Ive done a search came up with nothing, Ive found a set of these cams and gotta couple questions that Im sure the org can help me with. First off my car is an auto will these cams affect it in any way (thats probably a stupid question but Im not very familiar with cam upgrades at the moment) and How aggresive of a cam is a stage 2? Any help is greatly appreciated!
well to the best of my knowledge they are roughly the same grind as the JBP stage 2's and i have them in my auto Eco and love themyes you'll get a CEL cause of the lope but my suggestion to get rid of it, and has worked for me, is to run 90 octane all the time and you shouldnt ever see the code. and really the only time the code will set is if you let it idle alot and for awhile or do alot of slow city driving.
The one, the only, ME.
eh, rob doesn't know much about cams either, but if you want to know how aggressive a cam profile is, id post the specs on them (lift, duration, etc). stage II isnt as descriptive.... what i do know is that if that cam had a lope at idle, it would be more severe, as autos idle at lower speeds than manuals. if the cam was too aggressive, it could even stall (which i doubt on a set of mass produced cams.)
Thier supposed to give a good gain IF YOU CAN GET THEM TO WORK RIGHT!!!
I was one of the first people to get them from a Group Purchase a while aso and I couldn't get any performance gains out of them. But I didn't have to right equipment to time them right so I was basically guessing. But it seemed like almost everyone else had problems with them too.
I'm not saying don't buy them. I am just saying be careful and letting you know that people have had problems with them before... Hell, I still have mine sitting in the basement, but I am scared to try to put them back in because I don't want to screw anything up. I am even building a higher comp. N/A Ecotec engine and I think I am just going to use the stock cams!!!
If anything you might want to raise the idle of your auto so it doesn't stall/shake to death. like Rob said.
Either way...Good luck!
2004 Cavalier
13.2@105........
Mods...
BFG Drag Radials
Saab Turbo kit
2.5 exhaust, w/cutout
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch
Mine run fine...i've had only three codes in over a year and they are usually caused by a change in weather (from warm to cold over night) but also clears itself after a day of driving. Mine were installed by a GM tech and properly timed and i've found good gains with them. Car pulls hard up until redline. I'm happy with them, but other ppl have other opinions about them
I'm also kinda new to the cam mods, so this may sound like a stupid question, is it the fuel/air ratio or the timing that sends out the CEL? I want to get some cams but I don't know whether or not to get the Stage 1 or Stage 2 cams.
Oh and sorry to jack the thread....
if u get a port and polished head they prolly could work nice but i had two codes throw..running rich and multiple cylinder misfire. stalled out all the time but the rich code went away gradually after i got my exhaust done. the CEL starting poping up less and less. i should have kept mine bc now i'm getting a p&p head and it would been nice to have both.
MY 2003 SUNFIRE 15.6@86mph
"A N/A ecotec is not gonna give Honda's and Mitsu's that much of a run for their
money unless their blown or bottle fed.GM is still smokin crack!"
~1QWKZ24
www.streetracing.org, 08/2001
like i said i havent had any problems with that profile of cam yet, it has only stalled a couple times on me but otherwise never ran rich no codes just a good gain. to be exact my a/f at WOT is 12.3:1 and i have no knock retard ever no matter how i drive it. and something else i tried was did a crank sensor relearn on it and 2 days now with no issues nothing, and i can let it idle all day without a code. so id say get the cams run 90 octane in it, get a crank sensor relearn done on it and you'll be good with no issues
The one, the only, ME.
Alex wrote:I'm also kinda new to the cam mods, so this may sound like a stupid question, is it the fuel/air ratio or the timing that sends out the CEL? I want to get some cams but I don't know whether or not to get the Stage 1 or Stage 2 cams.
Oh and sorry to jack the thread....
The codes that were being thrown were "Too Rich" codes and one other code that doesn't come to mind right now.
If you don't want to run into any code issues and still have good gains, go with the JBP Stage 1s. I personally have them and they are very nice, kicks in right at 3000 RPMs.
