Ive put this in the auto forum but it probably belongs more in here than anywhere else, Does anyone supply High Stall Torque Converters to you J Body guys and girls, and were can I find more info and feedback on them, I did a search but didnt pull up much,
Thanks
Ian
Ian@rezlo.com
I wouldn't buy the ones from ebay, they don't list any specs. I do not have an auto but my camaro did. Check out Yank, Edge a Precision Industrys. I had a PI Viglante converter in my camaro with a 3000 stall, 2.55 STR and 98.7% efficiency. That things was great but it also cost me $750 plus install.
2012 HD VRSCF
2010 Ford Explorer
2006 Ford Ranger
2004 Chevy Cavalier
I personally know Terry H and Mike S from PI and Yank respectively. PI does not build a converter for J's but Yank did. Still might be able to get one. I would have to look. I think there still is a pallet or so left.
I have seen some auctions on ebay that are kinda screwy, but mine are guaranteed to be what they say they are.
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Yea, ummmm. I used to have a J-body...
Since you didn't fill out your profile, I can't tell if you're an ECOTEC guy or not but there is alot of good general information in the ECOTEC sticky that goes for all 3rd gens. Here ya go:
Full ECOTEC Build Guide wrote:Torque Converters: Torque Converters for our cars have to be custom made. Updgrading your torque converter will allow you to apply more power to the wheels and allow you to rev higher with the higher stall speed. This is an extremely good upgrade if you plan to go high power with your Automatic transmission.
You can contact the following companies to have them custom make you one:
Yank Converters - www.converter.cc
Pro Torque - www.protorque.com
Here is a post that will supply you with more information on this subject:
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=41&i=19839&t=19839#19839
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
i personally will vouch for the Yank converter great stuff
The one, the only, ME.
04eco wrote:i personally will vouch for the Yank converter great stuff
You biased bastard lol
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
The reason I asked was that ive sold a few GM units over the last few weeks and one of my customers said I should post here that I build them as he didn’t know of anyone else till he purchased one of my units. I sell converters to over 50 clubs with thousands of sales to date,
I build fully furnace brazed units with custom re-enforced stators, custom fin angle pump drives, custom load bearings threw out, upgraded clutch’s ectr, units are then CNC welded then micro balanced, then go threw a pressure and vacuum test then are coated before being shipped.
Here is the link to the converter specs and pricing
HI STALL TORQUE CONVERTERS
I cant sell my units for what they are sold for on ebay as I as a manufacturer can even make them for that price, my price for the majority of GM’s is $360 shipped for a 2400rpm street converter, each unit is completed within 2 days of paypal payment and shipped only Via UPS.
Remember that when you have your transmission rebuilt they will always replace your converter, don’t let them charge you $200-400 for a stock rebuilt unit when you can upgrade for neer the same price to a far stronger and higher stall unit, near all private trans shops will not void a warrantee if is within 1000rpm of stock stall either.
Anything you require over 2400rpm or a custom unit is not a problem, just email me and ill get back to you as soon as possible with an exact price, the reason I quote on 2400rpm is because that is a perfect street stall with ZERO drivability issues and ZERO reliability issues, the units will act just like stock till you pass ½ throttle where you will then feel them stall up faster during pull aways, all the info on them can be found on the above link if you would like to know more.
If anyone here is interested or would like to know more, your welcome to email me ian@rezlo.com .
Ian
Not bad pricing, I'll keep ya in mind if anyone wants to build up an auto by me. It is amazing how much a stall "wakes" up your car. My 2002 z28 has a 3200 stall with a 2.7 str and the differance is night and day. I strongly reccomend a verter. For the J's you shouldnt need more then a 2400 stall, he is right on the money. Unless you have a set of stage 2 cams its not worth goin higher.
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
What tires do you use? I know my camaro wouldn't hook at all unless I used my nitto 555r's. I lost almost every race without them because I would just ignite the tires coming off the line.
