I really thought about doing the JBP stage 2 cams next, but after reading the post about autos loosing power, I'm kind of skeptical. I'm driving a 2000 auto Sunfire and so far my mods consist of an intake, header, full exhaust, pulleys, mounts, and a shift-kit. I thought about doing a full fuel/ignition (fuel pump/filter/rail/regulator/injectors[if I needed them]/DIS-2/coil packs/plugs) upgrade. I've even thought about a 55 shot, but my engine has 118k on it. Any suggestion? Any feedback is appreciated.
Larry wrote:Next time some dork revs his engine, just sit there smile, and when the light turns green blow his F#@*IN doors off. He will leave you alone after that.
Dr Mengele wrote:I really thought about doing the JBP stage 2 cams next, but after reading the post about autos loosing power, I'm kind of skeptical.
I know what post you're talking about and I had resonded to what that person said...
Your camshafts have no relation to your transmission. Remember, your transmission transfers the power from your motor to your wheel(s). Manual transmissions stock don't lose as much power as automatics do but there is no type of relationship between your camshafts and your transmission regardless of what type of transmission you have.
If you do lose power, it is more than likely because of computer, most cases it tends to run rich. Once again, not a transmission issue.
Dr Mengele wrote:I've even thought about a 55 shot, but my engine has 118k on it.
With a high mileage car, I wouldn't really risk it...if you still want to, do a low shot or a 55 shot not too often. Nitrous causes alot of wear & tear to your bottom end.
Just another side note, changing your camshafts will decide what your future of your motor is. Stage 2 camshafts are considered all motor camshafts because they have a high lift and long duration which isn't good when it comes to Forced Induction because of Valve Overlap. All motor vehicles use Valve Overlap to it's benefit to gain power.
If you decide to go F/I, you should either go back to stock or have specially made F/I camshafts made.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Well, im pretty much restricted to all motor right now because i cant afford any FI. So Im assuming the cams would be my best bet right now for making power without having to dig into my internals. Again, thanks alot.
"Why drive a blue oval when you can drive a red arrowhead?"
Dr Mengele wrote:Well, im pretty much restricted to all motor right now because i cant afford any FI. So Im assuming the cams would be my best bet right now for making power without having to dig into my internals. Again, thanks alot.
Yeah, without doing bottom end work, best thing to do is get some nice camshafts and rebuild that cylinder head.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Do you think that the cylinder head that JBP sells is worth the money? I'd love to do the cams and head at the same time.
"Why drive a blue oval when you can drive a red arrowhead?"
Dr Mengele wrote:Do you think that the cylinder head that JBP sells is worth the money? I'd love to do the cams and head at the same time.
Do you have a link?
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Right here.
"Why drive a blue oval when you can drive a red arrowhead?"
Dr Mengele wrote:Right here.
By the looks of it, that kit comes with Pistons as well...I say go for it but you realize that with about $500 more dollars you could have a turbo kit or a supercharger
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Quote:
Your camshafts have no relation to your transmission.
Um, actually Adam, you'll probably be surprised to learn that cams are related to an automatic transmission. Your torque converter has a set stall speed, which determines how high you can rev the engine while powerbraking, as well as how high it will ultimately shift (outside of computer programming). The old muscle car guys always had to be careful to match their cam to their torque converter, since the cam determines the powerband and the converter determines how well the trans can stay in it. To be honest this is an area thats a littlle fuzzy for me, its not an area I've really researched thoroughly (since i don't have an auto and it doesn't make much difference to me) but its something you might want to dig into.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:Quote:
Your camshafts have no relation to your transmission.
Um, actually Adam, you'll probably be surprised to learn that cams are related to an automatic transmission. Your torque converter has a set stall speed, which determines how high you can rev the engine while powerbraking, as well as how high it will ultimately shift (outside of computer programming). The old muscle car guys always had to be careful to match their cam to their torque converter, since the cam determines the powerband and the converter determines how well the trans can stay in it. To be honest this is an area thats a littlle fuzzy for me, its not an area I've really researched thoroughly (since i don't have an auto and it doesn't make much difference to me) but its something you might want to dig into.