Rick, also you have to answer yourself some questions before purchasing this...where do you want your powerband to be? Do you want to deal with any CEL issues? Do you plan on going turbo/supercharged one day? If you don't want CEL issues and you do plan on boosting, don't buy these cams. With these cams I don't think they would be good necessarily for an Auto and a car not as modified. You powerband will be shifted upwards and with an auto you can't control how high you rev and when you shift. With it being high, you are more likely to not get the full potential of the camshafts. I would say stick with the stage 1s.
Quote:
Thier supposed to give a good gain IF YOU CAN GET THEM TO WORK RIGHT!!!
Basically...
That was another issue with these cams. They gauranteed 13 whp but people were sometimes losing power or noticed little gains from these camshaft upgrades. I wouldn't buy them...too much bad history and it just doesn't seem worth it. Go with the JBP Stage 1 cams.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
^^^ JBP Stage 1's were my first choice.
not to jack this thread but what would be my best bet if i plan on turobocharging later.........later...........later........... down the line. JBP stage 1?
~Riki
SPONSORED BY: No one!
Car Domain Site
the difference between the stage 1 and stage 2 is the grind the stage 1's are less duration and more lift and the stage 2's are the opposite more duration and less lift and the more duration creates lope which is what throws the PO300 random misfire code that comes with the stage 2's unless you know how to correct that which i have, as i keep mentioning
lol and as NJHK it does raise the powerband with the stage 2's and without other supporting mods you lose bottom end and cant make it up so easy on the top (in the 1/4)
The one, the only, ME.
Riki Knight wrote:not to jack this thread but what would be my best bet if i plan on turobocharging later.........later...........later........... down the line. JBP stage 1?
Honestly...stock camshafts would be best instead of going torwards either stage 1 or 2 camshafts. Stage 1 or 2 camshafts are more geared for naturally aspirated vehicles. Naturally Aspirated vehicles use valve overlap to gain power...with forced induction, the more valve overlap, the more it will hurt your performance (to a degree).
So if you're going to boost your car in the future, say within a year, I say do all the other bolt on modifications to prepare for boost (like a bigger throttle body for example, maybe 2 1/2" exhaust system) so you can still gain some power in the meantime.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Alex wrote:^^^ JBP Stage 1's were my first choice.
Good Idea.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
I Also have a auto 02 Cav and bought a head and plan on getting it ported and was going to do a set of cams at the same time. I dont plan on boosting because i was told the trans wont hold. Would a stage 1 Cam with ported head be the best then for a daily driver?
Kyle Maas wrote:I Also have a auto 02 Cav and bought a head and plan on getting it ported and was going to do a set of cams at the same time. I dont plan on boosting because i was told the trans wont hold. Would a stage 1 Cam with ported head be the best then for a daily driver?
First, whoever told you that the 4T40E transmissions CAN'T handle power is full of it or ignorant. They can and it has been proven to hold a damn good amount of power. I also have an automatic and in January I should be turbo'd and I will prove that point.
As far as if a ported head and stage 1 cams would be good for daily driving, I currently have a ported head (Patriot Performance Stage 2 Head) and JBP Stage 1 camshafts, no problems whatsoever and good amounts of top end (mostly cause of the head). One thing I would suggest is investing in an SAFC-2 and getting your A/F ratio checked either with an wideband or go through a dyno tuning shop that will tune it for you.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
I keep hearing everyone say that the LZM cams move the powerband up, but when they were dynoed (if it was even legit) they made that extra 15hp at 200 RPM's SOONER than the stock cams. And max torque came earlier too( about 400RPM's sooner.)
So I thought... in a way you would be shifting the powerband down a tad if any... I thought they made more power down low, hence why in my opinion...if he can get these to work good... then it would benifit the auto trans.
Can anyone confirm this?
2004 Cavalier
13.2@105........
Mods...
BFG Drag Radials
Saab Turbo kit
2.5 exhaust, w/cutout
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch
NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:Riki Knight wrote:not to jack this thread but what would be my best bet if i plan on turobocharging later.........later...........later........... down the line. JBP stage 1?
Honestly...stock camshafts would be best instead of going torwards either stage 1 or 2 camshafts. Stage 1 or 2 camshafts are more geared for naturally aspirated vehicles. Naturally Aspirated vehicles use valve overlap to gain power...with forced induction, the more valve overlap, the more it will hurt your performance (to a degree).
