Header Install - Performance Forum

Forum Post / Reply
You must log in before you can post or reply to messages.
Header Install
Tuesday, February 07, 2006 9:37 AM
What's the best way to have a header, high flow cat, and a glasspack installed? I want to do the header myself, but I can't weld. Would the best thing to do be to drive the car to the exhaust shop with just the header and have them finish it?

Re: Header Install
Tuesday, February 07, 2006 10:33 AM
Those are things that absolutely must be welded, so yes, install the header yourself, clamp it to the rest of the exhaust so you're not running totally "open-header" all the way to the shop, bring them the converter and glasspack, and let them weld it. Please keep an eye on them and make sure they do a good job of welding the best you can tell... some of those guys are horrible welders. If you can, watch the whole process, and since the car is most likely gonna be put on a lift for this, ask if you can crawl under there and look at everything when it's done so you can make sure it's a good seal and that there are not clearance/rubbing/swaying issues. But don't be surprised if they don't let you, many places won't let you do that because it's against the terms of their insurance coverage to even let customers too far into the garage, much less let them crawl around under a 2800-pound car on a lift.




Re: Header Install
Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:14 AM
I can buy clamps at Autozone right? Will the header reach the rest of the exhaust without the converter? I assume it would be okay to let the o2 sensor dangle for the trip and the CEL would turn off after I go it in the converter right?
Re: Header Install
Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:16 AM
Almost forgot, how what do the header bolts need to be torqued to?
Re: Header Install
Tuesday, February 07, 2006 12:01 PM
Chris Mackinlay wrote:I can buy clamps at Autozone right? Will the header reach the rest of the exhaust without the converter? I assume it would be okay to let the o2 sensor dangle for the trip and the CEL would turn off after I go it in the converter right?
Don't remove your converter yet. Just secure the header pipe to the other pipe near the converter. The shop can chop off your old converter and put the new one on. A band clamp would be your best bet, not a U-Clamp, because that will more than likely deform / crush the end of the header pipe, and it will have to be expanded again back to the right shape. Another reason not to remove you converter yet is because O2 sensors are easily ruined, and although the one in your converter is pretty cheap as opposed to the first one that goes into your header, it's just one less thing that you have to pay for if you ruin it by just letting it dangle there. When something as small and insignificant as oil from your fingertips can ruin an O2 sensor, letting it hang there while you drive around is a bullet-proof way to ruin it. You can get good clamps from basically any auto parts store, or even a regular hardware store.

Here's a tip though, when I did my header and converter, I went ahead and bought both O2 sensors brand new. It's often REALLY REALLY hard to get original ones out anyway, and you might end up ruining them in the process anyway. Plus, it never hurts to have new equipment. The rear O2 in the converter is cheap, don't pay more than $30 for it, the first one that goes in the header is a little pricey, but I got mine for $65. I'm so glad I decided to get new sensors even though I didn't really need to, because I'd be pissed off if I got my bitchin' new exhaust installed and my CEL came on because a damn sensor didn't work right when I reinstalled it. Go the extra mile, get the band clamps, the new sensors, a brand new FelPro exhaust manifold gasktet identical to the orginal gasket (do NOT reuse old gasket!!!), and then tackle your project.

Chris Mackinlay wrote:Almost forgot, how what do the header bolts need to be torqued to?
Not sure. Almost nobody actually measures torque on the bolts anyway. Just get it tight, don't go overboard though, I'd hate to see you snap off a stud or ruin the threads on a stud. There's a pattern to it also. Begin with the bolts in the middle of the flange, and work outward. Start at the center again, and go outward again to makesure you got them all..

-9--5--1--3--7-
-10-6--2--4--8-

Pretty sure that's how it goes... someone will correct if that's wrong.




Re: Header Install
Tuesday, February 07, 2006 6:45 PM
The exhaust manifold gasket: would that be at Autozone or some other store, or is that an online thing?
Re: Header Install
Tuesday, February 07, 2006 9:33 PM
Any auto parts store should be able to get you a new gasket. Autozone, NAPA, CarQuest, Advance Auto... you name it.




