so if its a 1/4", then if I had a 1/4" to 1/4" male nipple, a 1/4" T, and a 1/8" to 1/4" reducer, should it not be able to work?the nipple would go into the cam housing, the 'T' would fit onto the nipple, the stock oil pressure would go into one end of the 'T', and the aftermarket sender would go on the top of the T?

so whats better, mechanical or electrical???

Figure I'd post this here as well, might make it easier for ppl to find...

Got'r done today. For the fittings I had a 1/4"NPT male to female 45* elbow, 1/4"NPT Male to Male hex nipple, and a 1//4"NPT female/female/female 'T' fitting. Didn't think too much oil would come out, boy was I wrong. she bled like a mofo, and a perverbial flood ensued. either let your car settle down and drain, or tilt it to the drivers side to avoid the fiasco I had. Took a bit of trial and error to get the brass pieces lined up and angled how they needed to be. Just did one by one, when I got one piece where I wanted it, I would hold it in place with a wrench and tighten the next piece. The 45* elbow is tightened almost all the way in. You can see maybe 1mm of thread. I used a channel lock wrench to grab and twist the elbow, as the piece kept on twisting in weird directions. The position the elbow is in seemed best to allow other pieces to be added on, and to have the original oil sensor in place, without having to cut/splice wires. I held the elbow in place, and tightened the 1/4" male/male hex nipple. I held the hex nipple in place, and fastened the 'T' fitting into place, paying close attention to the angles of the outlets. I inserted the factory oil sensor on the bottom, and installed my oil pressure sending unit coming out the side. I used quite a bit of Teflon Tape on the threads, everything went as tight as I could get it, while staying in the right position, and no leaks yet. the oil pressure sender needed to be grounded as well, so after each piece I tested with a multimeter (touch the cam tower house and last brass piece) to make sure there wasn't any resistance. But I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking...hopefully this can be used for a reference for many people to come...

Can anyone tell me what parts I would need in order to make a tee coming out of the stock oil pressure sensor hole that would hold a 1/8th" male thread and 1/8th" female thread? I am looking to hook up my oil feed line and oil pressure sending unit and this is really holding me up. I have no desire to keep the stock sensor. Maybe wild weasel can help since he did it?



z24 aint afraid of no ecotec

just do exactly what I did, and get one 1/4" male to 1/8"female hex nipple, as well as a 1/4" male to 1/8" male hex nipple and you'll be doin really good...

the above ended up braking.....didn't it...?

l just got mine and want to do it right....

yes it did end up breaking it. Oil pressure sender was a little too heavy, and I assume the up/down bouncing caused it to snap.

Mines fine and its been there like that for more than 6 months... But mine is not quite aslong or big as Mr. Dirtbags is.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Yeah just don't make it as long.. If you decide to make it that long, make a braket that holds the sender in place so it doesnt bounce..











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

^^^I dont have the sender....?

But it looks like l have the same gauge as Dirtbag....?

^^ Yeah, im talkin about the big bulky gold looking thing.. If you have that then your good to go












~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

If you have a mechanical gauge, like I do, then you won't have a sender. I've got a similar brass T fitting there with the stock sender on one side and the pressure tube attached coming straight up the top.

Did you stop the leak and did you use the materials list above.....

Wild if you dont mind listing what you used being that l believe are similar in gauges....

Just posting in here to make sure I'm ready to go here.

-I have the QUAD4 so I'll have to use a T fitting to keep the stock sender.
-The fitting needs to be 1/4" NPT
-I need teflon tape to keep it from leaking.

Anything else? I'm not going braided, so I can't do it by the waterpump.

if i go braided line i would love to put it down by the water pump. secondly i dont want three things coming out of the cam towers.
i really wanted to put by turbo feed line there, between the cams towers?
is this a good spot?
how much pressure does a turbo need?
and do you need any special oil for the turbo?

Back from the dead huh?

Question, is this nylon hose long enough to run back into the gauge in the cabin? Also, is there a chance of oil leaking from the gauge or how does the reading work? I never actually seen a Mechanical gauge in person.



Ill be pulling my motor out this October for the 2.3 pump conversion and I want to install this gauge to get a reading from the block.. I'll also be using the electrical gauge on my cam tower to monitor my turbo oil feed psi.. I'd just feel comfortable monitoring both spots.

Thanks.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Yes there is a possibility for a mechanical gauge to leak into the car. Thats why I have an electrical one. I have thought of running two gauges to see what the difference is between the cam towers and the block. David....can't you get another gauge if you think yours is off, to check to see if it is off or not.




PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

Don't use the nylon hose. Jegs has a 1/8" copper line install kit PN 555-41055 $9.99 + shipping. The nylon will eventually get brittle and break (never a good thing and always at the wrong time). It's 6' long and will reach into the cabin.







Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, August 08, 2007 8:37 AM


"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"

Yes the nylon will reach. Yes it could leak. I had one and neverhad a problem. I have also use the copper line, but had more problems with it than nylon.



FU Tuning

Mike, I will be doing that here soon because im switching over ALL my gauges to black face.. So ill test it then with my new gauge..

Thanks Gary and John for the info... Also, does the copper line need to be wrapped in heat wrap since it will be back there with all my turbo stuff? Or, should it be fine..? Thats why im kind of scared to use the nylon back there with all the heat.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

David you can just borrow my elec gauge and see if your getting the same reading so you don't have the chance of it leaking in your car



2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |

I have been running a nylon line for 6 years without a problem. I did however, put in a new one this spring as preventative maintenance.




Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA

Good info and updated my data on the install.
Thanks all and keeping track of the thread.


Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!

What should the pressure read at idle? That would be nice to know when seeing of the gauge is working proberly.

Another thing....The stock idiot light is 100% useless. If you where to drain all the oil out of your car and go fo a drive, the light will NOT come on until about 2 seconds before the engine locks up. I know this from experiance and now that I'm on my second engine, I'm putting an electrical oil pressure gauge in my car as soon as possible and tossing the stock sending swith. BTW i'm not the one that drove my car without oil in it, wich is why I didn't have to pay for the new engine, but I was there and I know the idiot light is useless and thought everyone should know not to rely on it at all.