Good info Jay. The reason I said it like that was because the person on the post before made it seem like they would actually loss power from upgrading the camshaft. I know what you're talking about though about the powerbands and such. I'll look more into it.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
A fuel system upgrade is a decent chunk of change but is it worth it to upgrade everything on a motor that isnt boosted? From some of the poss I have read I thought the popular concensus was that our motors dont really need more fuel unless you were going to boost. What about a head port and polish and valve job. I got mine done for $310 included port and polish, 3 way valve job, resurfaced head, Felpro top end gasket set and new head bolts. I did the removal and install myself so I saved myself a big chunk of change there. I do notice a difference and i still have the stock exhaust all the way back to the muffler(although that is about to change) and I am really happy with the power increase. Also wouldnt a turbo kit cause some of the same stresses on the motor on a higher milage car? Granted probably not to the same extent as nitrous but would there still be the possiblity to cause some kind of issue?
Michael Woolever wrote:A fuel system upgrade is a decent chunk of change but is it worth it to upgrade everything on a motor that isnt boosted? From some of the poss I have read I thought the popular concensus was that our motors dont really need more fuel unless you were going to boost. What about a head port and polish and valve job. I got mine done for $310 included port and polish, 3 way valve job, resurfaced head, Felpro top end gasket set and new head bolts. I did the removal and install myself so I saved myself a big chunk of change there. I do notice a difference and i still have the stock exhaust all the way back to the muffler(although that is about to change) and I am really happy with the power increase. Also wouldnt a turbo kit cause some of the same stresses on the motor on a higher milage car? Granted probably not to the same extent as nitrous but would there still be the possiblity to cause some kind of issue?
All motor...depending on what you've done. More than likely, no you don't need to upgrade your fuel system.
The reason you saved so much compared to company prices is because they rebuild the head with new parts (springs, retainers, valves etc), they flowbench the heads to optimal flow and also use the top professional machines to port the head.
Boost will cause some stress but you have to remember, just because your car is set for 7 psi, doesn't mean you will drive all day at 7 psi. You're full boost only occurs at full throttle, if your cruising and not being a mad man, you're going to be barely into boost levels. Nitrous on the other hand, you have to be at full throttle, you have to have the right amount of fuel and it directly effects your pistons.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Oh I understand the differences between what I had done and what is being done to the heads that these shops are selling I didnt meant to come across that they were over charging. Basicly was I was saying is that our fuel systems are pretty good(although i wish they had a more atractive fule rail for the 2200) as they are. That his money would be better spent on something else like a pnp or something like that especially since he is concerned with the longevity of his motor with the use of NOS.
Well, as long as my car remains all motor, are threre any air/fuel bolt-ons that are worth doing?
"Why drive a blue oval when you can drive a red arrowhead?"
Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:Quote:
Your camshafts have no relation to your transmission.
Um, actually Adam, you'll probably be surprised to learn that cams are related to an automatic transmission. Your torque converter has a set stall speed, which determines how high you can rev the engine while powerbraking, as well as how high it will ultimately shift (outside of computer programming). The old muscle car guys always had to be careful to match their cam to their torque converter, since the cam determines the powerband and the converter determines how well the trans can stay in it. To be honest this is an area thats a littlle fuzzy for me, its not an area I've really researched thoroughly (since i don't have an auto and it doesn't make much difference to me) but its something you might want to dig into.
Yep, your right. If yourt car is all low end power, you dont need a crazy converter, because if you launch at 3000, and your powerband is 2500-4000, you dont have too mutch of your powerband left to use. Now if your motor is all top end power (for evample 3500-7000) and, a 2300 stall would make the car be a slug off the line untill it hits the powerband. For the top end power, a higher TQ convertewr is a must. For low end, a 2800 would be exceptible. Mind oyu I'm talking in hot rod terms here.
PS: The heads, intake, and cam on the camaro have decent low end but have a wicked top end Hp, so the 3000rpm converter I have suits it well. Dyno the car (real or butt dyno) to tell it's powerband, then go from there.
1971 camaro 427 --- here!
Stock... and loving every minute of it.