Re: Header Install
Wednesday, February 08, 2006 7:33 AM
I'll let you know how it goes this weekend. Thanks for all your help and advice!
Re: Header Install
Friday, February 10, 2006 1:59 PM
I went to O'Reillys Auto Parts, and they said they'd have to see the header to sell me the right gasket, it's just the stock exhaust manifold gasket I need right?
Re: Header Install
Friday, February 10, 2006 2:40 PM
Chris Mackinlay wrote:I went to O'Reillys Auto Parts, and they said they'd have to see the header to sell me the right gasket, it's just the stock exhaust manifold gasket I need right?
Yes. They're full of s**t if they need to see the header. Just ask for a stock replacement exhaust manifold gasket. They do not need to see the header.




Re: Header Install
Friday, February 10, 2006 6:45 PM
I went to Autozone tonight and asked for a gasket. They didn't have one, so I asked if they had one for a Sunfire, no go. The guy said it was just machined together. I told him that wasn't the case. He said I should use the one that came with the header. Would I be okay using the stock one with some gasket sealer? I hope so.

Re: Header Install
Friday, February 10, 2006 7:38 PM
Okay, ideal install is 7.5 hours from now. Here's what I do (someone please correct me if I'm wrong):
1. Put car on ramps and cut downpipe right in front of the converter.
2. Unbolt exhaust manifold and remove from the top.
3. Bolt in the header.
4. Get under car and olt downpipe to header.
5. Fasten downpipe to the stock converter.
6. Drive to exhaust stop to have everything welded.

Is there anything I missed? I'm a little apprehensive about doing this mostly by myself.

Oh, before this I want to do the lower engine mount.
1. Jack up car.
2. Remove passenger tire.
3. Support the engine with another jack.
4. Remove stock mount.
5. Wiggle new mount into place. (How much do I tighten the new mount? (Tight, Stupidly Tight, As Tight as I can?))
6. Replace front tire.
7. Begin header install.

Again; anything I missed?

I've read both of these things are fairly easy to do, but I want the peace of mind before I start doing this.
Re: Header Install
Saturday, February 11, 2006 7:40 PM
Chris Mackinlay wrote:I went to Autozone tonight and asked for a gasket. They didn't have one, so I asked if they had one for a Sunfire, no go. The guy said it was just machined together. I told him that wasn't the case. He said I should use the one that came with the header. Would I be okay using the stock one with some gasket sealer? I hope so.
Do not use the gasket that came with the header. It is pure crap, and by using it you're just guaranteeing yourself to have to undo everything, replace it, and put it all back together again. Either order that new gasket from them and wait on the project, or use the stock gasket already there. Although I would usually never tell anyone to reuse a stock exhaust manifold gasket, it's a better bet than using the one that came with your header.
Chris Mackinlay wrote:Okay, ideal install is 7.5 hours from now. Here's what I do (someone please correct me if I'm wrong):
1. Put car on ramps and cut downpipe right in front of the converter.
2. Unbolt exhaust manifold and remove from the top.
3. Bolt in the header.
4. Get under car and olt downpipe to header.
5. Fasten downpipe to the stock converter.
6. Drive to exhaust stop to have everything welded.
Looks fine to me, don't be worried about it, all it takes is a little caution and patience, just like with anything else.
Chris Mackinlay wrote:Oh, before this I want to do the lower engine mount.
1. Jack up car.
2. Remove passenger tire.
3. Support the engine with another jack.
4. Remove stock mount.
5. Wiggle new mount into place. (How much do I tighten the new mount? (Tight, Stupidly Tight, As Tight as I can?))
6. Replace front tire.
7. Begin header install.
Excellent idea doing the mount, it will take a lot of stress off your new header. I don't have the Ecotec, but if it's anything like the 2.4L in my car, what you listed there looks exactly right. You might actually find out that you don't need to remove the passenger wheel at all. I did not, there was absolutely no reason to. As for tightening, you're gonna want it pretty damn tight, but don't go overboard.

Here's a tip that will apply to your header as well as the engine mount:
Tighten the bolts as best you can, drive it around for a couple days, and retighten all of them. This is especially important with the header because it goes through a series "heat cycles" where it heats up when you drive, and cools down when it's off. Since metal expands under heat and contracts as it cools, the bolts will become slightly loose after a couple days, and you need to retighten them. That is perfectly normal. The motor mount doesn't go through a "heat cycle" like the header, but it is under a lot of stress and definitely a lot of vibration, so it is still important to go back a couple days later and retighten them just like you did with the header.




Forum Post / Reply
You must log in before you can post or reply to messages.

 

Start New Topic Advanced Search