Got'r done today. For the fittings I had a 1/4"NPT male to female 45* elbow, 1/4"NPT Male to Male hex nipple, and a 1//4"NPT female/female/female 'T' fitting. Didn't think too much oil would come out, boy was I wrong. she bled like a mofo, and a perverbial flood ensued. either let your car settle down and drain, or tilt it to the drivers side to avoid the fiasco I had. Took a bit of trial and error to get the brass pieces lined up and angled how they needed to be. Just did one by one, when I got one piece where I wanted it, I would hold it in place with a wrench and tighten the next piece. The 45* elbow is tightened almost all the way in. You can see maybe 1mm of thread. I used a channel lock wrench to grab and twist the elbow, as the piece kept on twisting in weird directions. The position the elbow is in seemed best to allow other pieces to be added on, and to have the original oil sensor in place, without having to cut/splice wires. I held the elbow in place, and tightened the 1/4" male/male hex nipple. I held the hex nipple in place, and fastened the 'T' fitting into place, paying close attention to the angles of the outlets. I inserted the factory oil sensor on the bottom, and installed my oil pressure sending unit coming out the side. I used quite a bit of Teflon Tape on the threads, everything went as tight as I could get it, while staying in the right position, and no leaks yet. the oil pressure sender needed to be grounded as well, so after each piece I tested with a multimeter (touch the cam tower house and last brass piece) to make sure there wasn't any resistance. But I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking...hopefully this can be used for a reference for many people to come...

Nice info...great post



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

Nice pictures man, thanks for these. I have the same exact setup on my 2.2 engine. Ill be using these pictures when I put my 2.4 motor in..









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

do u get any crazy readings on a cold start? i think i have a bad reading or something, when its cold, its goin at like 60 at idle and then when i hit it, it hits 90, then when its warm, it works perfect


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thats the same way mine is. someone had posted because the oil is cold, and more dense, it reads a higher pressure. should settle down to between 25-40 once warm, but you will see it go up 10-15 when you're on the gas

thats a damn good idea to have the stock sensor unit still attached, i just cut mine off...lol






Portage, MI

yeah ive heard cuz its cold u get weird readings, when its warm its perfect,

i dont have my stock on there either, stupid thing didnt fit, need a diff extension, waiting till next year, its off the road on nov 5 anyways


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that is how I had mine in the Z very easy install




Yes it is a cavalier deal with it

Yeah, with my Autometer guage I get high pressure when the oil is cold (normal) but when I get the motor to full operating temp and the fan starts to run (with factory guage at about 3/4 way up) I get rather LOW oil pressure like 5-7psi on the oil guage but never does the actual dummy light come on in the dash?! Weird.

Anyone else get this phenomenon?

I thought it was my first Autometer oil guage (electrical) but my brand new Autometer(electrical) guage is doing the same thing.

...NOW, I do have an oil cooler (Cool-Tec) installed and was wondering if this could cause low oil pressure reading when the oil is hot?




J

all you need is a turbo feed tee'd into that and you'll be good to go

now if someone could do this for the ecotec then we will be all ready to go...

Z Styling wrote:Yeah, with my Autometer guage I get high pressure when the oil is cold (normal) but when I get the motor to full operating temp and the fan starts to run (with factory guage at about 3/4 way up) I get rather LOW oil pressure like 5-7psi on the oil guage but never does the actual dummy light come on in the dash?! Weird.

Anyone else get this phenomenon?

I thought it was my first Autometer oil guage (electrical) but my brand new Autometer(electrical) guage is doing the same thing.

...NOW, I do have an oil cooler (Cool-Tec) installed and was wondering if this could cause low oil pressure reading when the oil is hot?

ive heard that at 6 psi the oil pressure lite should come on, if that gauge is rite, id get that checked out, i still dont trust my gauge

when its cold and i hit the gas the gauge maxes out to 100? theres no way my car hits 100 psi of oil pressure!!!

i actually think the light comes on a 3 psi but not positive. We were learning about it in class 2day.


Thanx Charles

WARNING!!! I MADE THIS THREAD A COUPLE MONTHS BACK AND IMMEDIATELY ADVISE YOU NOT TO CONSIDER INSTALLING YOUR OIL PRESSURE SENSOR THIS WAY!!! THIS IS MY DISCLAIMER!!!

alright, two days ago I was driving to work, go around a corner, and all the sudden my oil pressure drops to '0' on the gauge, and I see the oil light flicker on the cluster. Pull into a gas station, pop the hood and there is oil everywhere. Pull the dipstick, and she's dry. Get the car towed home, have a look at it the next day. Oil on the header, all over the engine/tranny/head/sparkplug wells/IDI cover, they're all soaked in oil.

I take off the IDI cover, and soak up all the oil. I go to start dis-assembling, and notice the brass fittings/sending unit seem a little loose. So I figure, alright, its loose, thats why oil leaked...wrong...as i was undoing the fittings this happened:





Look back at the original pictures, and you'll see how it was mounted. At the time it was extremely secure. But I guess after months of bouncing around (the sending unit is not light, but not super heavy either) it finally started to stress the brass fitting. Used a screw extractor to get the brass threaded piece out of the cam tower, put the stock sender back into the cam tower and filled her up with oil.

