What are some of the specs for the cams you are using? I am mainly intrested in boost cams, but I am curious to the durations and lifts of some of the cams. So please share peoples
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
stock 
lol
on my next motor? not sure yet. i'm having a custom grind done to match my... higher redline
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Wow everyone is kind of dead on cam specs. O well, I will do the research at a later date then.
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
heres mine
JBP
Stage 2 2.2/2.4L ECOTEC
Duration @ .050*, Valve Lift
INTAKE 228*, 446
EXHAUST 232*, 448
The one, the only, ME.
Thanks 04eco, how do you like the cams? Have you had any issues with your PCM?
I am bassically in a debate right now on weather or not to do the nessesary research for designing custom boost cams. Now what I am lookin for is what Issues people have had with PCM compadability and so on. But I am looking for a broad cam discussion, both N/A and F/I users.
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
fats02z28 wrote:
I am bassically in a debate right now on weather or not to do the nessesary research for designing custom boost cams. Now what I am lookin for is what Issues people have had with PCM compadability and so on. But I am looking for a broad cam discussion, both N/A and F/I users.
I have ALOT of experience with this.
These are the facts.
There is NO DIFFERENCE between cams for turbo/non-turbo. You cam based ENTIRELY on your intended RPM range. That whole story about overlap and boost is an old wives tale. If you don't agree. I'd like to hear your experiences. I will be happy to tell you all about mine with my turbo race cars, and my cam business.
You won't be designing any custom cams. You are at the mercy of the custom grinder, and what master cam profiles (templates) he has. A cam grinding machine is a type of copy grinder.
Your PCM is programmed to do certain things based on information it gets from the various sensors ( understood ). Once you start to alter lift, and duration (airflow), you go outside of the normal parameters, and your computer is no longer able to compensate. You will ussually end up running rich as a result.
The modern 16V 4cyl motor is very sensitive to changes in airflow. You can typically get away with very little increase in duration on the intake side (a few degrees at .050"), but more on the exhaust.
Lift increases more than about .5mm will start to cause problems, with the intake being more sensitive than the exhaust again.
If you are turboing, you will have to be able to tune, anyway, so it won't matter.
.410" lift and 212 degrees duration, turbocharged.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
NOSfly wrote: I have ALOT of experience with this.
These are the facts.
There is NO DIFFERENCE between cams for turbo/non-turbo. You cam based ENTIRELY on your intended RPM range. That whole story about overlap and boost is an old wives tale. If you don't agree. I'd like to hear your experiences. I will be happy to tell you all about mine with my turbo race cars, and my cam business.
Thats not exactly true.
The idea of using less overlap is generally correct for street vehicles, but its not a boost issue like most seem to believe.
In general, milder style cams are recommended for boosted engines for the street because they make more low end power that can help cover for lag. Somehow, that got skewed into, among other things, a boost blowing through the motor and bleeding away issue which are totally false.
It is mostly true that a cam is a cam and there isn't any incredible difference for boosted vs. non-boosted.
But, there are some changes (like specifically split durations) that can be optimized for boosted vs. non-boosted engines. So alot of cam companies do list specific cams as being for boosted applications.
But none of that really matters here. For our J's, there just isn't any real variety of cam selections. There are only a couple of selections for any of the J engines and mostly they are exactly stock or only mildly increased from stock anyway.
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i love the cams theo nly PCM issues i have are with the usual PO300 random misfire and its ONLY in the winter everyonce in a great while when its very cold cause the engine idles rougher otherwise i run 90 octane and did a crank sensor relearn and have no CEl and no issues idles very nicely
The one, the only, ME.
04eco wrote:i love the cams theo nly PCM issues i have are with the usual PO300 random misfire and its ONLY in the winter everyonce in a great while when its very cold cause the engine idles rougher otherwise i run 90 octane and did a crank sensor relearn and have no CEl and no issues idles very nicely
Your cams suck...admit it.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Quote:
.Thats not exactly true.
The idea of using less overlap is generally correct for street vehicles, but its not a boost issue like most seem to believe.
In general, milder style cams are recommended for boosted engines for the street because they make more low end power that can help cover for lag.
Thanks for agreeing, most people want to fight me on that boost/overlap BS.
You just said what I said, though, only differently. Would that not be camming for your intended(low) RPM range?
'Turbo' cams are just a gimmick to sell more cams, like those 'nitrous' cams 20yrs ago.
I deff agree with what you are saying NOS. The reason I am even thinking about having cams made is due to the charger kits I am designing. A high boost M62 charger will need a good matched cam for peak power. Isnt that the point choosing the correct cam? You build a motor to a certain set of needs, the cam is one of the biggest compliments. The cams would not be goin in my personal car; I dont own a Jbody. I would like to make the max power out of Black's supercharger Z24 and be able to either provide the correct spec's or the accual cams for those wanting to make the most out of an M62.
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
Just decide what RPM range you want to run in, and choose your duration accordingly. Run as much lift as you can, and hold on
You will actually lose boost pressure because the motor is flowing so much more air. You'll end up making more power at less boost.
Its sad when somebody goes to all the trouble of installing a turbo, or s/c and leaves in the stock cams. Its like running a restrictor plate on your valves.
The whole idea is performance, isn't it?
NJHK (The JBO Negro) wrote:04eco wrote:i love the cams theo nly PCM issues i have are with the usual PO300 random misfire and its ONLY in the winter everyonce in a great while when its very cold cause the engine idles rougher otherwise i run 90 octane and did a crank sensor relearn and have no CEl and no issues idles very nicely
Your cams suck...admit it.
your just jealous you have the stage 1's
The one, the only, ME.
Your absolutely right. I am tryin to get it in peoples heads that unless you wanna go for some big power, dont bother with the M62. Hence why I recomend they all get the GM kit first. But it is a nice way for people to make a good amount of power without diving into the motor.
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
if any one has heard the drag cav or sunfires GM ran will know
the cams in those motors had a nice loppy idle , and they idled about 1500-2000
granted the motors would spin 10,000 or there about
ive heard alot of blower motors that have loppy idles also , and they run like rabid apes
my idea is using the HO cams , with the s/c
I have a feeling there is gonna be a few cam swaps at my cost for some tests lol
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