2012 HD VRSCF
2010 Ford Explorer
2006 Ford Ranger
2004 Chevy Cavalier
Yeah 2400 is a perfect street stall especialy because it has no drivability issues,
We used BF's on our shop camaro with a 4000rpm stall running quite a bit of nitrous and it used to hook up pretty well if you modulated it with the throttle, biggest thing you got to get right is how much power you lay down off the line VS the quality of the asphalt and what temprature it is. Once you go threw one or two sets of tires you quikly learn how to make the most of a high stall on a higher HP RWD,
As far as the J's are concerned I dont think you would have much of a problem with traction with a 2400rpm, after 3000flash then you need to look into a LSD ectr. We installed a nitrous kit and a 2600rpm converter into a 2.4 J body a frew months ago, it was pretty damm quick of the line, used to give my chrysler cirrus a run for its money to 40-50mph and not to many fwd cars could do that,
http://www.rezlo.com/Pages/Toys/Silvia%20Cirrus/6g72%20new2.JPG
Sure you can work out why
Oh and remember, its always a good idea on any auto to add an inline oil cooler to your current cooler, Temp is the NO:1 killer of all auto's. You can find B&M trans oil coolers for $40-60 at neer all good parts stores.
worst comes to worst, get one built locally. most local shops will be able to redo a reg one...
thats the route i did, same as the yank and not nearly as much as yank originally charged....
mine is a 2800 stall, i did an entire write up in the transmission forum that can be searched up easy.
Fire Fighter wrote:What tires do you use? I know my camaro wouldn't hook at all unless I used my nitto 555r's. I lost almost every race without them because I would just ignite the tires coming off the line.
I use BF Goodrich KDWS's, I love them. I air them down to about 20 lbs and with a little heat in them I can get a good launch. Only thing that is gonna suck is when i do my cam I am gonna have to swap out for a lower STR. The 2.7 STR will be way to high for the cam I wanna run.
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
the KDW's are great tires, Nitto released a tire recently thats about on par but about 1/2 the price, I saw them track testing them while i was at the track one day, not sure what the model number or if they are available yet but definatly somthing to think of for those on a tight budget
One thing they never mention in the linked post in the Trans forum is the risk of overheating your transmission. Unlikely, but still something to remember.
Thats why you always use a trans cooler.
2012 HD VRSCF
2010 Ford Explorer
2006 Ford Ranger
2004 Chevy Cavalier
Fire Fighter wrote:Thats why you always use a trans cooler.
FACT....
even stock transmissions get higher than operating temp of 175-195 degrees. every 20 degrees over, halfs the life.
Rule of thumb, you install a converter you add a tranny cooler. If you can get a shift kit also, that would be mint.
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
2.4K?
Hmmm, isn't the factory Z around 2.2K?
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
regarding the tranny cooler not saying its a bad idea but with my Shiftplus and 2900 stall converter my tranny temps rarely get over 155 the highest ive seen was about 195
The one, the only, ME.
04eco wrote:regarding the tranny cooler not saying its a bad idea but with my Shiftplus and 2900 stall converter my tranny temps rarely get over 155 the highest ive seen was about 195
do you drive hard? and where did you mount the sensor? theres usually a port in the transmission thats more accurate than in the lines...
That temp doesnt sound right even with a cooler, you should actualy try and get your trans to run around 180-190, any cooler and its clearances will be to wide, any hoter and your ATF will start to break down causeing eventual trans faliure.
the medium size B&M cooler available at most autozones and pepboys will compensate for a 1000-1500rpm raize in flash stall.
And for those asking about stall, I measure in flash stall, if you dont know what that is go up to my link and read about it, that means a 2400rpm unit will act just like stock till you get to about 1/2 throttle where you will then feel it stall up alot quicker during pull aways, if you brake TQ a 2400rpm flash stall you will probably get it to 3000-3400 depending on the amount of TQ your engine builds.
For
most J's with the 2.2L/2200's the stock stall ratting is 2375rpm(I.D. code FZRB). I've seen the 2.4"s with as high as 2560 stall(FBFB), but most commonly the 2375 stall (FZFB) was used.
IMO, the 2560 stall TC's are good if you have a stock motor, maybe with bolt ons(intake, header,exhaust). If you've done more, such as internal work(P&P, Cams, etc..)the 2795 would be a good choice. Remeber this can vary from vehicle to vehicle, by weight, horsepower and torque.
If you want a good rebuilt TC get a 2560 or 2795 stall TC,that's rebuilt as Rezlo described above.
Rezlo, I'm sure your TCs are good, but 2400 is so close to the stock stall speed, it wouldn't be much different, except for being well built. As the power band moves up (in rpm,hp & tq), so must the stall speed.
Not trying to play favorites here, so I won't metion his name, but I'm getting a better deal through another JBO member who works at another top performance TC (re)bulider. Your prices aren't bad though!
lol 
