Chris Mackinlay wrote:I can buy clamps at Autozone right? Will the header reach the rest of the exhaust without the converter? I assume it would be okay to let the o2 sensor dangle for the trip and the CEL would turn off after I go it in the converter right?Don't remove your converter yet. Just secure the header pipe to the other pipe near the converter. The shop can chop off your old converter and put the new one on. A band clamp would be your best bet, not a U-Clamp, because that will more than likely deform / crush the end of the header pipe, and it will have to be expanded again back to the right shape. Another reason not to remove you converter yet is because O2 sensors are easily ruined, and although the one in your converter is pretty cheap as opposed to the first one that goes into your header, it's just one less thing that you have to pay for if you ruin it by just letting it dangle there. When something as small and insignificant as oil from your fingertips can ruin an O2 sensor, letting it hang there while you drive around is a bullet-proof way to ruin it. You can get good clamps from basically any auto parts store, or even a regular hardware store.
Chris Mackinlay wrote:Almost forgot, how what do the header bolts need to be torqued to?Not sure. Almost nobody actually measures torque on the bolts anyway. Just get it tight, don't go overboard though, I'd hate to see you snap off a stud or ruin the threads on a stud. There's a pattern to it also. Begin with the bolts in the middle of the flange, and work outward. Start at the center again, and go outward again to makesure you got them all..
Chris Mackinlay wrote:I went to O'Reillys Auto Parts, and they said they'd have to see the header to sell me the right gasket, it's just the stock exhaust manifold gasket I need right?Yes. They're full of s**t if they need to see the header. Just ask for a stock replacement exhaust manifold gasket. They do not need to see the header.
Chris Mackinlay wrote:I went to Autozone tonight and asked for a gasket. They didn't have one, so I asked if they had one for a Sunfire, no go. The guy said it was just machined together. I told him that wasn't the case. He said I should use the one that came with the header. Would I be okay using the stock one with some gasket sealer? I hope so.Do not use the gasket that came with the header. It is pure crap, and by using it you're just guaranteeing yourself to have to undo everything, replace it, and put it all back together again. Either order that new gasket from them and wait on the project, or use the stock gasket already there. Although I would usually never tell anyone to reuse a stock exhaust manifold gasket, it's a better bet than using the one that came with your header.
Chris Mackinlay wrote:Okay, ideal install is 7.5 hours from now. Here's what I do (someone please correct me if I'm wrong):Looks fine to me, don't be worried about it, all it takes is a little caution and patience, just like with anything else.
1. Put car on ramps and cut downpipe right in front of the converter.
2. Unbolt exhaust manifold and remove from the top.
3. Bolt in the header.
4. Get under car and olt downpipe to header.
5. Fasten downpipe to the stock converter.
6. Drive to exhaust stop to have everything welded.
Chris Mackinlay wrote:Oh, before this I want to do the lower engine mount.Excellent idea doing the mount, it will take a lot of stress off your new header. I don't have the Ecotec, but if it's anything like the 2.4L in my car, what you listed there looks exactly right. You might actually find out that you don't need to remove the passenger wheel at all. I did not, there was absolutely no reason to. As for tightening, you're gonna want it pretty damn tight, but don't go overboard.
1. Jack up car.
2. Remove passenger tire.
3. Support the engine with another jack.
4. Remove stock mount.
5. Wiggle new mount into place. (How much do I tighten the new mount? (Tight, Stupidly Tight, As Tight as I can?))
6. Replace front tire.
7. Begin header install.