does micro-polishing and chamfering? i only know of JBP doing crank work and i dont think they do chamfering. so just the polished and modified work with the balancing is the best way to go? if theres another place that does stuff please let me know?

Thanks


2.340 - 60,
16.591 @ 80.52 - 1/4

Guesswho69000@hotmail.com

Dillon Zellmer wrote:so who does micro-polishing and chamfering? i only know of JBP doing crank work and i dont think they do chamfering. so just the polished and modified work with the balancing is the best way to go? if theres another place that does stuff please let me know?

Thanks

what is the 'modified work'?
Regardless, JBP is overpriced. Any competant machine shop can take care of you. Ask around locally for suggestions.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/PartDetails.php?partId=656&catId=656&catName=JP0656 whatever that includes. cant be much its only 82 bux. n i dont even know where to start askin for shops that do performance stuff, none around here ever really produce performance cars or ever advertise it becide being a regular old shop.


2.340 - 60,
16.591 @ 80.52 - 1/4

Guesswho69000@hotmail.com

Iowa? You're practically in the heart of stock car racing. Ask around in the regional forum for a good machine shop.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

Thanks Notec for that explanation











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

would anyone reccomend this crank??

http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/PartDetails.php?partId=860&catId=860&catName=JP0860