So if you're going to boost your car in the future, say within a year, I say do all the other bolt on modifications to prepare for boost (like a bigger throttle body for example, maybe 2 1/2" exhaust system) so you can still gain some power in the meantime.
Thats pretty much 100% bull@!#$.
You should not post garbage like that when you really have no idea what you are talking about.
Performance cams in a turbo setup will not only work well, but work even better than in a non-turbo application. Especially the super mild cams he is asking about.
If you disagree with me, then tell me which cams you've used in which motors, what your results were, and why.
I will be happy to explain to you how, what, and why it will work the way I've said.
I have ALOT of experience with this.
I bet you have none.
That overlap/boost bullshat is an old wives tale.
NOSfly wrote:NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:Riki Knight wrote:not to jack this thread but what would be my best bet if i plan on turobocharging later.........later...........later........... down the line. JBP stage 1?
Honestly...stock camshafts would be best instead of going torwards either stage 1 or 2 camshafts. Stage 1 or 2 camshafts are more geared for naturally aspirated vehicles. Naturally Aspirated vehicles use valve overlap to gain power...with forced induction, the more valve overlap, the more it will hurt your performance (to a degree).
So if you're going to boost your car in the future, say within a year, I say do all the other bolt on modifications to prepare for boost (like a bigger throttle body for example, maybe 2 1/2" exhaust system) so you can still gain some power in the meantime.
Thats pretty much 100% bull@!#$.
You should not post garbage like that when you really have no idea what you are talking about.
Performance cams in a turbo setup will not only work well, but work even better than in a non-turbo application. Especially the super mild cams he is asking about.
If you disagree with me, then tell me which cams you've used in which motors, what your results were, and why.
I will be happy to explain to you how, what, and why it will work the way I've said.
I have ALOT of experience with this.
I bet you have none.
That overlap/boost bullshat is an old wives tale.
I knew you were going to say that. I've read EVERY post that has to deal with turbos and camshafts and I find it funny that you are the only person that ever says that and you always get into some big argument over who is right and wrong.
No matter what I tell you or show you to try and prove myself right, it won't make any difference cause you believe what you want and I believe what I want.
I've already read your previous posts in other threads and I know you're whole argument bla bla bla so I really don't need another big discussion over this. If you want to tell this person what you think, fine, go ahead and I'll tell them what I think.
That is all...
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
NOSfly wrote:NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:Riki Knight wrote:not to jack this thread but what would be my best bet if i plan on turobocharging later.........later...........later........... down the line. JBP stage 1?
Honestly...stock camshafts would be best instead of going torwards either stage 1 or 2 camshafts. Stage 1 or 2 camshafts are more geared for naturally aspirated vehicles. Naturally Aspirated vehicles use valve overlap to gain power...with forced induction, the more valve overlap, the more it will hurt your performance (to a degree).
So if you're going to boost your car in the future, say within a year, I say do all the other bolt on modifications to prepare for boost (like a bigger throttle body for example, maybe 2 1/2" exhaust system) so you can still gain some power in the meantime.
Thats pretty much 100% bull@!#$.
You should not post garbage like that when you really have no idea what you are talking about.
Performance cams in a turbo setup will not only work well, but work even better than in a non-turbo application. Especially the super mild cams he is asking about.
If you disagree with me, then tell me which cams you've used in which motors, what your results were, and why.
I will be happy to explain to you how, what, and why it will work the way I've said.
I have ALOT of experience with this.
I bet you have none.
That overlap/boost bullshat is an old wives tale.
You have a horrible attitude for being wrong most of the time. You come off like you know what you are talking about, and you do not. Adam (NJHK) is correct.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Crane Cams also makes a number of grinds and some claim to be boost specific but I dont know that anyone has had them or what gains were made
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Rodimus Prime wrote:Crane Cams also makes a number of grinds and some claim to be boost specific but I dont know that anyone has had them or what gains were made
Crane will also do custom grinds as well.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Thanks for the info but I will take Adams advice on this subject. No disrespect to you NOSfly but from what ive seen and done Adams advice has never failed me. I still might get the cams just to try them and have them in the mean time before i boost my car. Maybe I'll dyno the stock ones and the JBP ones when i do go to boost.
~Riki
SPONSORED BY: No one!
Car Domain Site
