i did a search but found nothing. i followed the directions in getting the lower mount from teamforward motion, but the 2 15mm bolts are so f^cking hard to get off. i sprayed some lube to see if it'll loosen but still can't. jacked up the engine a bit to see if the tension would ease, nope. the other worse thing is i dont have enough leverage to use one hand not to mention 2 hands. anybody have any tips for getting the 2 bolts out? im really am getting aggrevated over this ordeal. thanks in advance.
*Devil Z*
um..i hope your turning the right side..make sure your turning the bolt head and not th welded nut on the bottom end...that said..it should be fairly easy..i also hope your not trying this with a small wrench...use something nice and long...longer the better
...may even want to try putting a small pipe over the end of the wrench to get more torque and make it much easier...but it should come off..if it still doesnt....CUTTING TORCH hehe j/k
"Freedom 'ought to have its limits"-George W. Bush may 31 1999 (who voted for this idiot?)
I used a regular socket with a pipe at the end for leverage. took my dad's help but we got it off.
good to hear...hope the new one went in good...no bolt can stand up to the power of a pipe!!
"Freedom 'ought to have its limits"-George W. Bush may 31 1999 (who voted for this idiot?)
Try using a breaker bar. Also, it helps if you jack the front end of the car up and remove the passenger side front tire(this should give you more than enough room for two hands).
I always thought the upper one was the hardest to do
It just takes some muscle young grasshopper. Once you get the bolts out, have fun getting them out around the black plastic wheel well liners. Thats the next thing to over come. Part of them will interfere.... but you'll soon see what i mean. Its just take some patience and manipulation.
i cheated and used air tools :-) took all of 15 seconds for both bolts to come out :-) i know i know you hate me. lol
When I do mine, ill use a bay, as i work at Jiffy Lube, and lower bay's are so nice when it comes to checking things out under a car, shouldnt be too hard IMO. If ive read right, the motor doesnt need to be supported when the lower is removed?
as the others have said, just use a piece of pipe or a breaker bar... works like a charm when you have some length for leverage.
air tools are your friend.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
i did take the plastic wheel well liner and the passenger tire off. it just sucks. i think my friend has an air tool but i gotta see if its true that he has one.
*Devil Z*
Used a breaker bar, and a few extentions, and was able to get a grip on the bar by standing up. That was my little genious move.
02 Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon
sh!t, screw the breaker arm, i went over to my friend who has an air tool, unscrewed that b!itch off with np. air tools are one's friends
*Devil Z*
It just takes some muscle. I didn't even take the wheel off or the plastic wall, just did what spiderman did, trim a little section off. The hardest part was getting the new one to line up so the bolt can go back in.
man i had so much fun with this... i put my car up on jack stands and used a hydraulic jack to rotate he wrench and break it loose. jst set the wrench so its at a bit of an angle then jack the jack up to it and keep goin itll break loose like nothin.
Had no trouble putting mine on.
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Do you know how fast you were going son? No sir, my speedometer only goes to 110.
I used to take mine out in the winter too. Frozen vibrating plastic makes noises.
i never thought a thread could get so big for something so simple
Zach wrote:Try using a breaker bar. Also, it helps if you jack the front end of the car up and remove the passenger side front tire(this should give you more than enough room for two hands).
I always thought the upper one was the hardest to do
eehh I'll make it longer hehehe
I agree the top one was a pain the bottom was cake, as for the splash shield, I just cut a hole large enough to put a socket through
and i was glad I did when I went back to put in my front sub-frame brace, it was ready to go, 1..2..3...nice as you please.
Fatalic CAVI wrote:Spiderman wrote:I switch my lower mount every fall and spring (run my stock one in the winter). It always just takes me 15 minutes or so. Jack the passenger side of the car, take the wheel off..use a regular socket and rachet with a short pipe. For the plastic wheel guard, I just trimmed the one section that interfered with a bolt...so I never have to take it out.
Why?
I'm assuming you're asking why I swap it out for the winter months.
As someone else stated...frozen plastic parts make noise. Not only that...the mount's bushings are hard enough as it is...you can imagine that they get even harder in colder temperatures...increasing the vibrations throughout the car.
While winter driving, I don't need my extra added (or restored) torque. So why not make the ride a little more comfortable? I also turn my CAI into a WAI to save my K&N from all the slush and road grime. And I also take out my autotrans interceptor since traction control is a nice thing to have in the winter, lol. And then I spray Rust Check in every nook and cranny.
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'01 Cavalier~2200SFI~4-Speed Automatic -
17.501sec @ 76.864mph (1/4)