I left the IDI cover off, and pulled the injector harnesses off, and let it crank for about 10 seconds, just to make sure everything got a fresh taste of oil once again (had to get a new engine last year due to a spun rod bearing, deja-vu).

She runs great now. We're going to mount the sending unit remotely, and use the oil plug below the waterpump for our reading, and use a braided line to run to the sending unit. I'll take pics of how the final install went, so if people do still refer to this thread, they'll have a better idea on how to install their gauge without any mishaps...

GOULET

wow that sucks man


you might want to look into the newer auto meter gauges they have a smaller pressure sensor


when my 97 had a set up like yours , i was using a lead pipe for the extension then the brass T

and if the room is down by the water pump , id just put the sender right into the block , i wouldnt remote mount it

what kind of problems did you run into using a led pipe?

we're remote mounting it in hopes that something like this wont happen again.

The remote mount is definately 'undoable' so if we find a similar problem we'll be sure to post again.

Its funny how brittle the brass gets over time.

i didnt have any problem with the lead pipe


i moved the oil pressure when i went with the turbo , and installed the new motor

The only issue with a remote sensor mount is that if the sensor isn't mounted in a "flow" portion of the system, you can get erratic readings due to air in the line.

So you'll have a braided line going from the engine to a tee or distribution block with the sensor mounted in it. That line and the block will be full of air at startup, and oil in the engine will push to pressurize that air.

Eventually all that air will be displaced by oil, but until then your pressure readings will be erratic at best because of the different compression characteristics of air and oil. The other unintended side effect is that as the air is displaced from that line, it's actually getting displaced INTO the engine...so you'll have little spurts of no oil in the motor. Not good. Even once the oil gets into the line, it will only drain back out once the motor stops. Lather, rinse, repeat.

The best way to do it is to leave the stock sensor in the stock location, and mount the other sensor to the back of the block where you intend to tap the remote line. It might not look as neat at a braided hose and all, but it solves a whole lot of problems all at once.






09:f9:11:02:9d:74:e3:5b:d8:41:56:c5:63

Yes, an Ecotec please!




New Picture comming this summer.

Megaman wrote:Yes, an Ecotec please!

x2

SLO CAV (the slo one) wrote:now if someone could do this for the ecotec then we will be all ready to go...

Ill do a write up on the ecotec for sure when i get some of my pics and more time. And this includes not using the autometer fiiting. I think they charge 8 bucks when u can go to carquest or lee and buy a dran plug about 15mm long with a thread of 12x1.75 i think the that is what i used but ill check monday. The plugs in the side of the head right below the metal fuel lines. This drain plugs must be drilled straight through then the head is drilled to a larger size and tapped. Its really easy just have to be innovative. It took me maybe 20 minutes to make the piece and install it. Anyone with mechanical tools and a tap and die set can do this. oh and prolly a drill will help . The only problem i see with this is that the head is the last place to see oil if you take the reading from a galley plug in the back of the motor or in the front under the intake manifold readings will be a tad higher and a lot faster changing when the motor revs just something that i have noticed. The heads oil pressure just seems to get there slower or the reaction time is slower. This install is also great for turbo apps cause all you need to do for oil is put a t in and your ready to go. So one of these nights after i get some pictures probably monday but we will see.


*2012 mazdaspeed3*

Picture of an ECOTEC install.



I belive summit and jegs both have the adapter availible to order now. It is 12 x 1.75 male to 1/8 npt male.

You need a T40 torx bit to remove the plug in the oil passage. There is some grey material used to seal this passage that is left over be sure to clean it all from the threads.

The pipe clamp is the type you would use to mount a pipe to a wall in your home availible at most hardware stores.

You would also need the steel braided line tubing kit to complete this install. It has the 1/8 npt male to male fitting included.

Also the gauge isn't malfunctioning when it reads a higher oil pressure in the cold. It is working just fine.

Oil like most things is just more resistant to movement at a lower temperature.

Also the "idiot" light in the eco wont come one until there is less than 4 psi of pressure down by the oil pan where the sensor is.











||Click to visit my Cardomain page|Omaha Racing|Nebraska Region SCCA||

Thanks for the post. One more question, this might sound stupid....
There are two plugs with the torx plug, does it matter which one you take off?





New Picture comming this summer.

Either one will work but I think the one closer to the firewall is easier to get at.

Also I didnt use thread sealer or teflon tape on the fittings. Not a drop of oil leaked in almost two years.

You just have to snug the threads up not king kong tighten them. Things will break if you try this ask polo.

Also if you do use a sealer I would recommend a liquid type as opposed to teflon tape.

Run the sender wires through the firewall by poking a hole in the gromet around the place where the main harness goes through with a screwdriver then running the wires through that hole.

Also solder the connections for your gauges even if you use the crimp on style connectors.

I think that should cover it.









||Click to visit my Cardomain page|Omaha Racing|Nebraska Region SCCA||

Here's the final resting place of my oil sender. I used the oil plug just below the waterpump, and ran braided line to the sender. Thanks to stevefire for his help on this. Its a quick-fix for now, I'll mount it better sometime in the future...